Spec clutch Yes or No?
01-26-2012, 10:32 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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Spec clutch Yes or No? I recently got an ls1 drop out of a gto for my 87 notch. I pulled the trans to find a spec clutch. Was debating on using because I have heard good and bad about them. It is either a stage 2 or 2+ and I am hoping for around 400whp. It has some life left on it but there are grooves on pressure plate/clutch disc. Not sure if I should go ahead and use it or just get an ls7 clutch. Here are some pics what do you guys think?
01-27-2012, 09:48 PM
#2
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I am a major newbie to these forums, but my vote is LS7 - I have had several friends over the past decade that have owned F-bodies and the spec clutches never seem to fair very well. A friend with an 02 WS6 had his spec stage 2 wear completely out in less than a year (with basic bolt ons). Another friend had a higher horsepower setup (500 whp) with a spec stage 5 and the clutch wouldn't even hold on in 4th/5th gear.. it would slip like crazy.
Last edited by Onyx_Black_Z28; 06-14-2020 at 07:19 PM.
01-28-2012, 01:19 PM
#3
that clutch does have some life left in it...but with that said it is like putting on used brake pads and given a clutch swap is more labor intensive than a brake job I would replace it with a new clutch and resurface the FW if it is within spec.
My experience with the 2+ was it held well the 1st season but died a horrible death on starting line season 2. If the car is mostly strip only Kevlar may be OK but on a street driven car it will glaze and not hold as well in just stop/go city driving use. Not saying SPEC makes a bad product but Kevlar is not a disc friction material I would use again on a street/strip car.
The more aggressive the disc material is the faster the clutch will wear (PP & FW) so as you move into stage 2,3,4,etc levels of clutch the holding power is greater but lifespan is shorter than a organic disc clutch. Although organic disc clutches don't handle the power so it is a trade off.
Twin disc clutch would resolve that but you move into the $1k+ category for clutch
My experience with the 2+ was it held well the 1st season but died a horrible death on starting line season 2. If the car is mostly strip only Kevlar may be OK but on a street driven car it will glaze and not hold as well in just stop/go city driving use. Not saying SPEC makes a bad product but Kevlar is not a disc friction material I would use again on a street/strip car.
The more aggressive the disc material is the faster the clutch will wear (PP & FW) so as you move into stage 2,3,4,etc levels of clutch the holding power is greater but lifespan is shorter than a organic disc clutch. Although organic disc clutches don't handle the power so it is a trade off.
Twin disc clutch would resolve that but you move into the $1k+ category for clutch
01-28-2012, 05:45 PM
#4
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I am a major newbie to these forums, but my vote is LS7 - I have had several friends over the past decade that have owned F-bodies and the spec clutches never seem to fair very well. A friend with an 02 WS6 had his spec stage 2 wear completely out in less than a year (with basic bolt ons). Another friend had a higher horsepower setup (500 whp) with a spec stage 5 and the clutch wouldn't even hold on in 4th/5th gear.. it would slip like crazy.
Not that this is a fair comparison, but I had a spec stage 3 in an MR2 turbo and that thing chattered like crazy from day one... hated that clutch. Hopefully someone with more experience can give you some better info.
Not that this is a fair comparison, but I had a spec stage 3 in an MR2 turbo and that thing chattered like crazy from day one... hated that clutch. Hopefully someone with more experience can give you some better info.
that clutch does have some life left in it...but with that said it is like putting on used brake pads and given a clutch swap is more labor intensive than a brake job I would replace it with a new clutch and resurface the FW if it is within spec.
My experience with the 2+ was it held well the 1st season but died a horrible death on starting line season 2. If the car is mostly strip only Kevlar may be OK but on a street driven car it will glaze and not hold as well in just stop/go city driving use. Not saying SPEC makes a bad product but Kevlar is not a disc friction material I would use again on a street/strip car.
The more aggressive the disc material is the faster the clutch will wear (PP & FW) so as you move into stage 2,3,4,etc levels of clutch the holding power is greater but lifespan is shorter than a organic disc clutch. Although organic disc clutches don't handle the power so it is a trade off.
Twin disc clutch would resolve that but you move into the $1k+ category for clutch
My experience with the 2+ was it held well the 1st season but died a horrible death on starting line season 2. If the car is mostly strip only Kevlar may be OK but on a street driven car it will glaze and not hold as well in just stop/go city driving use. Not saying SPEC makes a bad product but Kevlar is not a disc friction material I would use again on a street/strip car.
The more aggressive the disc material is the faster the clutch will wear (PP & FW) so as you move into stage 2,3,4,etc levels of clutch the holding power is greater but lifespan is shorter than a organic disc clutch. Although organic disc clutches don't handle the power so it is a trade off.
Twin disc clutch would resolve that but you move into the $1k+ category for clutch
01-30-2012, 03:29 PM
#6
Actually, there is no real way to tell how much "life" is left in a clutch by looking at pics. You need to measure the thickness of the disc. Additionally, it is good to know when and where the parts were bought too. Buying used parts can be a risky proposition either way. Let me know what you find relative to the disc thickness and I will be happy to provide input.
Additionally, clutch life and wear are relative to a number of factors including torque output, usage type, flatness of the flywheel the kit is installed and used with, etc...
Additionally, clutch life and wear are relative to a number of factors including torque output, usage type, flatness of the flywheel the kit is installed and used with, etc...
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01-31-2012, 09:55 AM
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Actually, there is no real way to tell how much "life" is left in a clutch by looking at pics. You need to measure the thickness of the disc. Additionally, it is good to know when and where the parts were bought too. Buying used parts can be a risky proposition either way. Let me know what you find relative to the disc thickness and I will be happy to provide input.
Additionally, clutch life and wear are relative to a number of factors including torque output, usage type, flatness of the flywheel the kit is installed and used with, etc...
Additionally, clutch life and wear are relative to a number of factors including torque output, usage type, flatness of the flywheel the kit is installed and used with, etc...
01-31-2012, 02:47 PM
#10
The grooving on the lower/bottom of the disc evidences one of two possible occurences:
1) That the pucks are worn enough that they are beginning to allow the rivets to touch the plate surface (this is why I asked about thickness earlier).
2) that the inner edge has gotten hot and allows for material to build up as the material was melted, moved, redeposited and cooled.
Seeing the flywheel would be great. Do you have shots of it?
1) That the pucks are worn enough that they are beginning to allow the rivets to touch the plate surface (this is why I asked about thickness earlier).
2) that the inner edge has gotten hot and allows for material to build up as the material was melted, moved, redeposited and cooled.
Seeing the flywheel would be great. Do you have shots of it?
01-31-2012, 08:15 PM
#11
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The grooving on the lower/bottom of the disc evidences one of two possible occurences:
1) That the pucks are worn enough that they are beginning to allow the rivets to touch the plate surface (this is why I asked about thickness earlier).
2) that the inner edge has gotten hot and allows for material to build up as the material was melted, moved, redeposited and cooled.
Seeing the flywheel would be great. Do you have shots of it?
1) That the pucks are worn enough that they are beginning to allow the rivets to touch the plate surface (this is why I asked about thickness earlier).
2) that the inner edge has gotten hot and allows for material to build up as the material was melted, moved, redeposited and cooled.
Seeing the flywheel would be great. Do you have shots of it?
02-05-2012, 11:12 AM
#13
I have given Spec three chances now and all three clutches have failed with the last one failing in less than 2k miles of me installing it. My last was a Spec 5 that someone recommended to me so I went for it thinking there was no way a Spec 5 should start slipping with just heads and cam. Well it squealed engaging from day one so I called to ask about this to find out some do more than others. Mine was more than others but it being a race clutch I was ok with that. Two weekends ago it starts slipping at part throttle in 5th gear just cruising with the wife to dinner. Now its not grabbing even after it heats up. I have the Spec flywheel and clutch with new slave and master. That is my story and I know a good friend that has the Spec 3 that will barely move the car now after about 8k miles of no track time and only street playing.
Your call but that is my experience. Looking for a good clutch now so I can get mine back on the street.
Your call but that is my experience. Looking for a good clutch now so I can get mine back on the street.
02-05-2012, 04:04 PM
#15
When i bought my car it had a spec stage3 in it and after it went i got a ls7 and have never looked back.Its much better for a daily driver but i cant speak for how well it would hold on sticky tires at the track but ive put 40,000 miles on it with a cam and bolts that i beat daily and have never had it slip and when im in traffic my knee never hurts like it did with the spec plus theres no chatter.
02-06-2012, 05:26 AM
#16
Platinum WS6, give out Textralia Race clutch a chance, they've been on the market since 2005 and has a good track run.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...tralia&x=0&y=0
http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...tralia&x=0&y=0
02-06-2012, 02:35 PM
#17
You guys understand that a Stage 3 is not intended to be an OE replacement right. Our closest to stock option is a Stage 1. The stage 3 on the otherhand uses a pucked disc and high-clamp plate and will be a bit more on-and-off in terms of engagement and thus more aggressive in feel than stock. If you want the closest thing to stock then go with a Stage 1, which actually has a higher capacity than your stock unit or the above suggested LS7 unit. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
02-06-2012, 03:53 PM
#18
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just dropped in a monster level 2 in my camaro and right of the box it drives great..no chatter at all...I havent broken it in yet so i cant tell if its going to hold or not..but so far so good
