maxspeed96ct

iTrader: (3)

I need to start shopping for a new clutch and flywheel setup .

I want to get rid of the stock 45lb CTS-V flywheel , But im not sure wether to go with a 28lb steel or a 15lb aluminum.

I know aluminum will be alittle better for performance. But will it give me alot of chatter and be hard to drive ?

The CTS-v weights 4000lbs with me in it, I just want to make sure the aluminum flywheel can handle it and be manageable to drive with ..

Thanks.

Big-K-Performance

iTrader: (1)

I am running a Fidanza aluminum flywheel at 12.5 lbs with a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. I have no chatter but it takes a little to get used to the lighter flywheel because the loss of inertia but it is very drivable. My Centerforce has recently expired so I am looking for a stouter clutch to handle 600 to 650 RWHP which may give me some chatter.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

It all comes down to what you want. I am personally a big fan of lighter assemblies as they allow the car to be more responsive, especially in mid to high RPM usage. That being said, steel will feel more stock like, though most aftermarket steel units are actually lighter than the stock cast piece. Our's for instance has a shipped weight of 26-lbs and an actual weight of about 24-lbs.

Our aluminum unit weighs in at 14-lbs shipped weight and about 12-lbs. actual. So there is a fairly significant difference. Let me know what kind of torque you are making and what kind of usage the car will see and I will be happy to provide more info. Thanks,

thesource

iTrader: (60)

Typically I would suggest going with the steel flywheel in heavier street applications.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I actually just checked to see what's in the CTS-V sitting in the parking lot. It's Steel! But, it still comes down to what you want. We have sold plenty of both.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

For a heavy car like the CTS-V, I'd probably go with the 28lbs steel flywheel - the stock piece of heavy for a reason, and that is to help get that car off the line from a stand still.

I run a lightweight assembly in my car (the entire clutch assembly weighs 37lbs), and with 4.11 gears, it is tolerable on the street, but it is noticeable how much more effort it takes to get the car off the line smoothly without overheating the clutch from slipping it too much.

I'd be careful with this one...you could end up with a clutch that makes the car not much fun to drive on the street.

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

I don't generally recommend something as light as the aluminum flywheel in a heavy car like the CTSV. You're already cutting the weight down significantly from stock by the sound of it, I'd leave it at that because drivability will definitely suffer with the aluminum setup in your car. You can "relearn" to drive the car to account for alot of it, but it still won't be the same car. Plus, the inertia when launching from a dig in a race is beneficial in a heavy car, so it's not just a drivability thing.

Chris05ssTruck

iTrader: (9)

4k pounds...im with everyone else on this one. Just too heavy. Like stated above..u are already saving a lot of weight over the stocker.

maxspeed96ct

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the input guys, think im going to go with steel.




Hey SPEC-01 Sent you a PM for a price spec kit, also does the spec require any shims or anything?

I want to buy a stage 2 clutch and steel fly , will I have everything i need or am I going to have to hunt for shims and sapcers and etc...

Also The car will be making just around 400 to the wheels...

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Max I responded to your PM, so you've got mail! As for the kit, it includes the needed shim. Thus, you won't have to get creative when it comes to setting this unit up. I am in the office until 5pm today so give me a shout and we can talk options. Thanks and I look forward to speaking with you.

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Don't waste your money getting the stage 2+, I had that exact same clutch and right at 400 wheel it was starting to slip on the dyno. If I were you I would get a stage 3+, as we all know the modding never ends so it's better to be safe than sorry. I am currently running a Monster Level 5 and I Love it. Just my .02.

maxspeed96ct

iTrader: (3)

ya i kniow what you mean by modding never ends.. But my car is kindof my Daily i want to drive nice and be reliable still ..

Im wondering if I shoukld spend the extra money and get the monster Kit, but im alttile nervus with that setup to after reading about the batch of bad kits the had out...

bmartin8

I went with alum with the ls7 clutch. Its going in today so ill let you know how it drives. From what I have read, alum has its advantages, but if your clutch assem is light too, then you might have some drivability issues. However, the ls7 assem was like 30 some pounds and the flywheel was 16, so I dont think it will be as bad as some people are saying. I dont think its going to be that huge of a deal with the ls7 clutch, but im not sure on other setups.

Chris05ssTruck

iTrader: (9)

EVERYbody has their problems. Steve is a stand up guy and made it right, most would have covered that up and not done ****. He made it right....comming from a guy who was one of them. IMO u can't beat that and the warr. that comes w/ the unit. MY buddie had a spec 3+ made NOwhere near what they are rated and it slipped all the damn time...even part throttle. Everyone has their problems; it's how they react that matters.

maxspeed96ct

iTrader: (3)

good point.

man I didnt think clutch shopping would be this much of a pain in the butt.

Ive been reading stuff for about a week now and im still not sure what to do.

being a baller on a budget doesnt help either ya know?

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

I had one of the 28 that were bad. Let me tell you Steve over at monster took care of me and hooked me up big time. They stand behind there stuff 100% and there warranty is awesome too. You should have no worries about there kits, I have extreme confidence in their company and their product, even after all the stuff that I went through. If that doesn't convince you I don't know what will, lol.

maxspeed96ct

iTrader: (3)

k im convinced, but im still not sure which to buy because..

- I can get a ls7 fly and clutch for $427 , then a spacer for $90 or Ls2 slave for $200 total $517 or $627

-Spec steel fly and stage 2 for $615 total

-Or the monster kit for $1,000 which is kindof a big chunk of change to me.. ( but it also includes a slave cyl)


I dont drag race the car but I sure do drive it hard and do some highway runs once in a while....

Chris05ssTruck

iTrader: (9)

Be sure u are comparing the same power ratings as well. The LS7 clutch is know to hate digs/track. U are more than likley looking at a kit w/ slave etc., prem package includes more than the others.

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

A great man I knew always said these words and I think they make sense in this situation, "You can pay me now or you can pay me later, either way you'll end up paying." Basically what it means is don't be a cheap person with the things that matter...

-don't go the doctor, you'll end up with something that kills you.
-buy the cheap alcohol, you'll end up with a worse hangover.
-buy the cheaper clutch kit, it will fail and you'll have to buy another one.

It kinds works for a lot of stuff LOL.

maxspeed96ct

iTrader: (3)

Ture , i know the clutch is important and I want to make sure I pick the right one, ive beensearching for over a week and still havent pulled the trigger...

Might just wait a little longer and get the monster...