redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I'm finishing up my t56 swap and I'm leaning towards hooking up my reverse lockout to the brake pedal wire. But I'm wondering if that may put too much of a load on tat circuit and burn the wires up (Last thing i would need) has anyone done it this way on their fbody and has it been an issue?

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

This is how I have it wired in my truck, no issues so far!

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

I did not wire mine this way, but considered it. The reason I didn't was because of hearing about people doing it and blowing out their brake lights. It won't happen right away, but eventually people reported having problems. Search around and see if you found what I'm talking about. Let me know if you want to know how I did it.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Thanks guys I have heard some people have issues and some don't but a lot of people do it this way... How did u get urs done Mac I am curious

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

Just sent you a PM. You could use the brake light circuit, but check around because I remember seeing some people who did that blowing their brake lights. The fix for this is putting a resistor in the circuit, I believe. I sent you how to do it the way M6 cars are wired from the factory.

BlackLS1Bird

iTrader: (2)

I ran an independant key-on power wire to the power input side of a toggle switch, and then out to the input side of the reverse lockout solenoid. Then simply from the ground wire of the solenoid to the chassis. Just flip the switch on, put the car in reverse, and when finished just shut the switch off. Its not as easy as just hitting the brakes, but there is absolutely no way I am accidentally going to energize it. Ill post up some pics of my setup soon.

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

^That's definitely one way of doing it. I had considered a separate switch as well.

For anyone else's sake who views this thread later, I figured I would go ahead and post my PM to redbird on how I did mine. As you can tell from the others who have commented on the thread, there are a few ways of making the solenoid work. This is most like the way it would be wired in a stock M6 car:

Yeah, no problem. I actually ended up wiring mine like the factory would have--through the PCM. It sounds harder than it really was. I think, all in all, it took me maybe 30 min.

The reverse lockout circuit runs through the PCM. The solenoid itself contains a spring loaded check ball that allows or doesn't allow the shifter to go into reverse. With the car running, the circuit is powered at anything above 3mph. When the circuit is powered, the check ball in the solenoid is energized, keeping the shifter from moving over and going into reverse. When the engine speed is below 3 mph, the PCM grounds out the circuit, allowing the check ball to be depressed by the shifter and reverse to be used.

To get it to work, you need to repin the PCM to allow for the reverse lockout circuit to be used. On 99+ cars, you have to move pin #42 to pin # 44 on the red connector (98 cars, which is what mine is, use pin #s 61 and 42, respectively). This can be done very easily, but carefully. Gently pry the top off the red pcm connector, exposing the wires. Using the PCM block or the PCM connector for reference, find where pin #42 and #44 are. Remove the wire on pin 42 from its position, and use a paperclip to push a new hole through the foam in pin #44, and insert the wire through its new hole. The wire you are moving should be tan/blk, according to redbird55 (on 98s like mine, it is red).

Now, the wire you just repinned will show up in the 20 pin connector for the auto tranny you aren’t using anymore. Crawl under there, find the tan/blk wire (red for 98 cars), and tag it as REVERSE LOCKOUT SIGNAL wire. This will be your ground wire for the reverse lockout solenoid. While you are under there, you will need to find a power wire for the solenoid. This can also be found in the 20 pin connector. There are two pink wires running into the connector. One of them is a power wire, and one of them runs to the PCM. Snip both of them, as you may need to test both to find the power wire. To find the power wire, hook up one of the leads from a multimeter to one of the pink wires and run the other lead up to the PCM. The connector you just repinned should have a plain pink (NOT pink/black) wire going into it for one of the pins (pin number 25 for 98 cars. Not sure about 99+). Hook up the other test lead to the pin where the plain pink wire goes in to see if a circuit is completed. If it has, you have found which pink wire in the 20 pin connector runs to the PCM. You want the other pink wire below, because it is the power wire. Get back under the car, cap or tape off the unused pink wire down at the 20 pin connector, and tag the other pink wire TRANNY POWER. Then, taking your reverse lockout solenoid connector, solder the negative side to your REVERSE LOCKOUT SIGNAL WIRE and your positive side to the pink TRANNY POWER wire. Plug in the reverse lockout connector to the solenoid on the trans and you're done! Now, with an M6 tune, the PCM will use pin #44 to ground out the lockout solenoid when the car is under 3mph, de-energizing the check ball in the solenoid and allowing the car to be shifted into reverse. Let me know if you have any more questions.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Thanks Mac that is a great writeup however i think you may have to edit one small detail in there. On 99-up cars the wire in pin 42 is a tan/blk wire that controls the tcc from the tranny not red, it may be that way on 98's though? As you said this needs to be repinned to 44 for the reverse lockout ground wire.

Now you can go under the car and find the tan/blk wire in the harness and connect that to your ground on the reverse lockout solenoid and then find your power wire either in the harness or somewhere else. I was lazy and when I got the tan/blk wire for ground from pin 42 to 44 i just used the ignition 12v source that controls the phone charger port at the console base.

oldmano2z

pull the syncro's and plug the hole thaats what i did now it won't go in reverse unless at a dead stop

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

Ok, I gave some misinformation that I am going to correct here. My mind was a bit fuzzy as it has been a while since I did this, so I went back to the write-up I used and saw I made a mistake on which wire is the tranny power wire. I have corrected this above in my original post for everyone else. The original post with the write up (post #7) should be correct now.

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

And yes, if you get lazy like redbird555, you can also use the power wire from your cigarette lighter Either way it will work.

twoolley08

iTrader: (7)

which one is the ground and power when buying the pigtail? there is a green and black wire. this would be nice for future reference for others as well as me. I am in the middle of doing the t56 swap at the moment

Also anyone confirm which pin # the pink wire is for power at all?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Not ure on the pink wire # but these two links show pcm pinouts for all years so you should be fine there. The black wire is ground and should go the pcm port for reverse lockout since the pcm operates by supplying constant 12v and then momentarily grounding the wire to complete the circuit.

http://www.chevythunder.com/199798_ls1_pcm_pinouts.htm
http://www.mrk-motorsports.com/pdf/9...%20Pinouts.pdf

twoolley08

iTrader: (7)

awesome thank you.

Greg88

iTrader: (1)

bluezq8

iTrader: (6)

According to the wiring diagram for a 99-02 fbody, the 12V source is actually spliced from the same circuit that powers the 4 O2 sensors.

Allure Super

The problem is the gate is still open. The solenoid does not stop reverse from engaging. It stops the shifter from entering anything to the right of the 5th and 6th gate.