Benefits of Internal Balancing
12-31-2006, 06:29 PM
#1
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Benefits of Internal Balancing I am in the planing stages of my 355 build. I know what pistons and rods i will be getting my question is what kind of gain or advantage would i get from also getting a new crank and having them all balanced instead of just buying the pistons and rods and using my stock crank. I wont be running any type of FI or spinning past 6700.
12-31-2006, 07:17 PM
#3
u can buy all of your parts or use some u already have if there good parts.take tham to a machine shop and have it balanced as a system.there is less stress on the parts and they work together as a system not aginst one another.most of the time if u r going to have a high reving engine it is a must so the parts dont come apart.and rattle loose.it will also reduce friction and ware on your parts.
12-31-2006, 09:32 PM
#7
I got mine Balanced when I re-built mine. It cost me $400, and it's within grams..
What they did was take every piece of the Rotating Assembly(Crank, Rods, Pistons, Bearings) weigh them, then number them(#1, #3, etc) to where it is close. Then they put counter weights on the Crank simulating the Rods and Pistons, spin it, and in my case, added weight to the Crank. I used a factory 350 Crank.
It is recommended for high-revving Engine like mentioned before, and you can tell a difference when you drive a car that is balanced, and one that isn't. Throttle response is immediate, and the RPM's are smooth and quick. It doesn't stay in gear long, goes right through them. I have it tuned to shift at 6100RPM, Limiter is at 6500RPM, and when you get into it, it goes. I have decent tires on it too, and it will spin them no problems..
If you got the chance to do it, get it done. The car is so much better.
What they did was take every piece of the Rotating Assembly(Crank, Rods, Pistons, Bearings) weigh them, then number them(#1, #3, etc) to where it is close. Then they put counter weights on the Crank simulating the Rods and Pistons, spin it, and in my case, added weight to the Crank. I used a factory 350 Crank.
It is recommended for high-revving Engine like mentioned before, and you can tell a difference when you drive a car that is balanced, and one that isn't. Throttle response is immediate, and the RPM's are smooth and quick. It doesn't stay in gear long, goes right through them. I have it tuned to shift at 6100RPM, Limiter is at 6500RPM, and when you get into it, it goes. I have decent tires on it too, and it will spin them no problems..
If you got the chance to do it, get it done. The car is so much better.
Last edited by the_merv; 12-31-2006 at 11:23 PM.
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01-01-2007, 11:13 AM
#9
Whether or not you get a new crank doesn't have anything to do with the need for balancing. If you change the pistons or rods, then the stock balance job is no longer valid. You can have it balanced with the stock or aftermarket crank.
Balancing an engine will not make more power or give it more response. Balancing is mainly a reliability step that will make bearings and the crank last longer. The higher you rev the engine, the more critical the balance is.
Many shops will balance to under 20 grams and call it good. I got mine down to less than .2 grams, which is way overkill for my engine, especially since I don't rev mine past 6500 rpm.
Mike
Balancing an engine will not make more power or give it more response. Balancing is mainly a reliability step that will make bearings and the crank last longer. The higher you rev the engine, the more critical the balance is.
Many shops will balance to under 20 grams and call it good. I got mine down to less than .2 grams, which is way overkill for my engine, especially since I don't rev mine past 6500 rpm.
Mike
