Clutch Recommendations for T56
#1
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Clutch Recommendations for T56
Hi,
I have a RAM Force installed and it is a PITA to drive. You have to rev it super high in order to not stall the call. I am looking to replace it with something with more of a "factory" feel to it. I have a Wilwood cylinder. Something nice and smooth but can also handle 527rwhp.
Any recommendations?
John
I have a RAM Force installed and it is a PITA to drive. You have to rev it super high in order to not stall the call. I am looking to replace it with something with more of a "factory" feel to it. I have a Wilwood cylinder. Something nice and smooth but can also handle 527rwhp.
Any recommendations?
John
Last edited by John510; 03-17-2016 at 10:22 PM.
#4
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Monster Clutch is the way to go... the twin disk is a sick and powerful clutch but at 527rwhp a single is more than plenty. Twins are for 1000rwhp cars
https://www.google.com/#q=monster+clutch
single disk level 2 or 3 would be what you're looking for. the guys that have problems with these Monster Clutches are the ones that don't follow the break-in instructions. IF you follow the instructions you'll have ZERO problems with this proven clutch system
https://www.google.com/#q=monster+clutch
single disk level 2 or 3 would be what you're looking for. the guys that have problems with these Monster Clutches are the ones that don't follow the break-in instructions. IF you follow the instructions you'll have ZERO problems with this proven clutch system
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Well.. That lightweight flywheel isn't helping your situation any. I've driven my brothers car with a Monster Stage 3 with the standard weight flywheel back to back with a buddies car that also had a Monster Stage 3 but with a lightweight flywheel, and the car with the lightweight flywheel was much less friendly to drive.
Also, for whatever it's worth a buddy of mine just put in a lightweight flywheel with a MANTIC twindisk in his C6Z, and my god is that car a bitch to drive. He's having serious regrets about that flywheel.
Sorry to ramble on about the flywheel, but it may help you out. The same brother of mine that had the Monster Stage 3 just swapped it out for a McLeod RXT with a standard steel flywheel and that thing is butter smooth. Can't say much about it because we haven't finished the break in yet but it has no chatter, super smooth engagement, and is supposed to be good to 1000tq. Honestly it drives very similar to my LS7 clutch and will handle twice the power.
Also, for whatever it's worth a buddy of mine just put in a lightweight flywheel with a MANTIC twindisk in his C6Z, and my god is that car a bitch to drive. He's having serious regrets about that flywheel.
Sorry to ramble on about the flywheel, but it may help you out. The same brother of mine that had the Monster Stage 3 just swapped it out for a McLeod RXT with a standard steel flywheel and that thing is butter smooth. Can't say much about it because we haven't finished the break in yet but it has no chatter, super smooth engagement, and is supposed to be good to 1000tq. Honestly it drives very similar to my LS7 clutch and will handle twice the power.
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Personally I like very much driving a light clutch and flywheel. I find the motor is more responsive and alive.
Maybe it's not a good match for a monster S3, and it is a bitch to tune, but I love the end result.
Maybe it's not a good match for a monster S3, and it is a bitch to tune, but I love the end result.
#10
well yes it does matter. the lighter FW typically means higher rev to start engagement as the car can want to "bog". A heavier (stock) FW has more inertia and can better absorb initial clutch engagement at lower rpm than a lighter FW
Some people, like Darth, adjust their driving/engagement technique and feel it is better for them....YMMV
higher rev and slipping the clutch, especially with clutch disc that are non organic ceramic type can chatter under those situations on engagement and slipping those kind of clutch discs glazes them which further causes chatter and they don't hold as well once glazed.
There are always trade offs when staying with a single disc more aggressive clutch and high HP motors in terms of drivability and smooth engagement. Twin disc clutches with organic discs will have stock like feel but hold serious HP
Op's Wilwood, good MC, if a larger bore will also give a shorter engagement window so that also contributes to its engagement which can be "quicker" than stock so adjusting one's driving technique may need to happen.
I have the McLeod twin with a 13/16 bore wildwood MC and the pedal travel is shorter than stock on engagement. With the steel FW though I just let the clutch out and it goes but I know a lighter FW would require higher revs to engage without stalling
Some people, like Darth, adjust their driving/engagement technique and feel it is better for them....YMMV
higher rev and slipping the clutch, especially with clutch disc that are non organic ceramic type can chatter under those situations on engagement and slipping those kind of clutch discs glazes them which further causes chatter and they don't hold as well once glazed.
There are always trade offs when staying with a single disc more aggressive clutch and high HP motors in terms of drivability and smooth engagement. Twin disc clutches with organic discs will have stock like feel but hold serious HP
Op's Wilwood, good MC, if a larger bore will also give a shorter engagement window so that also contributes to its engagement which can be "quicker" than stock so adjusting one's driving technique may need to happen.
I have the McLeod twin with a 13/16 bore wildwood MC and the pedal travel is shorter than stock on engagement. With the steel FW though I just let the clutch out and it goes but I know a lighter FW would require higher revs to engage without stalling
#11
We would recommend sticking to a steel flywheel if you don't like dealing with the extra revving to take off from a stop. Dual-disk clutches have awesome pedal feel, but will be overkill for 520 hp. A good single-plate clutch like our Dual-Friction would be able to handle that power level no problem.