Ltcc
02-02-2007, 09:29 AM
#1
Ltcc I just got my LTCC setup yesterday. The LS1 coils are waiting at Chevy for me to pick up. Some custom 409 wires are due sometime next week. I'm looking at how to mount the coils right now.
The LTCC instructions seem a bit sparse, I have a few things that will probably need answered. Funny how there's no way to call them, all questions and answers are by email. Not very good support but we'll see how much support I'm going to need. Great looking product, well built.
The LTCC instructions seem a bit sparse, I have a few things that will probably need answered. Funny how there's no way to call them, all questions and answers are by email. Not very good support but we'll see how much support I'm going to need. Great looking product, well built.
02-02-2007, 10:10 AM
#2
Originally Posted by Paul Bell
I just got my LTCC setup yesterday. The LS1 coils are waiting at Chevy for me to pick up. Some custom 409 wires are due sometime next week. I'm looking at how to mount the coils right now.
The LTCC instructions seem a bit sparse, I have a few things that will probably need answered. Funny how there's no way to call them, all questions and answers are by email. Not very good support but we'll see how much support I'm going to need. Great looking product, well built.
The LTCC instructions seem a bit sparse, I have a few things that will probably need answered. Funny how there's no way to call them, all questions and answers are by email. Not very good support but we'll see how much support I'm going to need. Great looking product, well built.
02-12-2007, 09:46 PM
#3
I’ve mounted my coils and control box. No wires yet so I used the LT1 wires, the ends are the same. I fired it up and all appears to be well. The wiring’s not all buttoned up yet but I wanted to finally see this thing run on 8 coils. Sweet, sweet. The car is now covered while we have a bit of snow coming...
I have waiting in the shop: Stefs oil pan, big block pump, UMI K-Frame and upper & lower control arms, a SSBC 13 inch/4 piston brake kit and a Fluidamper.
I have waiting in the shop: Stefs oil pan, big block pump, UMI K-Frame and upper & lower control arms, a SSBC 13 inch/4 piston brake kit and a Fluidamper.
02-12-2007, 11:45 PM
#4
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LTCC is a great product. Have built a set of valve covers that mount the coils like the LS1. At one show someone even asked if it was some version of the LSx.
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02-28-2007, 07:08 AM
#8
Here’s the pics.
I made some brackets that would mount the coils on edge, side by side. These brackets go under the two center valve cover bolts. There’s aluminum tubing spacers I also made to go between the coils. There’s 1/4 inch threaded rod running through everything front to back. The wires are custom from Taylor, 409 Spiro. My original design had the brackets squishing the original valve covers that had the guts removed to clear the 1.6 roller rockers. They were crushing inwards when everything was tightened.
The ‘vett composite covers are stiffer and have positive stops in the bolting system. The bolts are a receiver rod that thread into the head with a 6mm thread in the top for the wide face bolts. These bolts contact wide grommets on top. They have a positive stop into the receiver rods. You can’t over tighten them. Also, the head surface gasket is thin and part of the cover. These things look great and mount beautifully. I highly recommend the swap to these valve covers. There is separate numbers for the left and right as the right one has the PVC and oil filler openings. These covers come with the mounting bolt grommets, cover to head gasket and PVC grommet. You’ll need to buy the rods and wide head bolts. You’ll also need the Corvette PVC hose as the PCV valve goes into the top of the valve cover, not the face.
I made a pair of 6mm studs to use in the center holes with a nut and fender washer. On top of them, I nutted the brackets.
My brackets are almost just right, some time soon, I’ll make more accurate ones and swap them in.
The LTCC box is mounted on rubber washers. The coil ground wires are under the upper rear nut for the 1/4 inch rod. After removing the OEM coil and module, I opened the wire looms and added the LTCC feed wires and made it all pretty after eliminating the OEM plugs.
The LTCC build is very high quality. The coil grounds are dipped in solder after crimping. Bob Bailey certainly makes a well built product. I would say it’s worth the cost and effort.
The motor runs great. Very smooth. I feel that I’ve done a very high tech upgrade. My major problem was that I was always burning plug wires. Problem gone.
I made some brackets that would mount the coils on edge, side by side. These brackets go under the two center valve cover bolts. There’s aluminum tubing spacers I also made to go between the coils. There’s 1/4 inch threaded rod running through everything front to back. The wires are custom from Taylor, 409 Spiro. My original design had the brackets squishing the original valve covers that had the guts removed to clear the 1.6 roller rockers. They were crushing inwards when everything was tightened.
The ‘vett composite covers are stiffer and have positive stops in the bolting system. The bolts are a receiver rod that thread into the head with a 6mm thread in the top for the wide face bolts. These bolts contact wide grommets on top. They have a positive stop into the receiver rods. You can’t over tighten them. Also, the head surface gasket is thin and part of the cover. These things look great and mount beautifully. I highly recommend the swap to these valve covers. There is separate numbers for the left and right as the right one has the PVC and oil filler openings. These covers come with the mounting bolt grommets, cover to head gasket and PVC grommet. You’ll need to buy the rods and wide head bolts. You’ll also need the Corvette PVC hose as the PCV valve goes into the top of the valve cover, not the face.
I made a pair of 6mm studs to use in the center holes with a nut and fender washer. On top of them, I nutted the brackets.
My brackets are almost just right, some time soon, I’ll make more accurate ones and swap them in.
The LTCC box is mounted on rubber washers. The coil ground wires are under the upper rear nut for the 1/4 inch rod. After removing the OEM coil and module, I opened the wire looms and added the LTCC feed wires and made it all pretty after eliminating the OEM plugs.
The LTCC build is very high quality. The coil grounds are dipped in solder after crimping. Bob Bailey certainly makes a well built product. I would say it’s worth the cost and effort.
The motor runs great. Very smooth. I feel that I’ve done a very high tech upgrade. My major problem was that I was always burning plug wires. Problem gone.
Last edited by Paul Bell; 02-28-2007 at 09:08 PM.
02-28-2007, 08:53 AM
#10
Looks good Paul, would be interested in seeing a before/after dynograph just to see if you had any issues with the OBD-II like I did. How does it feel @WOT now compared to before? My LTCC was really choppy all the way to 496rwhp, ditched the ltcc for a new opti and she hit 500 smooth as silk. Never figured out why though.
02-28-2007, 08:40 PM
#12
I don't think there's a differance in the power but overall, it seems smoother. I think it's because the coils are being saturated once every two crank turns rather than one coil eight times every two turns. I also noticed just a hint of hesitation before that's now gone. Overall, the motor definately runs better. I did have a new Opti with just a few thousand miles on it, it always ran the same from day one. My major problem was regularly burning up spark plug wires. Regardless, I thought the whole spark scheme was hokey and with the LTCC system, I'm up to a more modern and reliable system. It looks neat too.
03-01-2007, 08:45 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by -PEPE-
Looks good Paul, would be interested in seeing a before/after dynograph just to see if you had any issues with the OBD-II like I did. How does it feel @WOT now compared to before? My LTCC was really choppy all the way to 496rwhp, ditched the ltcc for a new opti and she hit 500 smooth as silk. Never figured out why though.
03-02-2007, 01:29 AM
#15
I never said that I had a miss or driveability issues. The car ran great with the stock system. My real problem was the burning plug wires. I did say that with the LTCC system, it seems to run better. Maybe the hotter spark has something to do with it.
I'm gonna keep the LTCC system.
I'm gonna keep the LTCC system.
03-26-2007, 09:39 AM
#16
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my comment was directed towards pepe not paul, just to straighten out any confusion if there was some.
Plug wire melting I would contribute largely to outside sources. I've never heard of issues with a hotter spark burning wires, but there's a first time for everything. usually it's header heat. Personally I zip tie mine out of the way.
I put one zip tie loosely around the two wires that go in between each primary and then tighten down another zip tie around the first one vertically to separate the two wires. Then I tighten down the first zip tie to snug everything down. I do of course cut of the ends as they smell nasty if they melt.
hope this helps out
Plug wire melting I would contribute largely to outside sources. I've never heard of issues with a hotter spark burning wires, but there's a first time for everything. usually it's header heat. Personally I zip tie mine out of the way.
I put one zip tie loosely around the two wires that go in between each primary and then tighten down another zip tie around the first one vertically to separate the two wires. Then I tighten down the first zip tie to snug everything down. I do of course cut of the ends as they smell nasty if they melt.
hope this helps out
03-26-2007, 08:48 PM
#17
Originally Posted by v7guy
since the LTCC and the delteq kit both use the opti for the signal to fire the coils if the opti sensors aren't working correctly the car will still run like crap, even with the aftermarket coils. I would wager that if it worked great with a new opti that your opti was sending inaccurate signals to the coils and that's why it was missing. The purpose of these kits are to remove the high voltage that clouds the optical sensor and promotes oxidation while replacing it with something that will give a hotter spark.
