THOR C6

iTrader: (1)

Pardon the detailed but it may help with feedback.

After being down for 7 months for new motor, I go out to start car for first time to do leak check and then head out for first 20 minute run. I press down clutch pedal and have zero pedal pressure. I didn't change clutch or anything related. I figured master cylinder had gone as the car has 88k mikes on it. I find a Tick master cylinder, get it and install it. Go through the bleeds, clean up and start car to head out for drive. Now as I start to engage 1st gear the car moves forward even with clutch depressed. WTH. I start rethinking the project and searching the web. Same Monster clutch and slave cylinder, what gives.

After much debate, I take everything back apart again; mind you this is an C6 vette, so it is a slight pain. I find that I put the clutch in backwards. Get everything put back together, inspect everything and go to head out for drive. I get about an 1/8 mile from the house and I loose all clutch pressure. Pull car over, look under and fluid is flowing out of the bell housing. Get the car home, get it apart again and slave cylinder gave. The metal cylinder on it was out of round, the metal retainer came apart. Ordered another slave clutch from Monster with the billet bearing support. I got the car back together yesterday. While it was still on jacks, I went through the gears to ensure engagement and check leaks. I adjusted the master cylinder rod a little more for a lower activation point. I check pedal pressure and bleed a little more. Warm car up this morning, look car over and check shifter, seemed good to go. 1st is a little hard to get but I felt that this was only a rod adjustment. I go through gears with clutch depressed. I pull out of driveway, hit 2nd and get a clink sound as shifting, by the time I am at the end of my road, I loose pedal pressure. Keep it in 3rd, ride down the road until I can turn around and get back home. I look under car and don't see any fluid. I check reservoir and it is about half empty. I get out my bleeder and put in a little pressure to see if there is air, about 30 seconds later fluid is flowing out of bell housing again . I am at a lost on this one.

Anyone have any ideas????? Wife is beyond TIRED of this car. Got back to stock master? Clutch gone? Pressure plate? HELP!!!

Car is an 06 Vette, Monster Stage 3 clutch, new slave. Clutch has been in car for over a year with no issues.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Most issues are attributed to set-up error. Seeing how you installed the disc backwards, is it possible you didn't check

1. Did you check bearing cushion?
2. Check pedal travel? Ensure you don't over extend the bearing or the slave it self?
3. All connections are secured/tight?

THOR C6

iTrader: (1)

Bearing cushion???

I adjusted the clutch to a lower position than previously, same result. I did verify the coupling between the master and slave were secure.

Thanks

BALLSS

OP

I don't have a Z06 but it sounds like the slave is getting over extended and puking its guts if I understand your description. On MC's with adjustable rods you can over extend a slave.

I don't know if there are spacers (shims) used between slave and mounting point as the slave does have a "min & max" window of travel it needs to operate in. If because either a larger MC which provides more stroke or because more volume of fluid is being pushed into slave because MC rod is adjusted to long

beyond having the disc in backwards (yeah clutch would not work) you resolved that and it is the same clutch & FW as before, weird. That is why I am leaning on the rod is adjusted to long causing the slave to over extend.

If you adjusted rod to get the clutch to disengage/engage closer to floor or closer to the top, does your clutch pedal assembly have a "stop" bolt on it to stop the pedal from traveling any further beyond the point of full disengagement?

THOR C6

iTrader: (1)

No stop at bottom other than the Start switch..

Thanks for reply

BALLSS

is there any pedal travel left after you reach full disengagement?

THOR C6

iTrader: (1)

very little travel left.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I'm sure you've done this and are just bouncing off us for ideas, but you should probably give SNL performance and Tick performance a call and see if any of it makes sense to them. They've likely seen this before. I had a couple of weird issues on my Monster S3 that turned out to be self-inflicted, and they talked me through it. FWFW, I had overgreased the ARP bolts and got grease all over the friction material, causing some chatter.

Normally, I would not expect a bad slave from Monster, but it might have happened. Most of the time, a monster clutch will not need a shim, but it is always best to measure anyway. I saw that you "adjusted the pedal to a lower height", but that can mean alot of things. On my F-body, the clutch used to be way higher than the brake pedal and is now lower than the brake after installing the tick.

It's possible that either the slave got overextended or an internal line/fitting blew. That tick master moves alot more fluid than the stocker. Most of the time, people install a tick and set the clutch very low at first, gradually add rod length until it shifts easily while off. Then, start the engine and shift. Should still be difficult to shift. Gradually add rod length until it just barely shifts smoothly. If I shorten the turnbuckle 180 degrees, shifting gets notchy.

AdelAseeri

From my own personal experience a bad or wrong pilot bearing and a slave cylinder that is to far away from the pressure plate fingers will kill a new slave cylinder, if its not a GM slave cylinder that could also be an issue, from my experience a GM slave cylinder or a LUK slave cylinder are the way to go, I actually really liked the LUK slave cylinder very good quality, you say it's got a custom clutch, have you shimmed the slave cylinder properly?