95 LT1

whats up fellas.. i got a 95 T/A what is undergoing surgery. ans so fa these are my plans.. MSD opti,MSD wires,NGK plugs,160 thermo,MAC midlenghts headers and ORY,i have ready have a SLP loudmouth and SLP CAI.now heres where im having a problem... the question that has been asked 1,000,000,000 times... what cam would go good with those mod and what ALL do i need to replace in my heads? people told me that with most cams can use my stock heads, then people said just 1.6 rockers, im totally blind when it comes to cams...this car is a M6 and is my daily driver, i plan on also gettin 3.73 but thats not set in stone. i live in CA but im not worried about smog issues.. i want somethnig that can give me good power.i dont want a cam that sounds mean but i only get 10 hp and 15 pounds of tq

Vendetta

Welcome aboard, glad to have ya!

Where are you looking to go with your car? It's important to have an overall direction of what kind of car you want, otherwise you'll end up wasting money by replacing mismatched parts later on. N/A? Daily driver or strictly track car? Do you care about drivability, etc etc...

harvickgm

iTrader: (10)

or you can talk to LE or AI... and tell them your goals and they can set you up with heads and cam or just cam if you want... they will help you acheive what you want... i have heard nothing but good things from them...

Welcome Aboard....

redneck01

iTrader: (3)

cam only...comp cams 503 cam...rocker arms, comp beehive valvespring kit=around 340 rwhp and with sticky tires (and good driving) low 12's. all this with like 14/20 mpg. oh and get 4.10's for the six speed. cruising in overdrive you won't even notice them.

nhra_crazy

iTrader: (86)

Welcome ...I suggest te LE2 kit. I installed one on my friends 95 Ta m6. Went 11.80 today at the track with mail order tune and bolt ons.. Drives very nice to the shore 2HR ride!!

95 LT1

i have no big plans ... just my daily driver,im gonna keep it N/A.. with that said i dont want to KILL he streetabliy of my car. thats the reason im not getting 4.10's EVERY one i talked to about it says its a bad idea... they say the driveabilty sucks with 4.10...

MrCadillac

I personally think the 503(224* duration) is a bit large for stock heads. Something more like 218* will work better, as it won't sacrifice so much torque. the 502 is about all the stock heads can really flow. More than that, and all your doing is pushing the power band higher, without really making more power. Keep in mind that one of the biggest problems with car modding is over caming. If it was me, I would start off with the new valve springs and 1.6 roller rockers, and see how that feels. Then step up to a bigger cam, if you feel you need more. Your gonna need valve springs and rockers anyways(pretty sure stock rockers slot will bind, and break the rocker stud.) an intake gasket kit, the timing cover gasket, and the opti gasket. The stock lifters can be reused, just check them well. not sure about pushrods. I think they can be reused with self aligning rockers.

I agree that the 4.10's are the gears you want. or maybe even a bigger #, like 4.56's. 3.73's are the ones for autos(due to the 3.06 1st gear, and .70 OD). with your .50 (double)OD, and 2.85 1st gear (thats wrong, please correct me) makes them a better match. your stock 3.42's ->3.73's isn't gonna be a huge difference.

MrCadillac

and they have 4.10's, in a stick? Every impala guy with a T56 says 4.10's are about as high as you want them, and that 4.56's are really the way to go.

4.10's in the auto are plain sick, the starting gear is amazing.

if you wanna know what 3.73's will feel like vs 3.42's, put tires on that are 2" smaller in the rear. like you you have 27" tires, go with 25" and see what it's like. it's only about a 10% difference.

95 LT1

since i have my motor already out of the car, i just wanted to do it all at once...i dont wanna just do the heads and then put the motor back in and 2 months later i want a cam...its alot of work doing the cam while the motor is in the car. Hmmmm i just hear that 4.10 are shitty for driving..

95 LT1

this cam was suggested. what do you think?

CCA-07-466-8
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,800 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 276
Advertised Duration: 268 int./276 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.570 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.565 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.570 int./0.565 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 113
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Computer Controlled Compatible: Yes
Grind Number: 268XFI HR13
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: Requires exhaust upgrade and aftermarket computer chip.

Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 268/276, Lift .570/.565, Chevy, Small Block, Each

95 LT1

and this one was suggested by comp cams.

Operating Range: 1000-5000 RPM
Duration Advertised: 252° Intake / 264° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 202° Intake / 212° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.6 Rockers: .550'' Intake / .546'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 113°

MrCadillac

isn't 202* STOCK?? If it were me, I would never settle for more than 112* LSA. I was reading this one guys way to pick a cam(Forget the site, but he seamed to know what he was talking about, on OTHER stuff), and he said, "to pick LSA, you take all the LSA's you have seen run in your application, put them on a dart board, and throw the dart... thats how important it is." wow, I donno if I believe that!

Anyways. I don't see how 4.10's are such a bitch to deal with. you have a 2.65 first gear(right?? I looked it up since my last post), and a .50 (double) overdrive?? how could that possibley make for bad driveability? with 3.42's, how often do you use 6th gear?? seriously, how many? and at what speed is this? (I really wanna know!)

Here, take a look at this! http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html

with 4.11's, in 6th, with 26" tires, you would go 75mph, at 2,000 rpms....

Bowtie Boy

Is there a reason why your going with mids in particular? They dont give that great of gains...

MrCadillac

mids? sure they do... I love the mid tube headers that have been acting as my bedroom door stop... big gain there!

95 LT1

well mid's will give more power than manifoldsand it has all the egr/AIR fi`ttings.

ToxicTA

Here's what you can expect from running 4.10s or 4.56 gears with a M6. Factory 3.42 @74 MPH 1750 RPM then I changed to 4.10s and @74 MPH I ran 2100 RPM. I since replaced those with 4.56 gears and now run 2340 RPM @74 MPH and still get 18 MPG highway and in town averaged. It's driven hard and with those numbers I do not see any issues with a daily driver except having to wipe the smile off your face everytime you step on the gas.

The change from 3.42 to 4.10 is 19% 5th gear 6200 RPM 140 MPH
The change from 3.42 to 4.56 is 33%

MrCadillac

my point exactly! If anything, drivability with 3.42's would be worse, cuz the 4.56's are easier on the clutch, and take off, and hills.... am I wrong to think that? ok, so maybe you have to shift sooner, but you can just skip shift like GM wanted ya too.

95 LT1

haha well 4.10's it is.. now i just have to find the right cam...i think the one comp suggested is a little to mellow.. i dont think it would give good gains in hp/tq

Vendetta

That's a REALLY mild cam. Like close to stock mild, I think the only thing different is the LSA. Go bigger, I was always a fan of the CC 224/230 cam for bolt-on NA cars with stock heads.

And go longtube.

MrCadillac

I agree, that cam is stock mild. the lsa is tighter, with more lift... big deal. I would add atleast 10* intake duration. so around a 210*(crane 227) duration would be the smallest, more like 214*(GM 845) would be what you want. Don't over cam it! But, I like to build torque, fer my tanks.