skeeters65

iTrader: (1)

Tranny is a 2002 F-body T-56 with Hurst shifter and about 50k miles.. Stock clutch with GM fluid..

I was on my way to work today and about half way there my tranny started acting up.. It started to be hard to shift. When I got to sixth gear it wouldnt go into gear. It would just grind..
I turned around and went home to get the TBSS.. On the way it didnt get any better..

thesource

iTrader: (60)

Sounds like it could be the clutch. I would have it checked out before driving it again. Driving it with clutch issue will damage the transmission as well.

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Rebuilding the tranny with a new input shaft, and a 5th & 6th gear assy cost me $1280.

Just wondering... is your hydraulic fluid blacker than tar?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

I agree with thesource.. A dying clutch will exhibit first in the overdrive gears, because they have the most TQ to turn them at the inputshaft (clutch). As the clutch starts to slip, it will cause more damage to the 5/6 gears trying to force them into gear.

skeeters65

iTrader: (1)

I just checked the Clutch Hydro fluid. It is a dark milky grey color. I stuck my finger in it and it seemed clear. Then I rubbed the inside of the resivior and had a bunch of black sludge on my finger..

I just filled the thing with new fluid 1400 miles ago..

Suggestions??

Thanks

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Does it make any noises that change when you press in the clutch?... like at idle? Is it really hard to get it into first/reverse from a stop?

skeeters65

iTrader: (1)

It doesnt make any noises..
Reverse was very hard to get into...
1 - 4 went in OK not good but the shifter was hard to move.. Even side to side in Nuetral..

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Just cuz you topped it off, does NOT mean too much, other than you mixed some new fluid with "dark milky grey color" fluid. You need to bleed all the old crap out, THEN fill it back up. Try that, then drive. If STILL problem, then clutch as thesource suggested.

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

You can change the fluid without putting the car in the air too, but it takes a good while. If you pump the clutch about 20 times, then suck out all the nasty fluid, then replace it and put the cap back on and repeat the process over and over and over then it will eventually cycle all the fluid around. I used to do it that way before I cut a hole in my floor. Now I can change the fluid in about 2 minutes.

Not saying that this is 100% the problem, but it certainly wouldnt hurt to try it. It might be a master cylinder issue.

I dont know what would make it hard to move around in neutral...

skeeters65

iTrader: (1)

The car is a 69 Camaro..
When I installed the tranny the master was empty.. I dont think there was much if any fluid in it by the time I installed it...

Would dirty fluid give these symptoms??

Thanks

thesource

iTrader: (60)

Start with a good fluid flush and bleeding. It cost next to nothing to do. If that does not resolve it, move on to considering replacing the slave or master cylinder. Anytime you have issues putting the unit into 1st or reverse, the clutch usually is the issue. In your case, specifically the hydraulic system for the clutch.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

If you were that empty, air MAY have found it's way into the setup (may also have a leak), and coupled with dirty fluid certainly does not help. Again, as everyone is stating, start with a good flush and bleed (cost is a few bucks for brake fluid, and some time) No harm in starting there, AND needs to be done anyways

skeeters65

iTrader: (1)

What is the best way to flush and bleed the master cylinder??

Thanks

ETA: There are no leaks..

thesource

iTrader: (60)

There are several ways to bleed the system. There are kits that will reverse bleed it from the bottom up or you can do it the old fashion way. Grab a friend and throw them in the car. You will have to control the bleeder valve under the car and monitor the master to keep it topped off as it uses the fluid. Its a lot like bleeding brakes.

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

7/16 deep well socket will fit over the slave bleeder valve. I might try taping the socket to the extension, you definitely wouldnt want to loose a socket down inside the bell housing

I have never tried mity vacking the system from the slave end... not really sure if you could. Is there a way to create a solid vacuum on the fluid from the slave bleeder valve all the way to the resivior?... ie pump the mity vac from the slave and watch it drain out of the resivior?