Earnhardt

iTrader: (1)

Spring is here, its time to get this fixed...

Car is a 2002 WS6 (LS1/T56) with ~100k miles on it. This all started last year, I kinda just garaged it until I moved it to storage for the winter. Got it out of storage last weekend, it was a little hard to get into gear but no movement while in gear with clutch pressed in. I went to move it out of the garage today to give it a cleaning and it would not go into gear. I shut it off and it goes into gear fine with the motor off. Started it up in gear and it starts moving with the clutch still pressed in.

Sounds like hydraulics so I ordered a Mityvac to bleed the system, should be here this weekend. Might have gotten air in the system when I tried replacing the dark fluid with a syringe last year. I don't think I got the reservoir low enough to allow air into the system, but who knows.

However, last year, before I stored it, the throwout bearing (I'm assuming) was making some weird noises. Its always had a slight rattle when the clutch is pressed, but last year it would start squealing for about 3 seconds, then stop squealing and the car would try to move with the clutch in. My plan was to just get a new clutch kit (probably Monster Stage 2 or 3) and hope that fixed it. Should I get a new slave while I'm in there?

Thanks for any help, kinda mad I didn't get to wash it today. Supposed to get cold again next week...

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you're having clutch and bearing issues. If you're doing a clutch kit with a new bearing that will fix that, I'd say do a slave while you're in there, it's like $70 and you don't want to have to drop your trans again in 6 months. As far as the car moving with the clutch in, that tends to be a MC problem:

Good: Bleed the whole system
Better: Do the Drill mod on your MC and bleed the system
Best: Get a Tick or Mcleod MC and bleed your system

As far as the clutch kit goes, what are your power goals?

Earnhardt

iTrader: (1)

Any idea where I can find a GM slave for $70? Cheapest I can find is Tick Performance for $139, or GMPartsDirect for $124 (nevermind, see edit) (P/N 15046288). I'm really hoping bleeding fixes the movement with clutch pressed in, I really don't want to spend the money for a new MC on top of everything else.

My car makes 336RWHP/350RWTQ, so nothing crazy. I don't plan on adding anything major to the motor right now, just drive it on the sunny days. I've read that the Monster Stage 3 has a stiff clutch pedal, and that is something I am used to. Not sure what clutch I have in my car right now (bought it used, PO didn't know either), but it is pretty stiff as well. The guy who stored my car moved it out the day I picked it up and said I must have some huge legs to drive with such a stiff clutch. I don't mind it though. Another reason I am looking at the Monster Stage 3 over 2 is because it is $50 cheaper right now.

Edit - Nevermind, GMPartsDirect adds "service and handling" charges which brings the slave to $150...

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

I think Colorado speed has them as an add on to a monster clutch kit. I would recommend going through Tick:

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/

Level 1 with clutch, pressure plate, billet flywheel, slave cylinder, master cylinder and remote bleeder for $950. Add a lightweight flywheel and level 2 for $100. You'll love the feel of the new hydraulics.

Blu06R1

This ^^^ All goddamned day long this ^^^

If you put the Tick Hydraulics in with a Monster kit, besides it driving like a whole new car - You can add a Slave to the Monster kit for $70. (or that Tick Kit already comes with a Slave with is very comparable to the GM AP Slave)

If you want the actual GM Slave - WS6Store has it for $119

Colorado Speed is having a sale on the Monster Clutches right now. Tick has a full kit, and so does Maryland Speed. (Monster Clutch, Slave, Tick Master, Speed Bleeder)

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Yes! That kit from Tick will shock you into realizing how poorly the car has been driving and you've just learned how to work with it.

The car moving with the pedal pressed is hydraulics not fully releasing the disc. Always. Tick master, new GM slave, and a good bleed will correct that

The squeaking is almost certainly the pilot bearing. If you're going to replace the slave and pilot, do it all and get rid of that adjustable pressure plate.

It always surprises peaople how well my clutch works in my car, because they are used to theirs.

Earnhardt

iTrader: (1)

Colorado Speed doesn't have the Monster clutches on sale anymore...

Got the Mityvac today, couldn't pull any air out of the system. Now the clutch makes a squeaking noise (with the car off) when it is pressed, not sure if it is because it is cold out or what. I haven't tried moving it today. I'll probably just order the level 2 kit from Tick for $1000 and be done with it...

Blu06R1

Damn, well you could always go with Tick's package - From my research I think they have the best "normal" price for the entire Hydraulic/Clutch package.

Most likely just the pedal bushing making that noise - Stick you head under the dash and press the pedal down until you find the source. A little spray of WD40 or something equivalent should make that go away.

You'll be very happy with that setup I'm sure

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, 1k sounds like a lot, but do it once correctly and you'll be very happy.