Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Just like the title says, what is a good crank that won't break the bank. I'm planning on redoing the crank and rods in my motor this winter to replace the stock parts that I should have done in the first place. I think I'm going to get some Eagle H-beam rods, but I'm not sure about a crank. My motor won't be sprayed, but mabye boosted down the road in a few years but it may be a completely new setup then

Thanks in advance

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

The Scat 9000 serise is a great choice

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

nothing wrong with the stock crank,it can handle a good amount of power.
what do you define as breaking the bank?
Eagle cast crank 189.99
Eagle steel crank 699.00
Scat cast crank 235.00
Scat steel crank 630.00
Scat steel,pro comp,light weight 995.00
Lunati sledgehammer crank 850.00
Callies crank 1500.00

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Biggest problem with a stock crank. . . . is you can only offset grind them so much

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

Keep the stocker, I'm sure for what your wanting to do it will be plenty fine.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Well I'm planning on doing some road racing with the car next summer and just want to make sure that the motor will hold the rpms and the stock crank just makes me a little nervous, but my oiling system is better than stock so that is probably helping a little.

But I really don't want to spend more than $650 I would love to get a dragonslayer, but not on this motor, mabye next time

But if the stock crank will hold up alright I'll just leave it, but my motor is far from stock right now 11.1-1 pistons decked block, shaved heads, LE3 port job, CC306, 1.6 pro mags, Hooker LTs, true duals, blah blah blah. But I really want to get rid of the stock rods

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

Eagle H beam rods worked well for me. I made probably right at 850-875 crank HP on my stock crank, eagle h beam rods, and wiseco pistons with my old nitrous setup.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I should have stayed in touch with you, maybe then you could have watched my whale run 11.9s sunday at GLD. Worst of like 8-10 passes of the day was 12.2 after driving 150 miles and bolting on slicks without even checking the pressure.
IMO you have a lot of poor ideas and are going to spend money on the wrong things and in the wrong places.

If staying stock stroke you probably have to spend $450 just to match the stock crank quality.
The stock rods are pretty good if held below 7000rpms again probably have to spend $300 to get anything better, the cheap aftermarket stuff is just that CHEAP, sure the $190 cranks hold up fairly well but so does the stocker.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Glad to see you back in my post with all of your arrogance. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate you helping me out with the parts but if you don't have anything of worth to add to my post, then please don't post at all. They already discussed that the stock cranks were strong, and I already said that I would stick with it as long as it has worked in the past, but the stock rods are going to be replaced. And I'm pretty sure that the H-beam rods are a little more than $300, but that really has nothing to do with it

Thanks to everyone else for the replies, but if he keeps posting I'll just delete the post to avoid the flaming

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

He is right, also A lot of people waste their money on parts that are not necessary, Of course it all depends on what you want to accomplish as far as horsepower. RPM is what kills bottom ends. Stock rods with ARP bolts are pretty good for a decent N/A motor. The stock crank is actually fairly strong but for auto cross I would go to a after market. The pistons are the weakest part of rotating assembly and would definetly go forged. If you can make your power goals at a low RPM range then your stock rods and crank may just work out with a good balance job. But if green stuff is not an issue then go with better rods and crank...

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I have forged pistons, studed mains, arp bolts in my rods, rods were resized and checked out. The oiling system is 10% over stock and I'm going to add either a canton pan or a 7 quart moroso when I put the K member in. But I know what you are saying about trying to make power down low, that would help out alot. I'm not sure what my peak HP is, I never got a chance to get it to the dyno because my tranny was acting up all summer, but hopefully when I get the M6 all finished it will be strapped in to see what it can put down.

But right now I think I'm going to do the rods and leave the stock crank and put some good bearings in and mabye next year I can redo the motor again if I feel the need.