CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads...
#1
CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads...
I will be removing a head to replace a damaged valve, so i am thinking about throwing a cam in since things will be torn down.
Assuming I have stock heads with beehive springs, what could I expect from these either of these two cams in terms of performance. I curretly have 301RWHP and 326RWTQ.
I will eventually port the heads when money allows.
Thanks
Assuming I have stock heads with beehive springs, what could I expect from these either of these two cams in terms of performance. I curretly have 301RWHP and 326RWTQ.
I will eventually port the heads when money allows.
Thanks
#2
10 Second Club
iTrader: (63)
I ran the 503 for a couple years. With a decent (but not full-on) port and polish on the heads it made 336 RWHP and similar torque. No big shakes, but good for a best of 12.48 ET in a full weight car. Stock sized valves, MAC mid-lengths, and a Blow-master exhaust. I ran it with comp Pro-Magnum 1.6 roller rockers and it made more than enough lift to feed the motor since I keep stock size valves and did not get really serious with the heads. With better heads, bigger valves, and longtubes/true duals it could have made a good bit more power.
It sounded very good FWIW.
It sounded very good FWIW.
#3
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I have a friend in town with a 97 ws6 and he's using a CC306 on a stock head. Motor made 350 to the wheels with a few bolt ons anf an Ed wright tune.( Ed is the man.) This is more of a nitrous cam but still good for N/A and on a 112lsa it still idles very well.
#4
Staging Lane
Buddy of mine ran a 306 on a 97Z(30th Aniv. btw). It was pretty vicious. He didn't have much else done. A4/stall/4.10's/CAI/125 dry shot. The long and short of it is that the sucker put a 10.9 down with a 125-shot. I've also heard it's much more of a M6 cam. You usually have to run a pretty stout stall on an auto.
#6
Originally Posted by wrd1972
I am not intereded in the CC306. I do not want to rev my stock engine to 6500 RPM for risk of spinning bearings.
It is down to either the CC305 or the CC503 so I can rev to 6300 RPM max and maintain good brakes and not have excess idle lope.
It is down to either the CC305 or the CC503 so I can rev to 6300 RPM max and maintain good brakes and not have excess idle lope.
#7
if you are running stock bearings you really dont want to rev past 6100 because they have been know to spinn after that. Also i have a cc503 cam and a madz28 tune. it has not been dynoed yet but the gains are very noticable, mostly above 4000 rpm.
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#8
11 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by fastformula309
if you are running stock bearings you really dont want to rev past 6100 because they have been know to spinn after that. Also i have a cc503 cam and a madz28 tune. it has not been dynoed yet but the gains are very noticable, mostly above 4000 rpm.
#9
10 Second Club
iTrader: (63)
[QUOTE=speed_demon24] 6500 RPM's is fine on the stock bottom ends, there are people reving them to 7K on the stock bottom end with no probems too. QUOTE]
Not in my experience, the experience of my friends, and what I've read broh. 2 bolt LT1's like to spin rod bearings up in that range. Plus, walk cranks, float valves, etc. etc. etc.
I spin my LT4 to 6700 without any concern, but it is a 4-bolt splayed cap, all forged, ARP rod-bolted, AFR rev-kitted, drag strip motor. My previous, milder LT1's? I would set the rev limiter cut them off at 6300 and NO MORE. In fact, due to their powerband (or lack thereof, really) I would have them shifting by 6100.
wrd1972: keep a stock shortblock LT1 at 6100 and below and you will be happy because your motor will stay together.
Not in my experience, the experience of my friends, and what I've read broh. 2 bolt LT1's like to spin rod bearings up in that range. Plus, walk cranks, float valves, etc. etc. etc.
I spin my LT4 to 6700 without any concern, but it is a 4-bolt splayed cap, all forged, ARP rod-bolted, AFR rev-kitted, drag strip motor. My previous, milder LT1's? I would set the rev limiter cut them off at 6300 and NO MORE. In fact, due to their powerband (or lack thereof, really) I would have them shifting by 6100.
wrd1972: keep a stock shortblock LT1 at 6100 and below and you will be happy because your motor will stay together.
#11
I would go with the CC305 on a 112l/s. Or get something in the 224/230 range on the duration and at least 550-565lift, 110-112L/S, with the 1.6's. I had a setup like that with ported LT1 castings, stock valves and made about 400rwhp (11.66@117mph 3600lbs raceweight, 3.42 gears). Later Clint
#13
Originally Posted by wrd1972
So are these everbodys average shift points:
CC305 6200RPM
CC503 6500RPM
CC305 6200RPM
CC503 6500RPM
#15
The 114L/S will have a little wider powerband and a better idle. The 112L/S will make more HP with a little more lope. I would go with the CC305 112L/S, I run the CC306 112L/S. Later Clint
#16
My car just put down 346hp with a CC305, th350, 4100stall, and basicly every bolton imaginable. The car went 11.9 last year and I have droped 200lb+ from the car for this year. The 346hp is up from probably 330 or so from last year. I have yet to make it to the track, but im hoping to go 11.high6's
#17
Originally Posted by foggedz
My car just put down 346hp with a CC305, th350, 4100stall, and basicly every bolton imaginable. The car went 11.9 last year and I have droped 200lb+ from the car for this year. The 346hp is up from probably 330 or so from last year. I have yet to make it to the track, but im hoping to go 11.high6's
What springs are you running?
#18
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[QUOTE=TWS]
I have a fresh stock bottom end lt1, cc306, stage 2 heads and spin it to 6700 with my limiter at 6800. Been doing it for almost 5k miles and it is doing fine.
Originally Posted by speed_demon24
6500 RPM's is fine on the stock bottom ends, there are people reving them to 7K on the stock bottom end with no probems too. QUOTE]
Not in my experience, the experience of my friends, and what I've read broh. 2 bolt LT1's like to spin rod bearings up in that range. Plus, walk cranks, float valves, etc. etc. etc.
I spin my LT4 to 6700 without any concern, but it is a 4-bolt splayed cap, all forged, ARP rod-bolted, AFR rev-kitted, drag strip motor. My previous, milder LT1's? I would set the rev limiter cut them off at 6300 and NO MORE. In fact, due to their powerband (or lack thereof, really) I would have them shifting by 6100.
wrd1972: keep a stock shortblock LT1 at 6100 and below and you will be happy because your motor will stay together.
Not in my experience, the experience of my friends, and what I've read broh. 2 bolt LT1's like to spin rod bearings up in that range. Plus, walk cranks, float valves, etc. etc. etc.
I spin my LT4 to 6700 without any concern, but it is a 4-bolt splayed cap, all forged, ARP rod-bolted, AFR rev-kitted, drag strip motor. My previous, milder LT1's? I would set the rev limiter cut them off at 6300 and NO MORE. In fact, due to their powerband (or lack thereof, really) I would have them shifting by 6100.
wrd1972: keep a stock shortblock LT1 at 6100 and below and you will be happy because your motor will stay together.
I have a fresh stock bottom end lt1, cc306, stage 2 heads and spin it to 6700 with my limiter at 6800. Been doing it for almost 5k miles and it is doing fine.
#20
Originally Posted by wrd1972
Are you still on stock heads?
What springs are you running?
What springs are you running?
Stock heads. I cant remember the springs I just, but i believe it was a Comp Cams dual alve spring. Also, I shift my car at 6400.