How do you break in an engine with a brand new clutch?
05-04-2016, 07:21 PM
#1
How do you break in an engine with a brand new clutch? Realized I might be tackling this (depending on the condition of my current clutch) soon when I finish my build.
So since most people recommend putting a pretty hefty load on the engine during its first few hours (aka Dyno time) and most clutch manufacturers recommend very easy driving for the first 500 miles, what do you do?
So since most people recommend putting a pretty hefty load on the engine during its first few hours (aka Dyno time) and most clutch manufacturers recommend very easy driving for the first 500 miles, what do you do?
05-04-2016, 08:19 PM
#2
Weird, I was told to break in my new engine by keeping it under 3000 rpms for 500 miles but downshift at every red light and let the motor take the load of stopping. After 500 miles same thing except not over 4500 rpms. Dyno tuned at 1000 miles, both clutch and motor were broken in at that time, and made 850 rwhp.
05-05-2016, 12:02 AM
#3
Check this out:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
According to this (and a bunch of other ones i've read) you should do a series of medium to hard throttle pulls (if you're on a dyno) to allow the rings to seat. Obv this is a no-no with a new clutch.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
According to this (and a bunch of other ones i've read) you should do a series of medium to hard throttle pulls (if you're on a dyno) to allow the rings to seat. Obv this is a no-no with a new clutch.
05-05-2016, 04:48 PM
#5
on clutch break in you just don't want to slip it or do high rpm clutch dumps for 1st 500 mi. Just drive it "normal"
on motor you need to set the rings by accelerate to 35-40 in 2nd and let off gas so rings get loaded on decal. Do this a few times, go to 45-50 in third, same decal a few times. Keep motor under 4500 during this process. I change the oil and cut open filter to inspect for any shavings. Then at 500 mi do another oil/filter change then just normal oil/filter after that
you can break in new clutch & motor without affecting either negatively. Just don't bitch slap either until 500 mi.
On the initial motor start up I keep RPM up to about 2k for at least 10 min. more to get the oil flowing good and engine up to temp while checking for leaks and using a temp gun religiously on the exhaust headers to confirm all cyl are basically same temp. If one is cold or hotter significantly than others, shut down and find the "why".
on motor you need to set the rings by accelerate to 35-40 in 2nd and let off gas so rings get loaded on decal. Do this a few times, go to 45-50 in third, same decal a few times. Keep motor under 4500 during this process. I change the oil and cut open filter to inspect for any shavings. Then at 500 mi do another oil/filter change then just normal oil/filter after that
you can break in new clutch & motor without affecting either negatively. Just don't bitch slap either until 500 mi.
On the initial motor start up I keep RPM up to about 2k for at least 10 min. more to get the oil flowing good and engine up to temp while checking for leaks and using a temp gun religiously on the exhaust headers to confirm all cyl are basically same temp. If one is cold or hotter significantly than others, shut down and find the "why".
05-05-2016, 09:36 PM
#6
If your clutch now is working fine I would just go with it for a few hundred miles then order you a new one. LME told me to break mine in on the dyno lol. But I put probably 50 miles on it street tuning it then hit the dyno. But those first 50 miles weren't easy.
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05-06-2016, 04:29 AM
#8
9 Second Club
ignore both and just drive it how you like.
All that clutch break in stuff is bullshit and largely to try and cover the sellers etc from retarded drivers who are ******* clueless and might go out and try and slip the ***** out of it.
All that clutch break in stuff is bullshit and largely to try and cover the sellers etc from retarded drivers who are ******* clueless and might go out and try and slip the ***** out of it.
05-06-2016, 08:17 AM
#10
According to this (and a bunch of other ones i've read)
All the engine builders I spoke with during my rebuild who I was considering going with told me the same thing as far as the engine:
good break in oil for about 20 minutes varying RPM and not going over 3000
flush
good break in oil for about 500 miles, not going WOT or over 5000rpm and not staying at a steady state eg. cruising. Always vary RPM and loads, so acceleration through all gears then coasting back down.
flush
05-06-2016, 08:19 AM
#11
You should probably listen to your engine builder, you know the guy that actually put together your engine, rather than some know-it-alls on the intrawebs.
All the engine builders I spoke with during my rebuild who I was considering going with told me the same thing as far as the engine:
good break in oil for about 20 minutes varying RPM and not going over 3000
flush
good break in oil for about 500 miles, not going WOT or over 5000rpm and not staying at a steady state eg. cruising. Always vary RPM and loads, so acceleration through all gears then coasting back down.
All the engine builders I spoke with during my rebuild who I was considering going with told me the same thing as far as the engine:
good break in oil for about 20 minutes varying RPM and not going over 3000
flush
good break in oil for about 500 miles, not going WOT or over 5000rpm and not staying at a steady state eg. cruising. Always vary RPM and loads, so acceleration through all gears then coasting back down.
05-06-2016, 10:55 AM
#12
lol, I'm actually assembling the engine myself, so..
I was thinking of using my current clutch. I'm pretty sure it's stock (and I have no idea how old it is) so I wasn't sure if it would be able to stand up to the sudden increase in power.
I was thinking of using my current clutch. I'm pretty sure it's stock (and I have no idea how old it is) so I wasn't sure if it would be able to stand up to the sudden increase in power.
05-06-2016, 01:30 PM
#14
9 Second Club
You should probably listen to your engine builder, you know the guy that actually put together your engine, rather than some know-it-alls on the intrawebs.
All the engine builders I spoke with during my rebuild who I was considering going with told me the same thing as far as the engine:
good break in oil for about 20 minutes varying RPM and not going over 3000
flush
good break in oil for about 500 miles, not going WOT or over 5000rpm and not staying at a steady state eg. cruising. Always vary RPM and loads, so acceleration through all gears then coasting back down.
flush
All the engine builders I spoke with during my rebuild who I was considering going with told me the same thing as far as the engine:
good break in oil for about 20 minutes varying RPM and not going over 3000
flush
good break in oil for about 500 miles, not going WOT or over 5000rpm and not staying at a steady state eg. cruising. Always vary RPM and loads, so acceleration through all gears then coasting back down.
flush
If the engine is built right, bore prep etc good...then running in will happen naturally under almost any driving conditions, but the worst thing you'd do is take it easy.
05-07-2016, 06:44 AM
#15
engines that may never even run for 500 miles their entire life nevermind for running in
The whole point of this is for an engine that you hope to last a few hundred thousand miles, not a few hundred miles...
If the engine is built right, bore prep etc good...then running in will happen naturally under almost any driving conditions, but the worst thing you'd do is take it easy.
05-07-2016, 06:54 AM
#16
9 Second Club
Key point there. If an engine is only going to be used for a few hundred miles then who cares? Of course such an engine will have a different break in procedure than a street engine.
The whole point of this is for an engine that you hope to last a few hundred thousand miles, not a few hundred miles...
So you're saying all those engine builders that are recommending easy break in procedures are actually trying to screw you over by telling you to go easy on the engine when in reality you should be driving hard so that your engine doesn't last long and you come back to them for more work?
The whole point of this is for an engine that you hope to last a few hundred thousand miles, not a few hundred miles...
So you're saying all those engine builders that are recommending easy break in procedures are actually trying to screw you over by telling you to go easy on the engine when in reality you should be driving hard so that your engine doesn't last long and you come back to them for more work?
And you think OEM's run in every engine or rely on customers to do so ?
No.
Why people give misinformation about what is required about running in is up to them really.
05-07-2016, 05:52 PM
#17
Why people give misinformation about what is required about running in is up to them really.
Frankly, I'd rather listen to the advice of an engine builder who does this for a living rather than some random cat online who may or may not even have ever touched the inside of an engine before. Last I checked, it's the engine builder that will be warrantying the engine and not the keyboard warrior.
And you think OEM's run in every engine or rely on customers to do so ?
05-07-2016, 06:34 PM
#18
9 Second Club
Do you have proof that that way to breakin an engine is in fact wrong, or are you just going by what you think?
Frankly, I'd rather listen to the advice of an engine builder who does this for a living rather than some random cat online who may or may not even have ever touched the inside of an engine before. Last I checked, it's the engine builder that will be warrantying the engine and not the keyboard warrior.
So why do many OEMs then specifically state in the user manual how to drive the car for the first hundred or thousand miles? Is it just for kicks cuz they're bored and wanted to fill some empty space on a page?
Frankly, I'd rather listen to the advice of an engine builder who does this for a living rather than some random cat online who may or may not even have ever touched the inside of an engine before. Last I checked, it's the engine builder that will be warrantying the engine and not the keyboard warrior.
So why do many OEMs then specifically state in the user manual how to drive the car for the first hundred or thousand miles? Is it just for kicks cuz they're bored and wanted to fill some empty space on a page?
Do whatever you like, I'l do what I know works having built and tuned hundreds of engines over the years.
05-07-2016, 07:18 PM
#20
9 Second Club