HELP! Pedal pressure, not engaging, new everything!
08-10-2010, 08:04 PM
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HELP! Pedal pressure, not engaging, new everything! So I put in a McLeod cluth and pressure plate, Fidanza flywheel and a new slave, slave shim, and master cylinder. I have bled the system the classic way, the mighty vac method, and the hose from the bleeder valve into a cup of hydraulic fluid as said in the shop manual. I have a pedal, but it won't go into gear, thus it won't engage 
. I'm at a stand still with this thing and have no idea were to go from here. I also checked for leaks, and everything is dry. I'm guessing there's a big fricken air pocket in there, but I dno how to get it out.
Please Help!
. I'm at a stand still with this thing and have no idea were to go from here. I also checked for leaks, and everything is dry. I'm guessing there's a big fricken air pocket in there, but I dno how to get it out.Please Help!
08-11-2010, 09:08 AM
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Please detail the exact method you used to bleed the system from start to finish.
Bleeding out all the air is very difficult, especially if you don't bench bleed
the master. Chances are you have some air in the line and you will need
to access the slave valve to purge the system.
YOu will find that without a hoist, or getting the car up on 4 jack-stands
with good height that accessing the valve is near impossible.
I've actually use a metal circular drill bit to cut a 1.5" access hole next to the
accelerator pedal which makes getting the socket onto the bleed valve
effortless. It will also enable you to bleed to system by yourself.
Anyway, if you can oultine your process I'm sure we can help you figure out
some of the possible issues and offer help. If you get frustrated trying to
access the bleed valve and want to try drilling, I can post the measurements
to get you bang on first time.
All you'll need is some paint and sealer to treat the metal to prevent rust.
I used a thin metal plate, some silicone to cover the hole and then placed
the carpet back into place. You'd never know there was a hole there.
Bleeding out all the air is very difficult, especially if you don't bench bleed
the master. Chances are you have some air in the line and you will need
to access the slave valve to purge the system.
YOu will find that without a hoist, or getting the car up on 4 jack-stands
with good height that accessing the valve is near impossible.
I've actually use a metal circular drill bit to cut a 1.5" access hole next to the
accelerator pedal which makes getting the socket onto the bleed valve
effortless. It will also enable you to bleed to system by yourself.
Anyway, if you can oultine your process I'm sure we can help you figure out
some of the possible issues and offer help. If you get frustrated trying to
access the bleed valve and want to try drilling, I can post the measurements
to get you bang on first time.
All you'll need is some paint and sealer to treat the metal to prevent rust.
I used a thin metal plate, some silicone to cover the hole and then placed
the carpet back into place. You'd never know there was a hole there.
08-11-2010, 12:58 PM
#3
Launching!
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Well first i tried bleeding it by loosening the bleeder skrew, having somebody press down on the pedal, tighten the skrew, and then pull up the pedal.
Then I tried the mighty vac method( http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm )
I also tried loosening the bleeder skrew, putting a snug fitting hose on it, and submerging the other the end in hydraulic fluid, and burping the system by pumping on the pedal.
All methods got air out, but it still won't engage.
Then I tried the mighty vac method( http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm )
I also tried loosening the bleeder skrew, putting a snug fitting hose on it, and submerging the other the end in hydraulic fluid, and burping the system by pumping on the pedal.
All methods got air out, but it still won't engage.
08-13-2010, 07:53 PM
#4
Launching!
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ok, so nobody has given me any further insight, so i put another new master into it and bench bled it. Then I bled it the old fashioned way; open, pump close...
Still nothing. I have a good feeling pedal, but it won't let me get into gear.
Any suggestions? Or am I skrewed and have to change my slave again too?
Still nothing. I have a good feeling pedal, but it won't let me get into gear.
Any suggestions? Or am I skrewed and have to change my slave again too?
08-13-2010, 08:57 PM
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Are you able to put the tranmission in gear with the engine off?
If yes, will the car jump forward when you try start it EVEN WITH THE CLUTCH
PEDAL PRESSED?
** Be sure you chock the wheels, and you're away from anything before
trying this.
The car WILL move forward while cranking if the shimming is not correct.
If this is the case, you most likely need to shim the slave, or get a larger
master (I think the McLeod model is also adjustable).
Shimming requires removing the transmission.
If yes, will the car jump forward when you try start it EVEN WITH THE CLUTCH
PEDAL PRESSED?
** Be sure you chock the wheels, and you're away from anything before
trying this.
The car WILL move forward while cranking if the shimming is not correct.
If this is the case, you most likely need to shim the slave, or get a larger
master (I think the McLeod model is also adjustable).
Shimming requires removing the transmission.
Last edited by Adrenaline_Z; 08-13-2010 at 08:59 PM. Reason: forgot a line in CAPS!
08-14-2010, 09:34 PM
#6
Launching!
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yes it does lurch forward even with the clutch depressed. I also used a speed inc slave shim when i put it all back together. The master I used was and LUK unit, which was the same one that was in the car when I bought it and it worked fine. So its just a bad slave then?
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08-15-2010, 11:16 PM
#8
Launching!
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No, I just have a stock replacement one. That's wierd that I would need one now when I didn't have an adjustable one before
Last edited by 2000BlackM6; 08-16-2010 at 11:17 AM. Reason: mispelling
08-16-2010, 12:05 AM
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I replaced both my master and slave and also installed a slave extension for easy bleeding. My original master went dry while bleeding and I had to pump the pedal 3-4 times to get it to go into gear. Anyway, the master I got from GM was already filled with fluid - the slave was dry. I submerged the end of the slave extenion in a glass jar of brake fluid and hooked a motive power bleeder to the reservoir and applied 10psi of pressure and then opened the submerged slave extension and tightened once the bubbles stopped, and it's been great for over 2 years.
