problem with my new T-56
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
problem with my new T-56
I just got in the transmission I ordered from t-56 magnum. After installation we had a problem that the gear wouldnt go in. If we turn of the car put it in gear with the cluth and try to start it would jump as if the clutch wasnt there. We have a master cylinder from Tick and we played around with the adjustment and no change. Soo we put a shim between the slave cylinder and transmission and then the gears would go in but we have to really really force them in. Its a 2001 camaro with a mcload RXT clutch. Should i need to add more shims? What can we do to fix this?
one of friend recommend to replace the F-body slave cylinder with C5-zo6 one !!
i'm wondering about this ! is there any Different of the inner diameter of the throw out bearing ??
thanks
one of friend recommend to replace the F-body slave cylinder with C5-zo6 one !!
i'm wondering about this ! is there any Different of the inner diameter of the throw out bearing ??
thanks
#5
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#8
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iTrader: (5)
First, let me apologize for not getting back in touch with you sooner. I think I replied to an email from you, but the amount of tech help emails we get these days is mind boggling. I was also out of the shop last week on Thursday through Saturday.
There is a good thread on here that will help you determine if a shim is necessary: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
With that said, adding shim will never solve a disengagement issue. The only way adding shim will ever help your problem is if the throw out bearing actually bottoms out and begins to pre-load itself against the fingers of the pressure plate. If you take all the clearance out as described in the link above and pre-load the pressure plate your clutch will soon begin to slip.
Our reason for adding shim is to get the desired clearance between the fully seated tob and the pressure plate fingers. Too much clearance could result in slave cylinder failure when using our master. Otherwise, there is no reason or benefit for adding a shim. I've went into great detail on why and how this works in other threads, but basically there is a spring under the tob that constantly maintains the adjustment of the overall hydraulic system.
For your issue, I would first verify that the hydraulics are bled properly. The pedal should feel firm with no mushy area at the top of its travel. There should be minimal free play. To test if the master itself is bled properly, disconnect the line from the slave and BY HAND apply light pressure to the pedal. The pedal should feel rock solid if the master is in good working order and is fully bled.
If the bleed is good, you are probably left with removing the transmission to measure for a shim. Make sure that the clutch assembly is assembled properly and torqued down. Make sure the disks are positioned correctly. You may need to measure the stack height of the clutch assembly while torqued to the flywheel.
If everything is bled properly, its likely your issue is with the clutch. If nothing seems obvious you may have to contact Mcleod for suggestions and the proper stack height dimensions. I have seen some twin disk clutches warp the divider steel plate which will cause bad disengagement issues even with our master adjusted to its max.
There is a good thread on here that will help you determine if a shim is necessary: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
With that said, adding shim will never solve a disengagement issue. The only way adding shim will ever help your problem is if the throw out bearing actually bottoms out and begins to pre-load itself against the fingers of the pressure plate. If you take all the clearance out as described in the link above and pre-load the pressure plate your clutch will soon begin to slip.
Our reason for adding shim is to get the desired clearance between the fully seated tob and the pressure plate fingers. Too much clearance could result in slave cylinder failure when using our master. Otherwise, there is no reason or benefit for adding a shim. I've went into great detail on why and how this works in other threads, but basically there is a spring under the tob that constantly maintains the adjustment of the overall hydraulic system.
For your issue, I would first verify that the hydraulics are bled properly. The pedal should feel firm with no mushy area at the top of its travel. There should be minimal free play. To test if the master itself is bled properly, disconnect the line from the slave and BY HAND apply light pressure to the pedal. The pedal should feel rock solid if the master is in good working order and is fully bled.
If the bleed is good, you are probably left with removing the transmission to measure for a shim. Make sure that the clutch assembly is assembled properly and torqued down. Make sure the disks are positioned correctly. You may need to measure the stack height of the clutch assembly while torqued to the flywheel.
If everything is bled properly, its likely your issue is with the clutch. If nothing seems obvious you may have to contact Mcleod for suggestions and the proper stack height dimensions. I have seen some twin disk clutches warp the divider steel plate which will cause bad disengagement issues even with our master adjusted to its max.
#10
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Finally, the issue is resolved
The reason is , clutch kit ( RXT )
i try and install the old clutch kit RST and its work fine and the trans shift smooth
with no any problem
My question is:
how can the clutch damage and its new ?
The reason is , clutch kit ( RXT )
i try and install the old clutch kit RST and its work fine and the trans shift smooth
with no any problem
My question is:
how can the clutch damage and its new ?