Will the clutch hold or not?
#1
Will the clutch hold or not?
I have a SPEC stage 3+ clutch. They say they are rated at around 850 RWTQ.
I am currently building the car for a turbo and plans are to hit around 1,000 RWHP. Having limited LT1 turbo cars out there at this power level, the only one I found did a little over 1,000 RWHP and hit around 850 RWTQ. I know it all depends on the combo, but my guess is that my TQ may be similar.
This will be at peak boost and certainly not full time (let alone under traction).
So my question is, should I change the clutch? Or I save the money and stick with my SPEC stage 3+?
I am leaning towards just staying as I don't believe the car will likely see 850 RWTQ under traction very much, and with the expense of doing the turbo built correctly, I have other expenses that are really required. If I do swap clutches I would like to go with a Street Twin, but that's another $1,000 that I'd rather not spend if I don't need to.
Opinions?
I am currently building the car for a turbo and plans are to hit around 1,000 RWHP. Having limited LT1 turbo cars out there at this power level, the only one I found did a little over 1,000 RWHP and hit around 850 RWTQ. I know it all depends on the combo, but my guess is that my TQ may be similar.
This will be at peak boost and certainly not full time (let alone under traction).
So my question is, should I change the clutch? Or I save the money and stick with my SPEC stage 3+?
I am leaning towards just staying as I don't believe the car will likely see 850 RWTQ under traction very much, and with the expense of doing the turbo built correctly, I have other expenses that are really required. If I do swap clutches I would like to go with a Street Twin, but that's another $1,000 that I'd rather not spend if I don't need to.
Opinions?
#4
Launching!
IMO get rid of that spec clutch I ran that clutch with my old nitrous combo clutch had failure at 600 tq we sent it back as it wasn't very old at all, the sent us a new one, after proper break in again we started getting clutch slip again. I have heard many other experiences with spec like mine where they don't hold up or last. So when we built the new combo we bought a monster twin disc and haven't looked back awesome clutch, and pedal feel if your going to switch look at monsters clutch options
#5
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I was in the same boat a few months ago. I was debating the SPEC and Mcleod. I have heard so many horror stories about SPEC, that it scared me off. In addition, I had a SPEC back when the kevlar material was out, like in 2002-2003. It failed within 2 months with zero racing or stickies. They replaced it with a better disc, but I just sold it instead.
#6
From my experience, SPEC used to have quality issues with their clutches. This was several years ago though. I don't hear too many people who have purchased them in recent history who have issues. I ran a stage 3 beyond its torque limits for years on slicks and drag radials with full traction, and it held up fantastic.
I have had the current stage 3+ for a bit (around 8k or so miles) and it's been an amazing clutch. Both for quality, price, and driveability. There is no doubt in my mind that my SPEC stage 3+ is a good clutch. I know it is and am not worried in the least bit about it being bad.
I was more pressing the issue on if it would be wise given the $1,000 required to upgrade to the street twin to change it out, or if I should leave it in the car and save the money as it's limit should be around if not inside the TQ I am expecting.
I have had the current stage 3+ for a bit (around 8k or so miles) and it's been an amazing clutch. Both for quality, price, and driveability. There is no doubt in my mind that my SPEC stage 3+ is a good clutch. I know it is and am not worried in the least bit about it being bad.
I was more pressing the issue on if it would be wise given the $1,000 required to upgrade to the street twin to change it out, or if I should leave it in the car and save the money as it's limit should be around if not inside the TQ I am expecting.
#7
Launching!
From my experience, SPEC used to have quality issues with their clutches. This was several years ago though. I don't hear too many people who have purchased them in recent history who have issues. I ran a stage 3 beyond its torque limits for years on slicks and drag radials with full traction, and it held up fantastic.
I have had the current stage 3+ for a bit (around 8k or so miles) and it's been an amazing clutch. Both for quality, price, and driveability. There is no doubt in my mind that my SPEC stage 3+ is a good clutch. I know it is and am not worried in the least bit about it being bad.
I was more pressing the issue on if it would be wise given the $1,000 required to upgrade to the street twin to change it out, or if I should leave it in the car and save the money as it's limit should be around if not inside the TQ I am expecting.
I have had the current stage 3+ for a bit (around 8k or so miles) and it's been an amazing clutch. Both for quality, price, and driveability. There is no doubt in my mind that my SPEC stage 3+ is a good clutch. I know it is and am not worried in the least bit about it being bad.
I was more pressing the issue on if it would be wise given the $1,000 required to upgrade to the street twin to change it out, or if I should leave it in the car and save the money as it's limit should be around if not inside the TQ I am expecting.
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^^^^ This ^^^^
Don't really know if brand matters, but 700+, I would not try to use a single disc clutch
Don't really know if brand matters, but 700+, I would not try to use a single disc clutch
#12
I think you guys may have inadvertadly helped me make up my mind to keep the clutch. It drives awesome and I don't see a point in spending more (a lot more in fact for the twin disc) when my current one will be fine.
#13
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When the stage 3 that I had for years held up to the abuse of putting it through countless full traction hits at TQ levels beyond it's rated capacity, I'm gonna be very surprised at the few times I hit the max level on the star 3+ with likely partial traction at best is gonna do it in.
I think you guys may have inadvertadly helped me make up my mind to keep the clutch. It drives awesome and I don't see a point in spending more (a lot more in fact for the twin disc) when my current one will be fine.
I think you guys may have inadvertadly helped me make up my mind to keep the clutch. It drives awesome and I don't see a point in spending more (a lot more in fact for the twin disc) when my current one will be fine.
#14
Well Op, you asked for opinions.
Not knocking SPEC or the 3+...but a dual disc clutch has twice the friction surface as a single disc clutch. Multi disc clutches are the norm for high HP cars and even the new stuff making 600-700hp production cars.
you have the 3+ so go ahead and use it. My $02 is it will start slipping under race use and when it does you will know what decision you need to make.
Not knocking SPEC or the 3+...but a dual disc clutch has twice the friction surface as a single disc clutch. Multi disc clutches are the norm for high HP cars and even the new stuff making 600-700hp production cars.
you have the 3+ so go ahead and use it. My $02 is it will start slipping under race use and when it does you will know what decision you need to make.
#15
I'm not sure how you read those comments, but it seems like everyone on here above 6 or 700 RWTQ is running a twin disc, I'm inclined to agree with them. The only twin disc I ever drove had great pedal feel and was very streetable, plus it's one less thing to worry about. Once you're at the 800+hp point in your life, is $1200 for a good clutch really a money issue?
There's a reason I can afford 800+ hp, and it's not by throwing $1200 dollars into something I don't need
I only drove one street twin, and it actually was much less friendly to drive than my SPEC stage 3+. Lots of guys with the 3+ have actually said the same that it drives awesome. Given my previous experience driving the stage 3 for years beyond its TQ rating with full traction, I just don't see how meeting the TQ rating on this one with partial traction at best is going to fail as you claim.
I'm gonna find out though.
Well Op, you asked for opinions.
Not knocking SPEC or the 3+...but a dual disc clutch has twice the friction surface as a single disc clutch. Multi disc clutches are the norm for high HP cars and even the new stuff making 600-700hp production cars.
you have the 3+ so go ahead and use it. My $02 is it will start slipping under race use and when it does you will know what decision you need to make.
Not knocking SPEC or the 3+...but a dual disc clutch has twice the friction surface as a single disc clutch. Multi disc clutches are the norm for high HP cars and even the new stuff making 600-700hp production cars.
you have the 3+ so go ahead and use it. My $02 is it will start slipping under race use and when it does you will know what decision you need to make.
I am not knocking the street twin. I know it's an awesome clutch for crazy power. But at this point for how nice mine drives, I really do feel it will be adequate for my needs. If I am wrong, then I will find out, and I'll end up with the street twin anyways.
#16
Well, I will admit I had some incorrect info. The TQ rating for the SPEC stage 3+ was 850 at the FLYWHEEL. (facepalm) For some reason I was confusing this with 850 TQ at the wheels. Now, I am confident that if I run my good shaped SPEC stage 3+ with this combo that I will be grossly over powering the clutch. And in a new build, thats not something I really want to be dealing with. SOOOOO, sounds like a street twin will be in my near future.
Anyone know where I can get the best deal on one? Its getting hard to find vendors who have them for LT1 cars. So far, Tick Performance is the only one I have found that offers the clutch. It is $1276 for the clutch and steel flywheel. I spoke with them yesterday on the phone and it seems McLoud no longer sends their flywheels balanced (it was a shock to me, and Tick said it was a shock to them as well). So, I would have to add balancing to the price also bringing the total up to $1400 (before tax). Gah! ...I was not wanting to drop that much cash, but I don't see much of any other choice. This will be for sure the clutch I want/need for my setup now.
Anyone know of anyone for sale (I know they are rebuildable), or any other vendor selling them for a better price?
Anyone know where I can get the best deal on one? Its getting hard to find vendors who have them for LT1 cars. So far, Tick Performance is the only one I have found that offers the clutch. It is $1276 for the clutch and steel flywheel. I spoke with them yesterday on the phone and it seems McLoud no longer sends their flywheels balanced (it was a shock to me, and Tick said it was a shock to them as well). So, I would have to add balancing to the price also bringing the total up to $1400 (before tax). Gah! ...I was not wanting to drop that much cash, but I don't see much of any other choice. This will be for sure the clutch I want/need for my setup now.
Anyone know of anyone for sale (I know they are rebuildable), or any other vendor selling them for a better price?
#19
Anyone else?
#20
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Yeah, because that price is from a vendor. When I bought it off ebay, it was directly from Mcleod. I bought it in February.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111070920558?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111070920558?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT