LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

new 383 lt1

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Old 05-15-2008, 09:19 PM
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Default new 383 lt1

was thinking of a 383 stroker with a killer set of stock ported heads since they flow so well and intake and a nice custom cam with about 11.1 comp. thats the basic of what i would like to do to stay on a budget but still make some good power . i would be happy if it made 400 hp. it is my first motor build and am new to the lt1, is it a good direction?
Old 05-15-2008, 09:37 PM
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if you only want 400hp dont bother building a stroker, this can be acheived with full boltons and a decent tune.
Old 05-17-2008, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by lt1noob
if you only want 400hp dont bother building a stroker, this can be acheived with full boltons and a decent tune.
what kind of boltons do you suggest i am in the position to use the stock heads so what should i do to get the 400 hp
Old 05-17-2008, 10:10 PM
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heads or stock ported heads, cam, tune, little things like cai, ported tb ect.
Old 05-18-2008, 12:18 AM
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"if" you need a rebuild...buy a short block 383 and put your cam and Head choice on.

Golen makes a good short block. AI or LE make good head/cam packages.

If your bottom end is in good shape than just do a head/cam package
Old 05-20-2008, 06:57 PM
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i have no choice to use the stock heads because im on a budget. so would a 383 or 350 with stock ported heads a nice cam with headers ported tb and a good tune with a couple other little things get me to the 400hp or more mark thanks
Old 05-20-2008, 07:03 PM
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should be around 400 just depends on if u have 6speed or auto,im assuming u have a 6speed because u didnt mention a stall
Old 05-20-2008, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by fast414
i have no choice to use the stock heads because im on a budget. so would a 383 or 350 with stock ported heads a nice cam with headers ported tb and a good tune with a couple other little things get me to the 400hp or more mark thanks
How much is budget? Why 400 hp? Do you mean 400 wheels or crank? Is it a daily driver? Gas mileage important? Will you do any of the work? Is engine running now? Whatg is its condition? Auto stick?

Last edited by BattleShip; 05-20-2008 at 07:13 PM.
Old 05-20-2008, 07:24 PM
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LLyod makes killer H/C packages
Old 05-20-2008, 07:44 PM
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Spray will get you the numbers you want quickly as long as you used common sense and don't cram 300 hp shot jets on stock motor.
Old 05-20-2008, 09:00 PM
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full boltons and call advanced induction for a h/c package.
Old 05-20-2008, 09:35 PM
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its an auto and it a "weekend car" but i want it to be very street able and nos is not the direction am going . its fully stock right now and high 11's would make me very happy weather 400hp or not i just want to run high 11's thanks
Old 05-20-2008, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BattleShip
How much is budget? Why 400 hp? Do you mean 400 wheels or crank? Is it a daily driver? Gas mileage important? Will you do any of the work? Is engine running now? Whatg is its condition? Auto stick?
its auto, budget means stock heads possible stock or rebuild short block... and as long as it will run around high 11's that would be awesome thanks
Old 05-20-2008, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fast414
its auto, budget means stock heads possible stock or rebuild short block... and as long as it will run around high 11's that would be awesome thanks
Your goals cannot be reached with stock heads on a budget IMO.

To get 11.99 with a 3700 pound car you need 434 RWHP. That will require a power adder such as NOS (ALOT), stall, tune, and gears. I do not see a budget car making it to the 11's and lasting.

To get in the 11's is a challenge to do it on a budget will take alot of talent and ability to do all your own work.
Old 05-20-2008, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BattleShip
To get 11.99 with a 3700 pound car you need 434 RWHP. That will require a power adder such as NOS (ALOT), stall, tune, and gears. I do not see a budget car making it to the 11's and lasting.
...just curious as to where you got your information.
Old 05-21-2008, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SS MPSTR
...just curious as to where you got your information.
I wrote a program to calculate et given weight and hp, or I can plug in a weight and time and get hp. There are many calculaors on line that will do it.

Few give same numbers because of assumptions but allow estimates. 3700 is probably on heavy side for weight but have to assume not everyone is 150 lbs.
Old 05-21-2008, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BattleShip
I wrote a program to calculate et given weight and hp, or I can plug in a weight and time and get hp. There are many calculaors on line that will do it.

Few give same numbers because of assumptions but allow estimates. 3700 is probably on heavy side for weight but have to assume not everyone is 150 lbs.
I think you program is off.Do you even enter D/A numbers?

numbers in sig were done in a 451 rwhp car@3450 lbs with a crappy 60ft and a +1800 D/A
Old 05-21-2008, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BattleShip
I wrote a program to calculate et given weight and hp, or I can plug in a weight and time and get hp. There are many calculaors on line that will do it.

Few give same numbers because of assumptions but allow estimates. 3700 is probably on heavy side for weight but have to assume not everyone is 150 lbs.

I never trusted those online calculators, because they seem to ignore other factors that affect the ET, and power. Lots of Chevelle guys running deep into the 11's, with comparable weight and less rwhp. Not saying there isn't some credibility to the program for the purposes of discussion, but I think we can all agree they are not conclusive or absolute. Just my $0.02.
Old 05-21-2008, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave J
I think you program is off.Do you even enter D/A numbers?

numbers in sig were done in a 451 rwhp car@3450 lbs with a crappy 60ft and a +1800 D/A
There are many possible reasons for the difference. The weight is off, the hp is off, or the et is wrong or other problems which would fill a page.

I think your dyno numbers are off. The ET’s are calculated for sea level. As I posted in the following thread

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=#post9399774

Originally Posted by BattleShip
...if you want to know why there are differences in calculators here is a read

http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htm
I wrote a program to reflect the research done by the link above. My program uses their formula, I look forward to seeing something that disputes their findings with an equal quality of research and analyses.

Now for my questions to you

Do you believe your dyno can accurately measure your HP with a large stall and a transbrake?

I know many that have ~4000 stall that have LOW numbers on a dyno compared to their track tmes. That is not a problem with the calculator it is a problem with a dyno measuring some systems.

To verify my claim go to ANY track and there will be many who changed to a larger stall, went faster, but dyno'd lower. Does that mean the track timers were wrong? NO, that says the dyno is the problem.

Dynos showing low hp on a large stalled car is consistently reported on all sites, so why would your dyno be different?
Old 05-21-2008, 11:41 AM
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I Also Agree That Is A Little Off, There Is A Guy Who Posted In My Cadillac Cam Thread That Has 375rwhp And Ran A 11.23. Let Me Find It And Ill Link It.


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