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Can't get Tick Master Cylinder Disconnected!

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Old 07-10-2011, 07:28 PM
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Default Can't get Tick Master Cylinder Disconnected!

Need some help, I can't seem to get my Tick Master disconnected from my slave cylinder. I've tried pushing the plastic ring in with two screw drivers, tried pushing the fitting in and using the screw drivers, etc.

Anyone have any tips, or its there some sort of tool I'm unaware of to get the thing off?

Car is a 99 T/A
Old 07-10-2011, 08:14 PM
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go to your local parts store and get the A/C our fuel line disconnect tools
Old 07-10-2011, 08:16 PM
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Thanks, will do!
Old 07-10-2011, 08:23 PM
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get the metal disconnects! the plastic ones are garbage!
Old 07-10-2011, 08:29 PM
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Alright, will make sure I get a metal one. The thing thats odd is the stock master disconnected w/o a problem using the method I mentioned.
Old 07-17-2011, 07:00 PM
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I went and got the metal disconnect tool from the auto-parts store. I still can't get the master cylinder to disconnect from the slave. I've pushed the line in again and have even pushed on the disconnect tool with an open end wrench braced on the floorpan for more leverage. Got no idea what to do now!
Old 07-17-2011, 07:12 PM
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They suck just keep working it, I used a small pick and push it in pretty hard and got it to release.
Old 07-17-2011, 07:15 PM
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I mean the thing has to move in right? Very frustrating, I dont recall the stock one being such an issue.
Old 07-17-2011, 08:10 PM
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Tried it again damn thing wont budge
Old 07-17-2011, 09:05 PM
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I had the same problem, i could not get mine off, i took the bleeder valve and opened it and then tried to disconnect it and that worked. I guess it was the pressure that was on it would not let it come loose or something, try that and get back with me on it.
Old 07-17-2011, 09:16 PM
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Thanks for the tip, I just went out and tried it. I opened the remote bleeder, but its still stuck as stuck gets. The plastic is starting to get pretty deformed from all the heavy prying, have no idea what to do.
Old 07-17-2011, 09:31 PM
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I pulled mine out with by bare hands, I don't know ifi t helps but I cracked the bleeder valve open in thoughts that it will relieve some of the pressure. Seems to work fine.
Old 07-17-2011, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 99blkt/a
Thanks for the tip, I just went out and tried it. I opened the remote bleeder, but its still stuck as stuck gets. The plastic is starting to get pretty deformed from all the heavy prying, have no idea what to do.
Maybe push in on the clutch with the bleeder open i guess, that might have been what i did. I think there was pressure on mine not allowing it to move. I am not 100% sure.

Not sure if you know how it works or not when releasing, when you press in on the plastic peice it pushes a few large sized teeth out of a groove area so the hose end will release. Hope that gives a better idea of what it looks like to ya. I can't remember 100% how it looks but that is basicaly how it works.
Old 07-17-2011, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by nmass399
Maybe push in on the clutch with the bleeder open i guess, that might have been what i did. I think there was pressure on mine not allowing it to move. I am not 100% sure.

Not sure if you know how it works or not when releasing, when you press in on the plastic peice it pushes a few large sized teeth out of a groove area so the hose end will release. Hope that gives a better idea of what it looks like to ya. I can't remember 100% how it looks but that is basicaly how it works.
From what I can tell my slave cylinder is totally gone, the pedal just drops to the floor when the clutch pedal is touched you don't even really have to press it. I would imagine it doesnt have any pressure. It just seems like the ring can't move inward like something is obstructing it. I didn't install the Master, clutch, slave when it was last done, starting to wonder whats up with it. That and this slave cylinder only lasted 10 months, so whats going on with that?? I don't take the car to the track or drive it hard.
Old 07-17-2011, 09:55 PM
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Are you using a oem slave cylinder or a different cheaper type, i was thinking if its not the oem it might not last as long. The oem one i put in has lasted about a year now and works fine.

As for the piece not going in and the obstruction thats not a very good sign at all, really not sure what you need to do man
Old 07-17-2011, 10:00 PM
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First, I appreciate all the help so far.

As far as the slave, its an oem slave I got off of ws6store, but as mentioned I didnt install it so who knows what could have happened.
I'm debating if i could pull the tranny down, disconnect the slave form the tranny, then attempt to remove that fitting. If i get the slave out I could then possibly cut that part off of the slave, pull the master out and try to disconnect it on top of a workbench instead of on my back. That sound viable?

Wonder if the guys from Tick have any ideas whats going on???
Old 07-17-2011, 11:09 PM
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Your welcome man, i know how frustrating something like that can be. Thats about all i would know to do, gotta pull the trans anyway to change the slave out so you would not be doing anything extra there. Alot easier to work on it on a work bench then on your back lol. Hope you get it fixed man, when i could not get mine unhooked i was about to go crazy.
Old 07-19-2011, 12:19 AM
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So far this has been more frustrating than the rusted shock shaft and mounts I had to drill out and split with a dremel tool at 4 am....
Old 07-20-2011, 04:34 PM
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Shoot our techs an email here if you'd like another opinion, they stay too busy this time of year to patrol the forums: http://www.tick-performance.com/tech/
Old 07-21-2011, 06:39 PM
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More than likely a couple of the teeth from the little metal ring in the slave got bent over when the line was connected back into the slave. I had this exact same thing happen and the bitch would NOT come off.

I got lucky and only a two of the teeth were bent over so with an ungodly amount of prying and pulling it came off. That might be what's causing the problem but doesn't really give a solution.


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