T56 Slave cylinder problem.
09-13-2004, 10:22 AM
#1
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T56 Slave cylinder problem. Hi, my name is Jeremy and I am in the middle of doing a 350/T56 swap in my Mazda RX7 but I'm having a problem with the slave cylinder.
With a project like this, it is usually the little things that set you back. Picture # 1 above is a picture of the factory GM hydraulic line that connects the GM clutch slave to the GM master cylinder. If you look at the picture above you can see the factory GM hydraulic line uses a pressure fitting (on both ends) to connect the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder. Since I used a Willwood universal master cylinder (that has a threaded fitting) in combination with the GM slave cylinder (pressure fitting) I need to find a way to convert the pressure fitting to a 4AN or 6AN threaded fitting.
My first thought was to have the pressure fitting cut off the GM hydraulic line and then have a threaded fitting crimped on. I soon discovered that every place I found that makes custom hydraulic lines could not do this. There is a shop in Burbank California that makes a T56 to 4AN adaptor (picture # 2 above) with this adapter, but I have so far been unable to obtain the name of said shop. this adapter connects a threaded hydraulic line to a factory GM T56 clutch slave cylinder pressure fitting.
If anyone knows of a fitting like this, or perhaps an aftermarket slave that doesn't require that fitting it would be greatly helpful to me. This is my last hurdle I have to get over before I can take my car for a ride.
Thanks,
Jeremy
With a project like this, it is usually the little things that set you back. Picture # 1 above is a picture of the factory GM hydraulic line that connects the GM clutch slave to the GM master cylinder. If you look at the picture above you can see the factory GM hydraulic line uses a pressure fitting (on both ends) to connect the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder. Since I used a Willwood universal master cylinder (that has a threaded fitting) in combination with the GM slave cylinder (pressure fitting) I need to find a way to convert the pressure fitting to a 4AN or 6AN threaded fitting.
My first thought was to have the pressure fitting cut off the GM hydraulic line and then have a threaded fitting crimped on. I soon discovered that every place I found that makes custom hydraulic lines could not do this. There is a shop in Burbank California that makes a T56 to 4AN adaptor (picture # 2 above) with this adapter, but I have so far been unable to obtain the name of said shop. this adapter connects a threaded hydraulic line to a factory GM T56 clutch slave cylinder pressure fitting.
If anyone knows of a fitting like this, or perhaps an aftermarket slave that doesn't require that fitting it would be greatly helpful to me. This is my last hurdle I have to get over before I can take my car for a ride.
Thanks,
Jeremy
09-13-2004, 09:34 PM
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wrencher
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Well I know the McLeod master accepts that fitting. There record is kinda spotty though, you could give them a call.
www.mcleodind.com
www.mcleodind.com
09-13-2004, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by wrencher
Well I know the McLeod master accepts that fitting. There record is kinda spotty though, you could give them a call.
www.mcleodind.com
www.mcleodind.com
09-18-2004, 02:44 PM
#4
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Why not just leave the T56, with braided line as it is.
Cut this braided line, and join it onto another braided line exitting the master cylinder, via a banjo connection or similar.
There are various -4 style connectors you can use to complete this.
My own uses a Girling Master. I have a Banjo fitting bolted to it, attached to a -4 braided line.
This then passes thru the bulkhead, and onto a -4 female fitting. Then onto a double ended male fitting ( male nipple ) and similarly another female -4 fitting, attaching to the T56's braided line.
Its not the prettiest to look at, but its functional. Im sure someone could actually join the hose properly, but this is easy.
These are using simple compresion style hose fittings easily assembled yourself.
See pics.
Cut this braided line, and join it onto another braided line exitting the master cylinder, via a banjo connection or similar.
There are various -4 style connectors you can use to complete this.
My own uses a Girling Master. I have a Banjo fitting bolted to it, attached to a -4 braided line.
This then passes thru the bulkhead, and onto a -4 female fitting. Then onto a double ended male fitting ( male nipple ) and similarly another female -4 fitting, attaching to the T56's braided line.
Its not the prettiest to look at, but its functional. Im sure someone could actually join the hose properly, but this is easy.
These are using simple compresion style hose fittings easily assembled yourself.
See pics.
09-23-2004, 03:18 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Why not just leave the T56, with braided line as it is.
Cut this braided line, and join it onto another braided line exitting the master cylinder, via a banjo connection or similar.
There are various -4 style connectors you can use to complete this.
My own uses a Girling Master. I have a Banjo fitting bolted to it, attached to a -4 braided line.
This then passes thru the bulkhead, and onto a -4 female fitting. Then onto a double ended male fitting ( male nipple ) and similarly another female -4 fitting, attaching to the T56's braided line.
Its not the prettiest to look at, but its functional. Im sure someone could actually join the hose properly, but this is easy.
These are using simple compresion style hose fittings easily assembled yourself.
See pics.
Cut this braided line, and join it onto another braided line exitting the master cylinder, via a banjo connection or similar.
There are various -4 style connectors you can use to complete this.
My own uses a Girling Master. I have a Banjo fitting bolted to it, attached to a -4 braided line.
This then passes thru the bulkhead, and onto a -4 female fitting. Then onto a double ended male fitting ( male nipple ) and similarly another female -4 fitting, attaching to the T56's braided line.
Its not the prettiest to look at, but its functional. Im sure someone could actually join the hose properly, but this is easy.
These are using simple compresion style hose fittings easily assembled yourself.
See pics.
09-23-2004, 03:32 PM
#6
9 Second Club
Its a Girling Master cylinder, pretty much the same as the Wilwood.
I welded/adapted my pedal box so it would bolt to it, and welded bracket to the pedal etc to suit.
I welded/adapted my pedal box so it would bolt to it, and welded bracket to the pedal etc to suit.
09-23-2004, 03:33 PM
#7
9 Second Club
Oh...aye. And dont mount it the way I did, or you will have great difficulty bleeding it.
It needs to be mounted horizontally., not vertically as it is in mine.
It needs to be mounted horizontally., not vertically as it is in mine.
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09-24-2004, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Oh...aye. And dont mount it the way I did, or you will have great difficulty bleeding it.
It needs to be mounted horizontally., not vertically as it is in mine.
It needs to be mounted horizontally., not vertically as it is in mine.
09-24-2004, 11:50 PM
#9
TECH Apprentice
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1. stock hydraulics -- The stock hydraulics work pretty well with the stock style clutches. If you are moving to something heavier, then the stock hydraulics won't last very long. I used my stock hydraulics with the spec clutches with good results
2. Wilwood - dunno
3. Mcleod -- The main problems with the Mcleod is that the early adj masters had problems eating up the piston and seals. Even the newer ones require rebuilding every so often. Most of the problems with the Mcleod were misadjusted master cylinders IMO. I am using the Mcleod adjustable MC with a RAM clutch and It has held up for a good while now.
2. Wilwood - dunno
3. Mcleod -- The main problems with the Mcleod is that the early adj masters had problems eating up the piston and seals. Even the newer ones require rebuilding every so often. Most of the problems with the Mcleod were misadjusted master cylinders IMO. I am using the Mcleod adjustable MC with a RAM clutch and It has held up for a good while now.
09-24-2004, 11:52 PM
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Just as a reference point, when I wear out my current RAM clutch I am going with the Mcleod adjustable master, stock slave, and Mcleod street twin clutch.
