VandykeT/A

After I got my MWC set up, panhard bar, panhard bar relocation, subframe connectors, LCAs everything looks so.......... aftermarket. My transmission is really the only thing that doesn't look like its been messed with an well it has. Its a Tick level 2. If I ever have to pull it again would there be any negative effects to painting it a silver/aluminum color? This may sound retarded but its just an idea. I wish I had got the optional powdercoating lol. What do you guys think? Maybe the VHT powdercoating in a can?

thesource

iTrader: (60)

I usually paint the units I build. I use a dull aluminum paint designed just for transmissions. It needs to be clean before applying the paint though.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

I POR-15 clear coated my SSR hybrid, though the front plate and tail were brand new and only the center section had to be cleaned.



RPM was painting their units black. I'm not a fan of the "all-over" aluminum spray that hits the bolts,covers,sensors,etc..

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

I literally just searched this yesterday and came up with nothing. After seeing RPM's site with their black T56 I'd love to paint mine when/if I remove it again. I was wondering if POR-15 would work since I used it on my 9" and it came out awesome. Looks like I'll be picking up some more of that.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

As long as you prep the aluminum with their metal-prep, then the metal-ready to accept the POR-15, it should work. I use POR-15 black on most everything steel on my cars, but like the look of clean/polished aluminum so I usually POR15 clearcoat the aluminum pieces.

I just finished the C4/T56 Cbeam adapter and beam-plates and POR15 coated them black. I'll probably clean/polish the Cbeam and clearcoat that shortly..

VandykeT/A

Can you get the POR-15 clear in a spray can? I only seen it in pints, quarts, and gallons on there website. What would be the best way to clean the case and can you buy this stuff anywhere other than online? Like an auto parts?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

You can thin it and spray it, but I've never found that necessary since it has such a low surface tension it spreads out very thin and very smooth.

There are some shops that stock POR15, but ordering online is probably the easiest. I usually buy several small cans of it since you need so little to do most jobs. Keeping it from going bad is the worst part of dealing with it.

If you can find a shop with an aluminum "hot tank" you can clean the grime, or I've used engine cleaner on them. Having them bead (plastic,shells,etc.) blasted will then get most of the other crap off them.

VandykeT/A

I'm confused about how to apply it. I don't have a air compressor or anything thats the reason I was asking about a spray can.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

You brush it on.. It's flows out thin and smooth, no brush marks

VandykeT/A

Ok that works. I just got a little confused. When it comes time to drop it again I'll be ordering some of this stuff. I'm running a perfection slave cylinder so it may be sooner than later lol. Thanks

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the info Mike!

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

DO NOT GET POR15 ON YOUR HANDS. If it you do, wipe it off with a solvant right away. If it cures on your hand, nothing, I repeat, NOTHING will take it off but time.

I carelessly got it all over my hand when I painted some Jeep springs and my hands looked horrible for nearly a week. I tried, thinner, gas, acetone, xlene, paint stripper (everything short of battery acid) you name it and nothing will touch it. I actually sanded the clumps off my hands with a sander.

Also DO NOT paint directly out of the can or it will catch contaminates from your brush and start to set up. Pour it into a small cup or jar and work out of that.

That said, POR15 is some reall bad *** paint.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

POR15 (coating or clearcoat) checklist
- Nitrile Gloves (see above)
- Old clothes (long sleeves, long pants, etc. see above)
- disposable small brushes (don't bother trying to clean them)
- Small plastic cups (don't paint out of can, see above)
- popcicle sticks (should be stired, not shaken. bubbles can take days
to settle out of the can if shaken)
- old string, clothes hangers, etc and old step ladder, etc. (hang all
parts carefully and securely when painting)

When done with the can, clean the lid and lip several times and with solvent to get any residue off,
and store the can UPSIDE-DOWN so that no air can get into the can. This will keep the liquid from
curing from any leaks.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

I'm well aware of how much it sucks getting it on your hands. I painted my 9" with it