march underdrive pulley
#2
are they worht anyhting? or are they just a waste like ISSF says? I mean, slowing down the PS pump, the AC, and ALT, has to do something? right?
I'd like to hear about the rresults from people who have done them.
I'd like to hear about the rresults from people who have done them.
#4
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
The AC shuts off at WOT the alt. is only capable of sapping a couple HP, on vehicles where pullies are worthwhile it is slowing the WP that delivers the biggest gain and well that does not happen for the LT1.
I am convinced that my AC does not kick out at WOT. Even according to the datamaster AC reading.
#6
11 Second Club
iTrader: (88)
I have the AC deleted out, so that is not a factor on me. I have a 34% Underdrive Crank Pulley, and the car will get up in RPM's faster. It does spin stuff slower, but that's only at idle. Everything is normal when I drive it. Someone said something about the Water Pump, that won't change at all, since it's driven off the Cam.
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#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by the_merv
I have the AC deleted out, so that is not a factor on me. I have a 34% Underdrive Crank Pulley, and the car will get up in RPM's faster. It does spin stuff slower, but that's only at idle. Everything is normal when I drive it. Someone said something about the Water Pump, that won't change at all, since it's driven off the Cam.
Were you dropped on your head as a child? As I said the WP is where gains can come from with UD pullies and that will have no effect on this engine.
When I do a new balancer I will go with a lighter UD one just because I can at the same time as a truely useful mod. The slower turning of the PS pump stands a good chance of increasing it's life on cammed cars where rpms are much higher than stock too.
Honestly I would worry about the effect the piggyback thing has on the effectivness of the damper and they add weight.
#10
I was expecting you to say something like that 96Caprice. But have you used one? have anything to show that the piggyback is crap and not "hear / say"? I don't mean to insult you like you do to others, but got somethin' to back it up? Slower driven Accesorry's will always make more power. HOW much power is the question. 2hp? 4ftlbs tq? or does it mainly inprove part throttle responce, and let it rev more freely due to the less drag?
Think it's 100% needed to say something like that? I will agree that his statement was a bit confused. as the stuff will spin slower all the time, but you will mainly notice it at idle. Anyways.
The real reason I ask is because my idle is bumped due to the GMPP 845, and the soon to be installed 3.73's(damn it! Now I need a reluctor!) will have everything spining faster at any givin MPH. I was thinking about buying the automotive specality's one, and then swaping them at the track to see what happens. Ya know? a little same day testing. I plan on doing the same with a FIRK, and "Raiss" style homebrew.
Think it's 100% needed to say something like that? I will agree that his statement was a bit confused. as the stuff will spin slower all the time, but you will mainly notice it at idle. Anyways.
The real reason I ask is because my idle is bumped due to the GMPP 845, and the soon to be installed 3.73's(damn it! Now I need a reluctor!) will have everything spining faster at any givin MPH. I was thinking about buying the automotive specality's one, and then swaping them at the track to see what happens. Ya know? a little same day testing. I plan on doing the same with a FIRK, and "Raiss" style homebrew.
#11
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
I questioned wether the piggyback would ghurt dampening I have a concern there and made no statement that it defenetely or even probably would.
Far as the insult merv is much like you, just wough knowledge to sound like he knows what he is talking about and lead people astray, you are a little brighter though and have learned a lot over the past months.
To better put it in perspective he runs Bosch platinum 2s .
Look at his post he acts like I said the UD would slow the WP, strike one.
He says it will spin the accessories slower but only at idle , that's two.
Three is the fact he is constantly offering "info" of questionable value of just plain ignorant.
Look at his other posts and see what I mean. Hell within the last day or two he posted that he thought a .030 overbore was running the cylinder walls thin.
Far as the insult merv is much like you, just wough knowledge to sound like he knows what he is talking about and lead people astray, you are a little brighter though and have learned a lot over the past months.
To better put it in perspective he runs Bosch platinum 2s .
Look at his post he acts like I said the UD would slow the WP, strike one.
He says it will spin the accessories slower but only at idle , that's two.
Three is the fact he is constantly offering "info" of questionable value of just plain ignorant.
Look at his other posts and see what I mean. Hell within the last day or two he posted that he thought a .030 overbore was running the cylinder walls thin.
#13
Originally Posted by the_merv
Listen ********, we aren't all pros like you, so eat a dick, and have a nice day. Glad I can go to Iraq and get shot at for ******* like you...
whats wrong with bosch +2 spark plugs?
Anywho, I was more so wondering if you had a site or a graph, or testing, or something. Yea, I've learnd alot in the past few months, and one of them is to base knowlage off many opinions, and facts provided.
#15
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Run the math on this once, 140 amps at 13.5 volts is 2.6hp and that would be only if the alternator was being called on for full power, let us round up for the rotating weight and such and call it 4hp total there. UD that 34% and you get back what 1.3hp. I have never seen figures on how much the PS uses but generally when deep in the throttle you are not doing a whole lot of steering so it wont be a huge amount a few hp to turn the pump, under serious streeting demands I would think it draws a good bit given the high hydraulic pressures involved.
How about this most guys find somewhere between .1-.2 at the track and 2mph or less from completely pulling the belt, how can UDing it a little be so whorthwhile then. My opinion is to wait till you want to do a damper and then go ahead and get one that is UD as well but given the facts I have offered there is just no way it can possibly be such a great mod all on it's own.
I will say that a cammed car will not have the charging issues a stocker could with an OD and I already said the reduced speeds could help accessories live.
Road race cars can benifit from slower PS rpms by reducing overheating of the PS system.
If you read what I am saying I am giving facts and potential benifit but they are not the ones people expect which is the source of argument.
How about this most guys find somewhere between .1-.2 at the track and 2mph or less from completely pulling the belt, how can UDing it a little be so whorthwhile then. My opinion is to wait till you want to do a damper and then go ahead and get one that is UD as well but given the facts I have offered there is just no way it can possibly be such a great mod all on it's own.
I will say that a cammed car will not have the charging issues a stocker could with an OD and I already said the reduced speeds could help accessories live.
Road race cars can benifit from slower PS rpms by reducing overheating of the PS system.
If you read what I am saying I am giving facts and potential benifit but they are not the ones people expect which is the source of argument.