SBC 18 or 15 degree heads...
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SBC 18 or 15 degree heads...
So, I was thinking of ways to bring an old stock displacement LT1 up to gen3 zone. As most of you know, one of the major advantages of the LS1 is the higher-flowing cylinder head design. The LS1 has 18 degree heads correct? So why not throw some Gen1 18 or 15 degree heads and convert them for LT1 use? My questions are... at what point does the different valve angle help performance? Is it one of those "only if you rev it to the moon" kinda things? or does it help across the powerband? And what kind of issues am I going to run into with the intake manifold and headers? Any opinions are welcome!
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Originally Posted by Ls1Bait
The reverse flow cooling really makes it hard to put gen 1 heads on these motors. There are some people that have done it, they will chime in.
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I would stick with a good 23* head, RHS, Dart etc...You can use conventional LT1 type stuff to make them work.
For a 15* or 18* head it requires alot of queer parts to make them work. Like:
Pistons
Valvetrain
Rocker arms
intake
Custom made/fabbed headers
Expensive brain damage above!!
David
For a 15* or 18* head it requires alot of queer parts to make them work. Like:
Pistons
Valvetrain
Rocker arms
intake
Custom made/fabbed headers
Expensive brain damage above!!
David
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Originally Posted by the_merv
I have only seen 18°..
During the development stage, Trick Flow engineers determined that the valve angles needed to change from 15° to 13.5
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Originally Posted by the_merv
I got 18° from my research. That's one of the advantages over the LT1. Then again I have heard of 15° also from somewhere..
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Originally Posted by 1997bird
The standard LS1/LS2 has a 15* valve angle head. Trick Flow came out with a 215cc 13.5* higher flowing version. ET Performance came up with a 11* valve angle high flow head in a 210cc,225cc,240cc,255cc, and 265cc runners. The LS7 heads have a 12* valve angle to them. The only one that I am not 100% positive on is the L92 heads. I do believe that they share the LS7 valve angle of 12*.
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
I would stick with a good 23* head, RHS, Dart etc...You can use conventional LT1 type stuff to make them work.
For a 15* or 18* head it requires alot of queer parts to make them work. Like:
Pistons
Valvetrain
Rocker arms
intake
Custom made/fabbed headers
Expensive brain damage above!!
David
For a 15* or 18* head it requires alot of queer parts to make them work. Like:
Pistons
Valvetrain
Rocker arms
intake
Custom made/fabbed headers
Expensive brain damage above!!
David
Originally Posted by LSXNV
if you want to keep the stock displacement and run large heads, a larger cam would be the only way to go. the trade off is torque. but atleast you get a small block that revs like a motorcycle.
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First if your not going to go over 7200, forget the different valve angle and forget a solid roller... You'd be wasting your time IMHO as both were designed by the aftermarket with racing in mind, and that means 7200+ revs.
There are lots of carb style intakes available for the 18* and 15* heads, you'd just have to convert one to EFI or run a carb. No big deal unless your gonna go sheetmetal which would be $$$$.
There are lots of carb style intakes available for the 18* and 15* heads, you'd just have to convert one to EFI or run a carb. No big deal unless your gonna go sheetmetal which would be $$$$.
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I don't think you really comprehend what you're getting into here (I could be wrong). There have been a few guys that have tried, and less that have completed the project. Typically several thousand in parts and labor and they throw in the towel and sell everything.
You can make an off the shelf intake work with some grinding if I remember right. Afterwards you need custom headers, a way to route the steering linkage, valvetrain specific to your project etc. It turns into big money quick.
If your just doing it to do it and have money by all means please do and show us lots of pics. Other than that, there are alot better (cheaper) ways to make the power
You can make an off the shelf intake work with some grinding if I remember right. Afterwards you need custom headers, a way to route the steering linkage, valvetrain specific to your project etc. It turns into big money quick.
If your just doing it to do it and have money by all means please do and show us lots of pics. Other than that, there are alot better (cheaper) ways to make the power