what can i do besides FI?
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what can i do besides FI?
hey everyone... my 383 is making 395rwhp and 386rwtq.... just wondering if i can squeeze anymore out of my motor N/A? like bigger cam maybe? i seen some other 383 cars on here making bigger numbers than me..looking at my mod list, what do you think i can change/ upgrade to get more out of the 383 before i slap nitrous on...
Motor-383ci stroker
Internally balanced, blueprinted, decked/Bored .030 over lt-1 block
ARP bolts/studs used where applicable
Eagle 4340 internally balanced crank
Eagle "h" beam connecting rods
Comp Cams high energy hydraulic lifters
Comp Cams 1.6 roller rocker
Comp Cams chromemoly pushrods
Cloyes double roller timing chain
Wiseco dish pistons/ring kit with floating wrist pins
Comp Cam custom 230/244 cam .580 lift w/114 lobe seperation
NGK TR-55 plugs
MSD 8.5 wires
New vented '95 opti spark
Mellings high volume oil pump
Intake:
ported and polished lt-1 intake(to match heads and throttle body)
BBK 58mm throttle body
Throttle body coolant bypass
ported and polished lt-1 heads with Ferrea valves, guides, retainers
AFR Hydra rev kit
Ford 30lb injectors
Controlled by Gen 6 DFI/piggy backed with stock computer
Other accessories:
SLP tubular CAI (dual filters), Granatelli MAF, Hooker ceramic coated long tube headers, 2-into-1 4inch mufflex y-pipe, 4 inch mufflex exhaust, in-tank walbro 255 pump, MSD 6 BTM ignition
Motor-383ci stroker
Internally balanced, blueprinted, decked/Bored .030 over lt-1 block
ARP bolts/studs used where applicable
Eagle 4340 internally balanced crank
Eagle "h" beam connecting rods
Comp Cams high energy hydraulic lifters
Comp Cams 1.6 roller rocker
Comp Cams chromemoly pushrods
Cloyes double roller timing chain
Wiseco dish pistons/ring kit with floating wrist pins
Comp Cam custom 230/244 cam .580 lift w/114 lobe seperation
NGK TR-55 plugs
MSD 8.5 wires
New vented '95 opti spark
Mellings high volume oil pump
Intake:
ported and polished lt-1 intake(to match heads and throttle body)
BBK 58mm throttle body
Throttle body coolant bypass
ported and polished lt-1 heads with Ferrea valves, guides, retainers
AFR Hydra rev kit
Ford 30lb injectors
Controlled by Gen 6 DFI/piggy backed with stock computer
Other accessories:
SLP tubular CAI (dual filters), Granatelli MAF, Hooker ceramic coated long tube headers, 2-into-1 4inch mufflex y-pipe, 4 inch mufflex exhaust, in-tank walbro 255 pump, MSD 6 BTM ignition
#4
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Your cam looks like it would be good for nitrous, but if you were going to stay NA, then go with a 111 or 112 lsa, and more lift maybe 600-610 range. Im kinda in the same boat as you with cam selection, but im probably going to be spraying mine this spring. So Im keeping the 114lsa cam.
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Your cam looks like it would be good for nitrous, but if you were going to stay NA, then go with a 111 or 112 lsa, and more lift maybe 600-610 range. Im kinda in the same boat as you with cam selection, but im probably going to be spraying mine this spring. So Im keeping the 114lsa cam.
#6
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For the baby shots most guys run spreading the LSA to 114 does nothing but compromise NA power, you got the cam wrong unless it was done for emissions.
Why in the hell is it only 10.5:1 compression, another big mistake. You realize stock is 10.4 right, exactly what you can run depends on the cam but you should probably have aimed like a full point higher.
It is making decent power considering those two big flaws so you must have the other stuff well nailed down.
Why in the hell is it only 10.5:1 compression, another big mistake. You realize stock is 10.4 right, exactly what you can run depends on the cam but you should probably have aimed like a full point higher.
It is making decent power considering those two big flaws so you must have the other stuff well nailed down.
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For the baby shots most guys run spreading the LSA to 114 does nothing but compromise NA power, you got the cam wrong unless it was done for emissions.
Why in the hell is it only 10.5:1 compression, another big mistake. You realize stock is 10.4 right, exactly what you can run depends on the cam but you should probably have aimed like a full point higher.
It is making decent power considering those two big flaws so you must have the other stuff well nailed down.
Why in the hell is it only 10.5:1 compression, another big mistake. You realize stock is 10.4 right, exactly what you can run depends on the cam but you should probably have aimed like a full point higher.
It is making decent power considering those two big flaws so you must have the other stuff well nailed down.
he said only 10.5 cuz wanted to go FI? idk...
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#8
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the same cam just 112lsa I would say, also you could mill the heads to get the compression up. THis is up to you, I would stay in the 10.1-10.5 range just for longevity purposes. Also if you ever get a bad batch of gas, you would have some serious detonation going on. Alot of guys run 11.1 but you have more room for error at 10.1, you also suffer some hp loss maybe 15ponies from 11.1 to 10.1 .
Last edited by kinglt-1; 12-10-2007 at 06:42 PM.
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the same cam just 112lsa I would say, also you could mill the heads to get the compression up. THis is up to you, I would stay in the 10.1-10.5 range just for longevity purposes. Also if you ever get a bad batch of gas, you would have some serious detonation going on. Alot of guys run 11.1 but you have more room for error at 10.1, you also suffer some hp loss maybe 15ponies from 11.1 to 10.1 .
#10
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I also was told that at any nitrous power level such as a 100shot, a 114lsa cam will make more power on the bottle than a 112lsa at the same lift dur. figures. I could be wrong? I would say put spray on it and go, you would spend alot more money for minimal gains changing the whole setup. Realisticly I would say you might be losing 25whp due to cam and compression setup.[/QUOTE]
#12
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Did you dyno the car, or do you just have the dyno sheet? Was it on a Dyno jet? Mustang dyno? What are your goals for the car? Do you want to drag race it sometimes, auto cross? Just street? Your car is making good power now...I'd run it at the track and see what your mph is which will tell you if the dyno was "happy" or not...I wouldn't change a thing until I knew what it ran...I agree with Caprice about the wide lsa...I like 110-112 for n/a...FWIW you make more rwhp/tq than I do...but my trap speed would suggest a higher number which is why dynos are for tuning...
--Alan
--Alan
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Did you dyno the car, or do you just have the dyno sheet? Was it on a Dyno jet? Mustang dyno? What are your goals for the car? Do you want to drag race it sometimes, auto cross? Just street? Your car is making good power now...I'd run it at the track and see what your mph is which will tell you if the dyno was "happy" or not...I wouldn't change a thing until I knew what it ran...I agree with Caprice about the wide lsa...I like 110-112 for n/a...FWIW you make more rwhp/tq than I do...but my trap speed would suggest a higher number which is why dynos are for tuning...
--Alan
--Alan
just the dyno sheet from guy... i have only had the car for 2 weeks.. so cant even run it till spring.... i cant run it till i get a rear end in there anyways.. i pretty sure with my m6 and some sticky tires, it will go boom.... i just like asking questions and doing research ahead of time so i know what i planning for... thats all.. not saying i doing this next week, still have some bugs to work out.... as for the car.. its my DD this year, weekend warrior at the strip... mostly just screw around and have fun on the street..... thats why i got an m6 instead of A4... want it to be fun, but still move...