95N20FORMULA

iTrader: (3)

im trying to think of what to do to my lt1 with 171k miles it runs extremely strong but i just dk what i want to do, so im thinkink of saving alittle more money from right now i had 1300 set aside to do a hotcam/le1 budget head combo, but idk i may save up another grand by waiting to do a 355 with Le1 heads/Comp Cams 467 cam 230/236 510/520(1.5rr) and try shifting around 6500? what u guys think i may spray a 150 shot as well

moge11

355ci maybe. But definitely save for at least a Le1 head with Le2 cam or the XR282hr 230/236 510/520 on the stock bottom end even. It will be worth the wait.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

With that many miles on it, that block is tired and I would just do the 355 along with h/c top end, and 150 shot as well. You will also need to upgrade your fuel delivery system, ignition, trans(if stock), maybe even rear end to handle the new power. As you can see, one mod adds up to other mods to match the combo. Hope this help,good luck..

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, save your money and do the whole combo at one time. It'll be safer for the motor, and you'll like the results alot more

95N20FORMULA

iTrader: (3)

thats what im talkink about, i was just gonna do the h/c now, but ive decided to wait i think and do a 355 with h/c

Boodyrider

iTrader: (2)

Your budget is significantly inadequate.

Skip the heads/cam, save for the short block. If you build/buy a top quality forged bottom end, you'll be able to keep that for years and concentrate on the top end later. Might think about 383 or 396, but the important issue is decide if you're going to boost, spray, turbo, or go all motor BEFORE you start thinking about the specs. A decent short block will run you 3-4 grand, a really serious one up to 8 or 10k.

And think also about a couple other things:
Ultimate power level? this will suggest other mods that may be needed, like fuel, rear, trans, and suspension, and also goes to what the top end will cost you to do right.
How long you'll REALLY keep the car, and what it's worth. You'll never get the cost of mods back, so remind yourself it's just for your entertainment. Based on that, decide what it's worth to YOU when thinking about how fast you want to go.
Fuel economy - unfortunately, except for track only cars, this is a consideration. Think about the best way to reach the goals you have for the car, but consider efficiency too... clearly you like to drive it!

If you can afford the risk, spray the stocker as is, knowing it may not live long.

95N20FORMULA

iTrader: (3)

im not gonna go all out by no means and i just want 375-400rwhp on motor and maybe 500 on spray if i ever even spray i can get what i want motor wise for abround 3gs, as all labor will be free

86zboss

iTrader: (1)

To be honest i dont think you will be able to touch that kind of HP for 3k, After tranny, spray setup, and just bolt on's your lookin at around 3k. A good FORGED bottom end goes for 1,600 +. Then with the new motor, you need to upgrade fuel system, tranny, rear end, and then have it programmed and/or dyno tuned. There is a lot more to it than just throwing a high HP motor into something.

3pnt4maro

iTrader: (2)

it will be close...choose your parts carefully and build a decent bottom end..it doesnt have to be top of the line for the power levels your shooting for..a good 355 rebuild would be good enough with all fresh parts...a good top end, again not the top of the line and do your supporting mods..I have about 4500 in my motor altogether and through the 3200 stall put down the numbers in my sig....with a spray setup i would be in the mid 400's..whats more important is what she will do at the track

95N20FORMULA

iTrader: (3)

well ive already got bolt ons, a rebuilt tranny, and a hook up for the tune so im just looking for the motor stuff, it will be mostly a street car to, only thing done to the rear is a girdle

95N20FORMULA

iTrader: (3)

and spray isnt super important and id be happy with 380rwhp ish and wait on spray another month or so

98lswonz28

with that budget I would stay with stock cubes. just go with forged pistons and rods, gmpp crank. Use good fasteners. throw a cc306 in it and get your stock heads worked over a little. valve job, lt4 valves, and gasket match, clean up the intake and heads. with the right tune that will be around 375-380hp, and would be Nike on the nitrous. dont forget 12 bolt, gears, clutch or stall.

thats what I did with my first lt1, its like $280 for pistons, and like $250 for rods. plus you dont have to deal with the machine shop. On the top end just buy used stuff. the only thing you need on an lt1 to get from 350-360hp cam only to 380-400hp would be heads. or just pill up if you dont want to throw away $ on a set or just work with the heads you have making them better.


and if you just dont know theres always

95N20FORMULA

iTrader: (3)

idk someone was saying i needed to get the block reworked or somethinkg because of the high miles idk? id rather just do that than the 355. there isnt THAT much gained anywayz

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

I think your way under budget, here is some food for thought for a 355 heads/cam setup...

bearings
rings
arp main bolts
oil pan gasket
timing cover gasket
rear main seal
rear main seal cover gasket
oil filter housing gasket
waterpump gaskets
intake gaskets
head gaskets
timing chain SET
pushrods
roller rockers
valve springs
lifters
oil pump
oil pump pickup
oil pump shaft
head studs or bolts
lt4 knock module
injectors
255 fuel pump
forged rods/pistons
machine work(YOU HAVE TO DO THIS)
Plus the head porting and the cam

That is just what I came up with off the top of my head, I know I missed a lot also.

Have you ever assembled a motor before, I'm guessing not, do you trust yourself to do it? I wouldn't if I was you honestly, so you'll have to have someone at least assemble the shortblock.

95N20FORMULA

iTrader: (3)

no but my uncle has been doing it for almost 25 years

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

A good 355 with a good bottom end and a nice heads/cam setup will cost you around 6000-8000 dollars depending on whether or not you want to do the rest (like roller rockers, intake porting, good throttle body, bigger injectors)...

if you just skimp on that stuff you COULD get it to around 5000 bucks but it won't be a monster 355.....

I built a 355 6" rod motor with stock crank and sprayed it and it put down 422RWHP on motor and 575 on a 150 shot.... Car was a beast but the motor was all of 8K if not more..... that's for everything, gaskets, machine work, injectors, better fuel sys, tuning.... it all costs money and alot of times you won't plan for it....

A good rule of thumb is look up all the prices of stuff you want and add that up.... Then take that number and add about 25%-30% of the total to it to cover unexpected cost like gaskets, seals, machine work, assembly, etc.... So if you think you can do it for 10K it will more likely cost you 12,500-13,000... it's worked for every motor i've build so far...

RedLT4Mike

iTrader: (4)

....it's true
see my sig

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Where the hell are you going to put 10k in a rotating assembly?????

A super nice forged Comp Star assembly is $2000 and comes balanced (forged stroker crank, forged pistons, h-beam rods... nice stuff). That will support more power than anyone would ever need. Half block fill cost next to nothing. Splayed main caps are cheap and installation is also affordable.

4k will get you a completely bullet-proof shortblock.

98lswonz28

forged stock cubes for $1000 cant beat it, good to 550hp


srp pistons, eagle rods, good fasteners, lifters, cc306, rockers, pushrods. throw a 150-175 shot you have a killer set. Do it yourself and save some $


the heads are where you get the shaft, not alot of hp and tons of money. with your budget, stay with stock heads. might get them worked over a little.


you can make 380hp with a nice cam, cc306 is god. and hookin up the stock heads some. you will deff need a walbro 255 pump - $100. maybe injectors.
dyno tune is your friend also. Dont forget to add spray.

Boodyrider

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Dragframe;8340957]Where the hell are you going to put 10k in a rotating assembly?????
QUOTE]

8-10 k would be nicer toys than you list in the rotating assembly (it's possible to spend over 2500 on a crank), capable of handling a BIG shot or very high boost and high revs... and built by a reputable shop.

If this guy has (talented) labor available for free, with full access to a machine shop, of course the parts alone for his described needs would cost less.