Anyone using the D&D viper mainshaft?
07-11-2014, 03:09 PM
#1
Anyone using the D&D viper mainshaft? http://www.ddperformance.com/bg29-bi...ps-conversion/
Are many people using this? If not, who else offers them? A local guy is building it and we're having Liberty do a faceplated gearset... now I'm debating upgrading mainshafts. Also, are you using their yoke or something better?
I've read alot and talked to alot of people, and I'm getting some conflicting information... what's the general consensus on the limitations of the stock mainshaft? I haven't had the car back on the dyno since putting a 6spd back in it, but it previously was 521rwhp NA and almost 700rwhp on the bottle (with another T56 a few years back). The car will see a good amount of track time with high rpm clutch dumps on 3055S ET Drags.
*Also, the guy at D&D said that mainshaft ups the torque rating to 500ft/lbs, but their website clearly says 700 ft/lbs... what's up with that?
I'll probably also have cryo treatment done on the internals and probably set it up for a fluid pump.
Thanks for any input!
-Jeremy
Are many people using this? If not, who else offers them? A local guy is building it and we're having Liberty do a faceplated gearset... now I'm debating upgrading mainshafts. Also, are you using their yoke or something better?
I've read alot and talked to alot of people, and I'm getting some conflicting information... what's the general consensus on the limitations of the stock mainshaft? I haven't had the car back on the dyno since putting a 6spd back in it, but it previously was 521rwhp NA and almost 700rwhp on the bottle (with another T56 a few years back). The car will see a good amount of track time with high rpm clutch dumps on 3055S ET Drags.
*Also, the guy at D&D said that mainshaft ups the torque rating to 500ft/lbs, but their website clearly says 700 ft/lbs... what's up with that?
I'll probably also have cryo treatment done on the internals and probably set it up for a fluid pump.
Thanks for any input!
-Jeremy
07-14-2014, 01:29 PM
#3
I've put the viper main shaft in a couple t56s and they were nice quality. Neither of the ones I built have come back yet so I assume they're still going strong.
I ran a stock main shaft in mine for 4 seasons with about 700rwhp on the bottle at 3850-3900lb race weight, shifting at 7200-7400rpm. Only thing I ever wore out was fork pads. I'm in the middle of going twin turbo now.....keeping the faceplated t56 and am staying with the stock main shaft. I've got a pump setup on it and I don't think I'll break the main shaft before I overpower the gear set. We'll see how she holds up.
I ran a stock main shaft in mine for 4 seasons with about 700rwhp on the bottle at 3850-3900lb race weight, shifting at 7200-7400rpm. Only thing I ever wore out was fork pads. I'm in the middle of going twin turbo now.....keeping the faceplated t56 and am staying with the stock main shaft. I've got a pump setup on it and I don't think I'll break the main shaft before I overpower the gear set. We'll see how she holds up.
07-14-2014, 03:38 PM
#5
There's so many variables I think it's really hard to say. Weight, how aggressive the clutch is, gear ratio, driving style etc etc. GM's 400-450ft lb rating (or whatever it is) is supposed to be continuous load in a 4000lb (ish?) vehicle. It will obviously take shorter blasts well over that, as myself and many others have proven. My personal opinion from my experience is in something like a typical fbody you'd find here....you're probably playing with fire over ~700ft lbs on the stock main, even with a good driver and forgiving clutch. It may live a long time, it may not.
07-14-2014, 04:57 PM
#6
Yeah, I understand what you're saying. I ran one before for a few years behind a H/C 346 that went mid 11's, and then my old iron block 402 (520rwhp NA & 685 rwhp n2o) with alot of 6000-7000rpm clutch dumps on slicks and radials. My bone stock T56 back then held up just fine.
I'm wanting to abuse the car alot more now and mainly on the nitrous so that's why I'm seriously debating it. What's another $600?! lol
I'm wanting to abuse the car alot more now and mainly on the nitrous so that's why I'm seriously debating it. What's another $600?! lol
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07-15-2014, 06:09 PM
#9
I'll have the full break down in a day or 2 when I get my trans.
I think it was $400 for the shaft, $75 machine work, and then $200 for a billet yoke. Then I had the shaft heat treated and shot peened.
Liberty isn't quick but they have been good to deal with. If you want it in a week or 2 forget it.
I think it was $400 for the shaft, $75 machine work, and then $200 for a billet yoke. Then I had the shaft heat treated and shot peened.
Liberty isn't quick but they have been good to deal with. If you want it in a week or 2 forget it.
08-08-2014, 01:51 PM
#14
I went ahead and bought the D&D kit but optioned out their standard yoke. Instead I went with the U1666 from Strange. Its a VERY nice piece and looks very strong. Its what RPM runs in their cars and also the blueSS that just set the GM 6spd record.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/tr...rome-moly.html
http://www.strangeengineering.net/tr...rome-moly.html