hrcslam

Not sure if this is allowed here, but here in Phoenix on Craigslist, there is a smoking deal for a street twin McLeod clutch set up. So for who ever is in the market for one here in AZ it is worth your while to check out.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/5144007289.html

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

That is super cheap, I paid $1k for a used one quite a few years back!

BALLSS

it would be worth shipping at that $

can't see in the pics but it appears the shims that space the bottom disc from floater plate are missing. McLeod can send those

Nostang

iTrader: (4)

Best clutch I ever had. Broke my output shaft on the trans with it! Great deal even if it needs shims.

hrcslam

Well, my current clutch is starting to slip so.....

I'm not sure if it's the same guy, but I bought a Street Twin off Craigslist yesterday for $300! Score! Has all the shims and everything looks good except 1 clutch looks slightly worn. I'll Mic it out tomorrow. The balance weight isn't there, but I'm gonna have it balance matched to my old clutch anyway so no big deal.

It did not come with the master cylinder so I have to figure that part out. I really don't want to mess with the master cylinder or spend the $ on the McLeod one, but if I have to I will. But first I'm going to try a smaller slave cylinder to get the Slave throw to the right amount.

hrcslam

This is the car it was supposed to go in, but he went with the LS1 set up T56. This is a twin turbo LT1 in a Nash Rambler! Badass ride! He bought the clutch 8 years ago lightly used, but couldn't find a steel bellhousing at the time for the LT1 clutch. So he went with an LS1 steel bellhousing and clutch set up. He sat on the clutch (preserved) for 8 years in case he needed it. He decided he didn't.







Here's the clutch.

BALLSS

$300 for that clutch was a great deal. McLeod has changed the Street Twin over the years. Yours has bolts vs studs for the floater plate straps. No big deal IMHO

Both floater & PP stands have spacers on them but mine also uses "shims" (thin washers) on top of the spacers for the floater. They come in a few thickness (.005, .010, .020 IIRC) and McLeod uses whatever amount of each to get .022 gap between floater plate & bottom disc when floater plate bolts (or nuts in my case) are TQ to spec (see pic). Every clutch is slightly different so the amount of these shims will be different on each one. McLeod can send you a set of these shims if you find you need them or they were not included in the used kit. I got a set when I lost one shim at some point when I went to re-install the clutch once.

you can easily check if you need any shims on bench. Just put bottom disc on and TQ floater plate over it. You want .022 gap +/- .00x

hrcslam

Thanks for the info. The shims are there, under the spacers. But I have access to pealable shim stacks at work so I'll use those if I need to. I'm going to e-mail McLeod if the disc is out of spec (.230" minimum IIRC) to see if I can replace the disc only.

hrcslam

So I got everything measured. Top disc is .300", bottom disc is .305", floater to bottom disc clearance is .022". Awesome! More pics. Someone was smart enough to punch mark the balance points, the blue stripe paint had come off mostly and the balance marks punched in really helps me out.

BALLSS

you absolutely scored on that for $300

you can try and see if your stock hydraulics work although McLeod says the 13/16" is needed. You can buy the 13/16" MC from them (Summit, Jegs, etc)

you will still be WAY $ ahead even if you have to buy the larger MC

SpeedJunkee

Killer find. I spent $1500 on my street twin when I bought mine new.

hrcslam

McLeod specs throwout bearing throw at .500" minimum. My 3/4 master and 1 inch slave puts me at .472" (1.31:1 ratio for the shift fork). Ugh. Their 13/16 Slave brings that up to .554" with the 1" slave. Or I could use a 15/16 Slave cylinder and get the throw to .537".... There is also a 7/8 Master cylinder option available, but that comes out to .642" throw and I'm worried about fork to PP clearance at that point.

I found a 15/16 Slave cylinder from a Fiero, looks to be the same mounting pattern, but I'm not sure on the size. They are $30 or so, and I'll need a quick disconnect to threaded fitting adapter, but I don't know what size. I'll be messing with that for the next few weeks. If I get it to work somewhat easily, I'll post a write up on it. The fiero slave has a bleeder screw too. Nice little bonus if it works.

hrcslam

The timing was perfect. I'm pretty happy with the purchase. There's no way I'd spend $1500 on a clutch for a $1500 car, my car's pretty beat up. But $300 is less than I spent on the LT1 stock replacement kit + McLeod dual friction disc I'm currently running. My current set up works good. Bite is great, but it does chatter if I try to drive like a grandma. It lasted about 25K miles and now it's starting to slip (if I touch the clutch pedal it slips, but full release still holds). For $350 listed, I couldn't pass it up. The seller came down to $300 on his own I was willing to pay the $350, but he said to put the $50 towards the master cylinder. Very nice guy, with a killer car!

BALLSS

anything larger than 13/16 will be to big for a stock slave and over extend the PP, likely driving the fork into the PP. Your math is right, obviously if McLeod felt stock MC bore would work well with the stock hydraulics for the pull version of their Twin they would not include the larger MC in the kit...and sell it for less $.

Now can you find a alternate MC 13/16 that works from the math side, sure but you also need the orientation of the MC to mount right on your clutch pedal

FWIW when I installed the Twin I found by extending the adjustable MC out so the clutch would disengage...it caused the fork to buzz the PP. McLeod said "some" LT1 cars experience this and to cut about a "washer" thickness from the base of the "T" the fork pivots on (pic). Solved my problem. Keep that tip in your back pocket if you face the same issue. Once I cut the T, it worked perfect as I could adjust the MC rod out far enough to get full disengagement

hrcslam

I'm doing the trim of the fork base with the swap. I'm not even going try it without it. It's common enough that I won't even risk it.

I know the exention is an issue. The clearance between the PP and bell housing doesn't allow for too much throw. The smaller slave gets me there. If I shorten the fork base, I don't have to pull the trans again if I run into issues..... Hopefully.

I've been doing a lot of research. Seen one of your old threads too and read through it, thanks!

If the Fiero slave works out, I'll do a write up so others can do it too. The addition of the bleeder screw would be nice. And I think I found a female quick disconnect coupling that works with the stock line. If that's the case then swaps and bleeding becomes a lot easier (no roll pin!) and cheaper. I hope it works. If not I'll spend the money on the McLeod master cylinder. I'm willing to eat the $50ish it'll cost to try the Fiero slave cylinder.

BALLSS

I tried to cut the T with a cut off wheel on my Dremal.....didn't even scratch it. Took it to a machine shop. Guy said "that is very hard metal" but he had the tooling to cut it clean

You may be fine without cutting....but yeah if you don't and find you need to....tranny has to come out far enough to get to it to remove which is basically pulling the tranny

Good luck with the economy slave concept.

It will be very helpful if your MC has an adjustable rod if you are using the stock MC

on first start up push clutch in very slow until fully depressed. If your fork does make contact with PP you will hear/feel it big time. What you don't want to do is push clutch all the way in, start car and find the fork is jammed against the PP....and you rip the teeth right off the starter

hrcslam

Thanks for the info. I'll take it to the machine shop with me when I drop of the clutches for balance and see what they can do. I was told to take .050" off, is that about what you did? Half a 1/10th of an inch?

BALLSS

mine was closer to .100. Look at the pic I posted to see the difference

.050 may be enough, it varies from car to car. some need nothing

I didn't find out I had a problem until I started adjusting the MC rod out to get full disengagement. In 1/2 turn increments and the pedal would rise slightly I started buzzing the PP before I had disengagement. In fact it was hard to even get in gear. At that time I did not know about the "cut T down" mod. I emailed McLeod tech and they quickly replied to cut the T down "about a washer thickness".

I had the shop take off .100 and was able to adjust the pedal out enough to now get disengagement. IDK if in my case .050 would be enough. Maybe it would have been. I felt if I took to much off I could just use a small washer under the T to raise it some if I needed.

hrcslam

Good point. I'll have them take .100" off.

BALLSS

since you are electing to do it from the get go it really is just a guess as you may need nothing, .050 or .100

Where did you hear the measurement .050"?

McLeod just told me "a washers thickness" ....although that could be .050, .100 or whatever

Your Fiero slave idea will also factor into this. I assume you have done the math and measured the length of slave rod vs stock and if all that measures out you may or may not need to cut the T.

Obviously cutting it .050 or .100 it won't cause any negative effects even if you didn't need to in the first place. Even if it did you can just add a washer under the T where IIRC you would grind down 2 sides of the washer so it would sit within the 2 sides of the tranny case casting the T sits in