Charcoal canister location
#1
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Charcoal canister location
Where is the Darned thing? Still getting an evap control solenoid issue on my 93z I replaced the solenoid on the passenger side of the intake manifold, but the code still comes up. So now Im looking at either replacing the entire canister, or maybe just the solenoid on the canister... still debating. I had hopes of waiting till my car becomes emissions exempt(october as far as I can tell), and deleting all emissions equipment... But.. I was pulled over yesterday for my 4 year old inspection Sticker.. heh.. And right now, this evap issue is the only thing keeping me from passing.
Last edited by Smokeshow_2006; 07-26-2007 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Addition Information
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Typically on the 93s the Evap or Quad4 error is caused when the air pump, or air pump harness fails. On the 93's the wire from the fuse box to the air pump is the wrong gauge and it burns out. If the antibackfire valves ( they are the fittings in the DS header or behind the intake for the passenger side ) Go bad they allow exhaust/moisture to get into the air pump and build up enough water to freeze the pump blades in freezing weather, which burns out the motor.
Check that the air pump is running when the car is first started. If it's not:
A) unplug the harness from the pump, and reset the ECM.
B) Peplace the wire ( I think it's white? ). with a heavier gauge. I think there is/was a TSN on this.
JB
Check that the air pump is running when the car is first started. If it's not:
A) unplug the harness from the pump, and reset the ECM.
B) Peplace the wire ( I think it's white? ). with a heavier gauge. I think there is/was a TSN on this.
JB
#6
Originally Posted by InsaneAuto86
If you delete the canister, do you just plug the line or let it vent?
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#8
Originally Posted by dhdenney
Talking about the line in the gas lines?
No SES light thrown - I have a 93, it doesn't really care what I do
#10
Originally Posted by dhdenney
Yeah I deleted mine as well. I didn't vent the line under car, I capped it.
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Originally Posted by Puck
I capped the line to. I was referring to getting a vented gas cap, which is recommended to keep the system from building pressure and hissing everytime you open the gas cap, and the car smelling like gasoline
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mine hisses every time i open the cap. and i have a gas smell after driving the car for a long perio of time.
i always think that theres a cobra i didnt kill next to me
i guess i need a vented cap.
i always think that theres a cobra i didnt kill next to me
i guess i need a vented cap.
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Ok... anyway, My air pump doesnt work, as pampered Z mentioned. However, Ive got 3 wires, two red, one black, coming from the Pump. Asuming I just plug the line under the TB for the evap, I may still get a egr issue seeing as though the pump operats the egr.
So my next question regarding a new jumper wire.
which lead should I jump on the harness? and could I tap the other end into wires from the AIR relay, and If so... which one should I jump from?
So my next question regarding a new jumper wire.
which lead should I jump on the harness? and could I tap the other end into wires from the AIR relay, and If so... which one should I jump from?
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Originally Posted by Smokeshow_2006
Ok... anyway, My air pump doesnt work, as pampered Z mentioned. However, Ive got 3 wires, two red, one black, coming from the Pump. Asuming I just plug the line under the TB for the evap, I may still get a egr issue seeing as though the pump operats the egr.
So my next question regarding a new jumper wire.
which lead should I jump on the harness? and could I tap the other end into wires from the AIR relay, and If so... which one should I jump from?
So my next question regarding a new jumper wire.
which lead should I jump on the harness? and could I tap the other end into wires from the AIR relay, and If so... which one should I jump from?
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Naw, Dont bother, I traced the lines myself, all were fine, But took your advice anyway, creating a jumper from the air pump solenoid, to the pump, and a fuse blew. So.. I created a direct line from the air pump to a known good 12v+, and all I made were sparks. The pump was seized up. $200+ for the GM part. Ouch.