why do people bash ls7 clutch/fly in an ls1 t56. enlighten me!
#41
I beat him and he made me take passenger, his car has the zip tie mod and catback, maybe more as it beats many other C5 corvettes even with bolt ons.
But I was mainly trying to show how the clutch kit LS7 shifts as it is the only video I have.
But I was mainly trying to show how the clutch kit LS7 shifts as it is the only video I have.
#43
He barely pulled me a car to the end of 4th. But seriously the only reason I posted that vid here was to show the ls7 clutch at work WOT in my car. I have a vid for race comments in the srk section.
#44
#45
#46
Not going drag racing so I think it'll be fine.
Seems like most of the naysayers spend a lot of time an the track slamming gears, I'm building a road car.
#48
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
I have never taken it to the track because of the LS7 clutch , the car went 11.9's for the guy I bought it from , I was at the track that day and impressed with how well it ran for a bolt on car but he added the ls7 clutch before I ended up with the car , the stock clutch gave up the ghost on him around 215k , I bought it at 224k - it looses an eternity to every shift and I know how to flatfoot shift I just know better than to try that with this clutch. He built a nice car and I still enjoy it and got a good deal but a better clutch will be a welcome addition someday.
I am glad it is working well for you mappinsj , I don't wish troubles on anyone I hope it continues to work out for you I just have a sour taste over it so try to at least let people know it may not be all sunshine and roses.
#49
TECH Senior Member
same here regular driving is fine/stock feeling and durable but blocks out shifts except for me its on the street .unless the car is close to dead cold then it shifts good and constant fluid swaps improve it as well but still not predictable enough to shift it aggressively.
Im curious to narrow down who is having real issues and who is having issues due to not moving enough hydraulic fluid with that particular clutch.
Saying this because again Ive never had any issues at all hard/speed shifting at redline/WOT when the car was bolt-ons or now with 433rwhp on a full weight car. With that being said I haven't been to a drag strip since the clutch has been in but ive done plenty of runs elsewhere up through 4th with no issues and quite a few auto-x's in the dead heat of summer.
Before the tick MC on the stock clutch with just bolt ons I would get a mushy peddle by the time i hit 3rd and after running I would have to pump it a few times for it to return to the top, and than it would randomly lock me out of some gears at redline after being hot. After the tick MC on the stock clutch and now on the LS7 clutch I don't have any of those issues at all. The only reason I would change it out would be maybe a for a slightly lighter setup and only if I could keep stock like drive ability.
#50
TECH Senior Member
For the Rick master to overstroke the slave, the rod has to be adjusted way far out. If you have it level with the brake pedal it won't do it. If you have it at stock height it can. Also when it happens your bellhousing will vomit some fluid. Typically when it fails it's pretty catastrophic meaning almost no warning.
#51
Are/were both of you on stock master cylinder?
Im curious to narrow down who is having real issues and who is having issues due to not moving enough hydraulic fluid with that particular clutch.
Saying this because again Ive never had any issues at all hard/speed shifting at redline/WOT when the car was bolt-ons or now with 433rwhp on a full weight car. With that being said I haven't been to a drag strip since the clutch has been in but ive done plenty of runs elsewhere up through 4th with no issues and quite a few auto-x's in the dead heat of summer.
Before the tick MC on the stock clutch with just bolt ons I would get a mushy peddle by the time i hit 3rd and after running I would have to pump it a few times for it to return to the top, and than it would randomly lock me out of some gears at redline after being hot. After the tick MC on the stock clutch and now on the LS7 clutch I don't have any of those issues at all. The only reason I would change it out would be maybe a for a slightly lighter setup and only if I could keep stock like drive ability.
Im curious to narrow down who is having real issues and who is having issues due to not moving enough hydraulic fluid with that particular clutch.
Saying this because again Ive never had any issues at all hard/speed shifting at redline/WOT when the car was bolt-ons or now with 433rwhp on a full weight car. With that being said I haven't been to a drag strip since the clutch has been in but ive done plenty of runs elsewhere up through 4th with no issues and quite a few auto-x's in the dead heat of summer.
Before the tick MC on the stock clutch with just bolt ons I would get a mushy peddle by the time i hit 3rd and after running I would have to pump it a few times for it to return to the top, and than it would randomly lock me out of some gears at redline after being hot. After the tick MC on the stock clutch and now on the LS7 clutch I don't have any of those issues at all. The only reason I would change it out would be maybe a for a slightly lighter setup and only if I could keep stock like drive ability.
#53
+1 for steel here.
#56
TECH Senior Member
So why would the heat/abuse cause the clutch itself to have issues? Would it be the pressure plate fingers losing strength so the clutch wont disengage? What do you think the deal was?
#58
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
For the Rick master to overstroke the slave, the rod has to be adjusted way far out. If you have it level with the brake pedal it won't do it. If you have it at stock height it can. Also when it happens your bellhousing will vomit some fluid. Typically when it fails it's pretty catastrophic meaning almost no warning.
If it comes apart again the stock master is going back in as soon as I rig up a good way to adjust the pedal stop.
#59
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Again, depends on the clutch. For the Quartmaster Optimum RR I have it adjusted about a full inch below the brake pedal. The engagement is effectively an on/off switch on the street and doesn't slip easily unless it's at ~3k.
If it comes apart again the stock master is going back in as soon as I rig up a good way to adjust the pedal stop.
If it comes apart again the stock master is going back in as soon as I rig up a good way to adjust the pedal stop.