Slotted And Drilled Rotors
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Slotted And Drilled Rotors
Ok I was thinking of buying a set of slotted and drilled rotors from the brand evolution for $127.99 (yes that's all 4) tell me does any one think that's a good deal or not??
Is any one familar with that brand??
Is any one familar with that brand??
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how would they worsen everything? isnt the idea of the drilled and slotted rotors to improve pad life because the holes and slots allow for heat and gasses to escape from the rotors? i kno that drilled rotors have a bigger chance of cracking due to the fact that they make be weaker because of the holes...but i always thought that a good set of drilled and slotted rotors and a nice set of brake pads does your cars braking system good???
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i have been looking around for a nice set of drilled and slotted rotors also and i came across a few great deals but they seem to good to be true...like $170 for all 4...i just dont wanna get them and they be shitty...you know you get wut you paid for sometimes
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From The Brake Faq ( https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=2 )section:
"For braking performance, a plain rotor is the best you can get. It has no fancy holes or slots, its the best rotor to buy from a performance point of view. There have been many debates on how high end race cars also use crossdrilled and slotted rotors."
and:
"Slotts were intended to wipe away the boundary layer of gas created by older brake pads, back when pad compounds off-gassed. At the same time, slots also scrape a "fresh" surface of the pad. Now the only advantage to slots are replacing pads faster as they will QUICKLY eat through pads under aggressive driving."
and:
"Its a common misconception that with crossdrilled rotors that they help dissipate heat faster, and allow gasses created by the friction material on pads to escape. Heres a quote from stoptechs website that should do away with that myth.
Quote:
For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing.
It has also been said from some rotor manufacures that with drilling holes in the rotor makes it lighter, thus reducing rotating mass, and unsprung weight. What they dont tell you is that this weakens the rotor, and also with less mass in the rotor it reduces the thermal capacity. You may have also heard about cross drilled rotors with the holes cast in them instead of drilled like on some of the Porsches to prevent cracking. These are the Porsche rotors in question." (photo of cracked Porsche rotor)
and:
"With drilled rotors and todays pad compounds, there is no performance gain to be had. It weakens the rotor, and reduces the surface area of the rotor in which the pad comes in contact with. The only purpose they serve today is to increase the looks of the assemby behind the wheel.
The original intent of drilled rotors from trackbird's site
Quote:
A long time ago, pads were made with the best resins we had available. Many of those resins would produce gas as they cured. When a pad was used the first few times, the heat would "cure" the resin which would cause it to produce vapors. This was known as "out gassing". The vapors would build up between the pad and the rotor and lift or "force" the pad away from the rotor (like the puck in air hockey). This caused the brakes to be very ineffective, even though they were not yet at the maximum rated operating temperature. The holes were drilled to allow that gas a place to escape. So, it is correct to say that rotors were cross drilled to eliminate fade, but not for the reasons you would think. The good news is that today's resins no longer suffer from these problem and the modern race pads are so good that this is really no longer an issue. So, by cross drilling rotors, you will only manage to shorten the lifespan of that rotor (it now has less surface area to wear against the brake pad and will wear more quickly as well as a reduction in weight that will cause the brakes to operate at a higher temperature).
Remember, the rotors act as a heat sink that convert the forward energy of the vehicle into heat energy through the friction caused by clamping a brake pad to the spinning rotor. Because of conservation of energy, the amount of heat created in the brakes must be equivalent of slowing down the car. That is a LOT of heat. With a reduced mass rotor, the amount of heat it can hold is also reduced. One way of increasing rotor mass is increasing the tickness of the rotor, and also by increasing the diameter. Increasing the diameter also has the bennifit of gaining additional leverage and torque capabilities."
ARE YOU GUYS GETTING THIS??
"For braking performance, a plain rotor is the best you can get. It has no fancy holes or slots, its the best rotor to buy from a performance point of view. There have been many debates on how high end race cars also use crossdrilled and slotted rotors."
and:
"Slotts were intended to wipe away the boundary layer of gas created by older brake pads, back when pad compounds off-gassed. At the same time, slots also scrape a "fresh" surface of the pad. Now the only advantage to slots are replacing pads faster as they will QUICKLY eat through pads under aggressive driving."
and:
"Its a common misconception that with crossdrilled rotors that they help dissipate heat faster, and allow gasses created by the friction material on pads to escape. Heres a quote from stoptechs website that should do away with that myth.
Quote:
For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing.
It has also been said from some rotor manufacures that with drilling holes in the rotor makes it lighter, thus reducing rotating mass, and unsprung weight. What they dont tell you is that this weakens the rotor, and also with less mass in the rotor it reduces the thermal capacity. You may have also heard about cross drilled rotors with the holes cast in them instead of drilled like on some of the Porsches to prevent cracking. These are the Porsche rotors in question." (photo of cracked Porsche rotor)
and:
"With drilled rotors and todays pad compounds, there is no performance gain to be had. It weakens the rotor, and reduces the surface area of the rotor in which the pad comes in contact with. The only purpose they serve today is to increase the looks of the assemby behind the wheel.
The original intent of drilled rotors from trackbird's site
Quote:
A long time ago, pads were made with the best resins we had available. Many of those resins would produce gas as they cured. When a pad was used the first few times, the heat would "cure" the resin which would cause it to produce vapors. This was known as "out gassing". The vapors would build up between the pad and the rotor and lift or "force" the pad away from the rotor (like the puck in air hockey). This caused the brakes to be very ineffective, even though they were not yet at the maximum rated operating temperature. The holes were drilled to allow that gas a place to escape. So, it is correct to say that rotors were cross drilled to eliminate fade, but not for the reasons you would think. The good news is that today's resins no longer suffer from these problem and the modern race pads are so good that this is really no longer an issue. So, by cross drilling rotors, you will only manage to shorten the lifespan of that rotor (it now has less surface area to wear against the brake pad and will wear more quickly as well as a reduction in weight that will cause the brakes to operate at a higher temperature).
Remember, the rotors act as a heat sink that convert the forward energy of the vehicle into heat energy through the friction caused by clamping a brake pad to the spinning rotor. Because of conservation of energy, the amount of heat created in the brakes must be equivalent of slowing down the car. That is a LOT of heat. With a reduced mass rotor, the amount of heat it can hold is also reduced. One way of increasing rotor mass is increasing the tickness of the rotor, and also by increasing the diameter. Increasing the diameter also has the bennifit of gaining additional leverage and torque capabilities."
ARE YOU GUYS GETTING THIS??
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haha yea they do look hot! i would buy them...i mean i dont do autocross and i dont slam on my brakes at the last minute wen driving around town......maybe if ur a spaz with the brake pedal and slam on it all the time and come to screetching stops all the time then maybe the rotors and pads wouldnt last
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yea some nice rotors and good pads are great!
i have been looking around for a nice set of drilled and slotted rotors also and i came across a few great deals but they seem to good to be true...like $170 for all 4...i just dont wanna get them and they be shitty...you know you get wut you paid for sometimes
i have been looking around for a nice set of drilled and slotted rotors also and i came across a few great deals but they seem to good to be true...like $170 for all 4...i just dont wanna get them and they be shitty...you know you get wut you paid for sometimes
HOW MUCH worse is drilled/slotted, i have no idea, i wouldn't think it would be significant. I'm sure a good set of pads will make up the difference. My 2 cents.
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main and really only reason I got slotted rotors was because I wanted mine coated. No one seemed to offer any antirust coatings with blank face rotors. I wasn't going to buy el cheapos either, so powerslot was good choice for me.
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im going with the ones from the WS6 store with some hawk pads. my rotors are warped and the pads are shot(previous owner)
so its time to change + plus i like the look, i wouldn't look to spend the money just cause i thought of better performance
so its time to change + plus i like the look, i wouldn't look to spend the money just cause i thought of better performance