Used T56 w/ unknown history, into a turbo truck = rebuild first?
#1
Used T56 w/ unknown history, into a turbo truck = rebuild first?
Just curious what you guys think about this. I'm looking to do a T56 swap into my '01 Silverado extended cab 5.3L, and will be boosted soon. Looking to put down about 500+ rwhp. I found a used T56 locally, came out of an '01 LS1 with 80k miles. The guy never used it, but told me that the guy he bought it from said it shifted smooth with no issues. Pictures look clean.
I don't know about you guys, but I'm always skeptical to buy used anything that I haven't tested, especially a transmission. I'd hate to install it only to find it won't shift into 3rd, or grinds.
Considering the power I'm looking to put down, in a 5000+ lb truck no less, would a rebuild before installing be wise, or a waste of time? If I did a rebuild, I would likely do it myself and use one of those ~$600 rebuild kits with the carbon blockers, steel shift fork, etc. I'd greatly prefer not to send it out to save some money and I would LOVE to open it up myself.
Curious what you guys would recommend. Thanks!
I don't know about you guys, but I'm always skeptical to buy used anything that I haven't tested, especially a transmission. I'd hate to install it only to find it won't shift into 3rd, or grinds.
Considering the power I'm looking to put down, in a 5000+ lb truck no less, would a rebuild before installing be wise, or a waste of time? If I did a rebuild, I would likely do it myself and use one of those ~$600 rebuild kits with the carbon blockers, steel shift fork, etc. I'd greatly prefer not to send it out to save some money and I would LOVE to open it up myself.
Curious what you guys would recommend. Thanks!
#5
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree with the source here, open it up. There's really nothing expensive to taking a look. I would go ahead and buy a snap ring kit so you can put everything back together if it all looks ok. You really shouldn't use old snap rings. Other than that, the seals are made with silicone gasket maker (use Permatex Ultra Black) putting everything back together again. It's fun to tear into it anyway--you'll learn a lot about how it's set up and it may help you down the road in diagnosing a problem with yours or anyone else's. By the way, if you have any technical questions when opening it up, the source is a great resource for answers.
#6
I agree with the source here, open it up. There's really nothing expensive to taking a look. I would go ahead and buy a snap ring kit so you can put everything back together if it all looks ok. You really shouldn't use old snap rings. Other than that, the seals are made with silicone gasket maker (use Permatex Ultra Black) putting everything back together again. It's fun to tear into it anyway--you'll learn a lot about how it's set up and it may help you down the road in diagnosing a problem with yours or anyone else's. By the way, if you have any technical questions when opening it up, the source is a great resource for answers.
#7
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll let the source be the expert on this, but first thing I would look for is damage to engagement teeth on each gear as you take it off, as well as inspect the wear on the gear teeth to make sure it is normal wear. There is a wear pattern that is normal, and it's outlined in the t-56 manual here: http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English...-0610-0199.pdf Check the synchro assemblys and the blocker rings for wear as well. Also, check the fork pads. Most likely, you will be needing a set of these. Inspect the tapered roller bearings and the caged bearings to make sure the trans wasn't run dry. I can't think of anything else off hand. The manual will tell you what to look for in determining wear of gears and synchros. Anything else, just ask.
Trending Topics
#8
Unknown history? Open it up... no question. I just recently finished an M12 rebuild for my FRC. It was actually shifting okay, but the car is completely apart and the trans was out, so why not? I went ahead and poked around and I'm glad I did.
The "wear gap" was out of spec (less than .020") on the synchros (and reverse was less than .030" without the wave washer, per the manual). I had to replace a couple bearings/races. I checked the preload/end-play and it was out of spec (fixed). I shift fork pads and keys all looked good, but I went ahead and upgraded to billet keys and bronze fork pads while it was all apart. And, as mentioned, I picked up a new snap ring and roll pin kit, among other miscellaneous...ness. Thegearbox is where I picked up most of my parts. Tick was another source for parts as well. It's all back together now and ready to rock. This site, and a couple others, were great resources for info when I was in the middle of the tear-down/rebuild.
The "wear gap" was out of spec (less than .020") on the synchros (and reverse was less than .030" without the wave washer, per the manual). I had to replace a couple bearings/races. I checked the preload/end-play and it was out of spec (fixed). I shift fork pads and keys all looked good, but I went ahead and upgraded to billet keys and bronze fork pads while it was all apart. And, as mentioned, I picked up a new snap ring and roll pin kit, among other miscellaneous...ness. Thegearbox is where I picked up most of my parts. Tick was another source for parts as well. It's all back together now and ready to rock. This site, and a couple others, were great resources for info when I was in the middle of the tear-down/rebuild.