MONSTER LEVEL 6 AND STOCK MC, it's done!
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MONSTER LEVEL 6 AND STOCK MC, it's done!
OK guys, I know that some of you know that their is a rumor, and a misunderstanding of needing or HAVING to run an ADJ MC with a Monster Clutch (latest rumor has it that ALL Levels need an Adj MC). Alot of this came out because of a RECOMMENDATION that Monster makes when running their clutch. Without getting into the stock hydros' and how bad they suck (plenty of threads on taht already), I asked a very good customer of Morris Motorsports if I could use his car as a guinea pig, and he agreed.
What I wanted to do was install the baddest of the bad (Level 6), and run it with his stock 60K+ mile MC, to put that rumor to bed.
Car is a bolt on car, that (their was some video put up a few weeks ago) the clutch (stock replacement) was slipping VERY bad on nitrous, at teh track. Car went 12.90's @ 111 on street tires, on motor. On the only nitrous attempt, it went a 12.50 @ 117 on a 100 shot (again, clutch slipped BAAAD).
So, I yanked his stock clutch out, only to find that his bellhousing was cracked in 2 places. So, we put my Mcleod SFI Bell in, and got the Level 6 Monster (with new slave), and I put our own speed bleeder on while I had the tranny out. Got her all buttoned back up, got it bled in @ 3 minutes (not a misprint).
Now, while I have NOT been back to teh track yet (still under break in mileage), I do have enough miles on it, that I have been able to be pretty agressive on it.
Results?
Perfect! Clutch performs flawlessly, stock MC does what it is supposed to, and it drives BETTER than the stock clutch. (maybe tranny shifts so good because it also has a Morris Motorsports Level 2 rebuild..haha)
This is my first Level 6 install on a "street car", and I have no doubt, that after putting close to 300 miles on it so far @ town, that it will hold up to DD material. Chatter you ask? Yes, a little bit in reverse, and hardly any in 1st, and that's it. None at idle, in neutral, in 1st, with pedal in.
Now, when I get to track, we will post up HONEST results (with video) to close it once and for all that you DO NOT NEED a Adj MC with a Monster Clutch, ANY Level. Will you benefit from a Adj MC (like the one from TICK)? Sure, because I am sure that once we get to teh track, that we will find teh limits of teh stock hydro's. But,we will see.
And another reason I posted this thread was because I have actually yet to install a Monster Clutch with anything BUT a stock MC, and they all teh leave teh shop driving perfect. So, when I read a thread and someone says "Oh, you HAVE to run a ADJ MC with a Monster" I just cringe when I read that.
So, I really believe that MOST of these problems people incur are due to the lack of knowledge or know how on how to PROPERLY bleed the hydro's on our car.
If I can get a Level 6 Monster Clutch to drive and shift perfect with a stock 60K miles MC, I am sure that with a little work, you can to.
Any questions or comments, feel free to fire away..that is what we are here for.
What I wanted to do was install the baddest of the bad (Level 6), and run it with his stock 60K+ mile MC, to put that rumor to bed.
Car is a bolt on car, that (their was some video put up a few weeks ago) the clutch (stock replacement) was slipping VERY bad on nitrous, at teh track. Car went 12.90's @ 111 on street tires, on motor. On the only nitrous attempt, it went a 12.50 @ 117 on a 100 shot (again, clutch slipped BAAAD).
So, I yanked his stock clutch out, only to find that his bellhousing was cracked in 2 places. So, we put my Mcleod SFI Bell in, and got the Level 6 Monster (with new slave), and I put our own speed bleeder on while I had the tranny out. Got her all buttoned back up, got it bled in @ 3 minutes (not a misprint).
Now, while I have NOT been back to teh track yet (still under break in mileage), I do have enough miles on it, that I have been able to be pretty agressive on it.
Results?
Perfect! Clutch performs flawlessly, stock MC does what it is supposed to, and it drives BETTER than the stock clutch. (maybe tranny shifts so good because it also has a Morris Motorsports Level 2 rebuild..haha)
This is my first Level 6 install on a "street car", and I have no doubt, that after putting close to 300 miles on it so far @ town, that it will hold up to DD material. Chatter you ask? Yes, a little bit in reverse, and hardly any in 1st, and that's it. None at idle, in neutral, in 1st, with pedal in.
Now, when I get to track, we will post up HONEST results (with video) to close it once and for all that you DO NOT NEED a Adj MC with a Monster Clutch, ANY Level. Will you benefit from a Adj MC (like the one from TICK)? Sure, because I am sure that once we get to teh track, that we will find teh limits of teh stock hydro's. But,we will see.
And another reason I posted this thread was because I have actually yet to install a Monster Clutch with anything BUT a stock MC, and they all teh leave teh shop driving perfect. So, when I read a thread and someone says "Oh, you HAVE to run a ADJ MC with a Monster" I just cringe when I read that.
So, I really believe that MOST of these problems people incur are due to the lack of knowledge or know how on how to PROPERLY bleed the hydro's on our car.
If I can get a Level 6 Monster Clutch to drive and shift perfect with a stock 60K miles MC, I am sure that with a little work, you can to.
Any questions or comments, feel free to fire away..that is what we are here for.
Last edited by Gen414; 09-29-2009 at 01:39 PM.
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I have serious issues with this "break-in" stuff. Are you really supposed to break in a STAGE 6 clutch? I thought that was an all out race clutch? Won't breaking it in just wear the hell out of it? I understand heat cycles are needed to seat the material but its hard for me to believe guys with big motors (S.A.M., Tim Tosto, Tanner B, the list goes on) put 300 miles on their clutch before taking it to the track.
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Again, thanks for letting us "guinea pig" your car. We all know that teh level 6 is way overkill for your car right now, so props to you for letting us put that "aggressive" of a clutch in your car, just so I can do some testing and to try and help others out. So, thank YOU (not to mention let us drive your car, put the miles on it so I can personally put the feedback up) Thanks for having that type of trust in us. But, now that she is done, you can have your baby back....well, after I install our 92MM TB on it first
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I have serious issues with this "break-in" stuff. Are you really supposed to break in a STAGE 6 clutch? I thought that was an all out race clutch? Won't breaking it in just wear the hell out of it? I understand heat cycles are needed to seat the material but its hard for me to believe guys with big motors (S.A.M., Tim Tosto, Tanner B, the list goes on) put 300 miles on their clutch before taking it to the track.
For a race car..no. For a street car (like this one) yes.
And, it's not like you HAVE to. But to get the most mileage out of it, again, for a street car like this, a proper break in should be performed. Now, is 300 miles overkill for this clutch...break in? Yeah, probaly so. But a little extra caution on an expensive clutch like this...why risk it?
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I have serious issues with this "break-in" stuff. Are you really supposed to break in a STAGE 6 clutch? I thought that was an all out race clutch? Won't breaking it in just wear the hell out of it? I understand heat cycles are needed to seat the material but its hard for me to believe guys with big motors (S.A.M., Tim Tosto, Tanner B, the list goes on) put 300 miles on their clutch before taking it to the track.
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Again, thanks for letting us "guinea pig" your car. We all know that teh level 6 is way overkill for your car right now, so props to you for letting us put that "aggressive" of a clutch in your car, just so I can do some testing and to try and help others out. So, thank YOU (not to mention let us drive your car, put the miles on it so I can personally put the feedback up) Thanks for having that type of trust in us. But, now that she is done, you can have your baby back....well, after I install our 92MM TB on it first
Thanks Derrick!
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Whoops Hey don't worry though, I only bounced it off of 1 car.
Cool, glad to hear. With the latest "goosip" flying around, was hoping that a thread of this sort could squash it. Because in reality, you (mikey) and this customers car (Fun Formula) are teh norm, and NOT teh exception (running stock MC and Monster) but all it takes is a few "publicized threads" and people start thinking the other way.
FunFormula...just so you know, your car is going to teh track on Friday..OK?
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I installed a Monster 3.5 and their light flywheel. Stock Fbody slave (new) and stock GTO master (original with 55k on it) Drives wonderfully, big difference between the stocker and the Monster. After about 350-400 miles, I could tell a difference in the way it grabbed when starting from a stop. I did a 500 mile breakin, as that is what was recommended for the longest life.
I am very happy with the 3.5. Love it
I am very happy with the 3.5. Love it
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No worries, we are putting in a Dana 60 next.....(sooner than later I betcha )
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I installed a Monster 3.5 and their light flywheel. Stock Fbody slave (new) and stock GTO master (original with 55k on it) Drives wonderfully, big difference between the stocker and the Monster. After about 350-400 miles, I could tell a difference in the way it grabbed when starting from a stop. I did a 500 mile breakin, as that is what was recommended for the longest life.
I am very happy with the 3.5. Love it
I am very happy with the 3.5. Love it
great, glad to hear it. This is what I was hoping would come of this thread....people that are running the stock mc with a Monster to come forward, to give some assurance to those that might be "on teh fence".
Thanks guys...keep em coming..
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Whats wrong with people thinking they need our master? LOL In reality our master is only "needed" if your car is having a dissengagement issue, which is quite often after switching to a beefier aftermarket clutch/pressure plate of any brand. Also, a bolt on car shifting at 6,000 rpms is quite a different animal than a cammed car shifting at 7,000+ rpms.
Even for those who don't have dissengagement issues, our cylinder offers less restriction to the fluid flow which will decrease heat by decreasing clutch slip. The fluid not only flows to the slave quicker for quicker shifts, it returns quicker. That along with the fact that the throw is usually reduced with our cylinder will provide quicker, smoother shifts for just about everyone. Not to mention it will increase clutch life.
By keeping new clean fluid in the stocker, you may be able to shift like a champ. People did this for 10 years before we came out with our cylinder.
Even for those who don't have dissengagement issues, our cylinder offers less restriction to the fluid flow which will decrease heat by decreasing clutch slip. The fluid not only flows to the slave quicker for quicker shifts, it returns quicker. That along with the fact that the throw is usually reduced with our cylinder will provide quicker, smoother shifts for just about everyone. Not to mention it will increase clutch life.
By keeping new clean fluid in the stocker, you may be able to shift like a champ. People did this for 10 years before we came out with our cylinder.
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Originally Posted by Gen414
Now, when I get to track, we will post up HONEST results (with video) to close it once and for all that you DO NOT NEED a Adj MC with a Monster Clutch, ANY Level. Will you benefit from a Adj MC (like the one from TICK)? Sure, because I am sure that once we get to teh track, that we will find teh limits of teh stock hydro's. But,we will see.
It is cammed now
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Yes, and no. PM coming
Don't get me wrong Jonathan, your MC sells itself. It is a great product, and one that has helped our cars many a time over. The ONLY reason i started this thread was because of the "latest rumor" that you HAD to have your MC to run a Monster Clutch is all, and I wanted to squash that. People look at a Monster, and then say, OK, have to spend "X" dollars on teh clutch, AND I HAVE TO BUY A TICK MC???? Alot of guys that bothers, so they go buy a cheaper clutch, as they can't afford a Monster AND a adj MC.
If you read my first post a little closer, I even say..."Will you benefit from a Adj MC (like the one from TICK)? Sure, because I am sure that once we get to teh track, that we will find teh limits of teh stock hydro's."
Well, we are gonna find out that's for sure, with video. But guys, do NOT turn this thread into ANYTHING BUT a thread that is started to assure those that buy a Monster, that they HAVE to buy a TICK MC as well, as they DON'T HAVE to,ok?
I am NOT ******* on teh Tick, it is a great product, no doubt. Not sure how many times I need to say that. Hell, I HAVE ONE IN MY CAR!!!
The stock MC is an inferior piece, but you DON"T HAVE TO HAVE a Tick to run a Monster is the point of this thread. ESPECIALLY if you don't run your car at teh track. So far, on the street the stock MC has performed just fine.
Whats wrong with people thinking they need our master? LOL In reality our master is only "needed" if your car is having a dissengagement issue, which is quite often after switching to a beefier aftermarket clutch/pressure plate of any brand. Also, a bolt on car shifting at 6,000 rpms is quite a different animal than a cammed car shifting at 7,000+ rpms.
Even for those who don't have dissengagement issues, our cylinder offers less restriction to the fluid flow which will decrease heat by decreasing clutch slip. The fluid not only flows to the slave quicker for quicker shifts, it returns quicker. That along with the fact that the throw is usually reduced with our cylinder will provide quicker, smoother shifts for just about everyone. Not to mention it will increase clutch life.
By keeping new clean fluid in the stocker, you may be able to shift like a champ. People did this for 10 years before we came out with our cylinder.
Even for those who don't have dissengagement issues, our cylinder offers less restriction to the fluid flow which will decrease heat by decreasing clutch slip. The fluid not only flows to the slave quicker for quicker shifts, it returns quicker. That along with the fact that the throw is usually reduced with our cylinder will provide quicker, smoother shifts for just about everyone. Not to mention it will increase clutch life.
By keeping new clean fluid in the stocker, you may be able to shift like a champ. People did this for 10 years before we came out with our cylinder.
Don't get me wrong Jonathan, your MC sells itself. It is a great product, and one that has helped our cars many a time over. The ONLY reason i started this thread was because of the "latest rumor" that you HAD to have your MC to run a Monster Clutch is all, and I wanted to squash that. People look at a Monster, and then say, OK, have to spend "X" dollars on teh clutch, AND I HAVE TO BUY A TICK MC???? Alot of guys that bothers, so they go buy a cheaper clutch, as they can't afford a Monster AND a adj MC.
If you read my first post a little closer, I even say..."Will you benefit from a Adj MC (like the one from TICK)? Sure, because I am sure that once we get to teh track, that we will find teh limits of teh stock hydro's."
Well, we are gonna find out that's for sure, with video. But guys, do NOT turn this thread into ANYTHING BUT a thread that is started to assure those that buy a Monster, that they HAVE to buy a TICK MC as well, as they DON'T HAVE to,ok?
I am NOT ******* on teh Tick, it is a great product, no doubt. Not sure how many times I need to say that. Hell, I HAVE ONE IN MY CAR!!!
The stock MC is an inferior piece, but you DON"T HAVE TO HAVE a Tick to run a Monster is the point of this thread. ESPECIALLY if you don't run your car at teh track. So far, on the street the stock MC has performed just fine.
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Correct, and that was the ONLY reason I started this thread. Nothing at all against you guys. You guys have top notch stuff, no denying that. Like I said before, I have your MC, and have bought other stuff from you guys in the past as well. You have been great to work with, and I have NO problems admitting that.