joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

I'm I to understand correctly with this thing that you can purge your clutch master cylinder of all air without removing the whole system and doing a bench bleed beforehand? First of all I don't want to spend alot of time on bleeding. I can't get much help and surely can't take it to the shop after I've pulled it all apart. I was thinking of getting one of these for after I do the drill mod. I was also wondering of this can be used to bleed brakes also after installing stainless steel lines. Can someone shed some light on this tool for me.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

What exactly are you doing? Changing the master cylinder? Or you didn't bench bleed it before you put it in?

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

They do work well to bleed out lines etc. But you have to bench bleed the master if dry. It just pulls the brake fluid into a reservoir & that how it bleeds the system. Direction should come w/one if you buy it. What there like 30-40 bucks now?

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

I'm not swapping the master cylinder, only planning on doing the drill mod and putting it back together.

Amazon has them for approx. 31.00 now.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Yes, you can bleed the hydraulics via the hole at the bottom of the master cylinder. Use one of the needle tips that comes with the Mityvac (be sure the line to the mityvac has some fluid in it), and just pump that sucker to about 25 psi. You will see air bubbles come up through the line, keep the hose in a vertical position for better results. I tried it with the brakes, but the two person method seems to work better for me.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

At the bottom of the Master Cylinder? Are you referring to the hole in the reservoir? I'm wondering if it can be done with the assembly still in the car.

Also, is there a better Master Cylinder other than the McLeod Adjustable Master Cylinder for my 2000?

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

If you're just doing the drill mod you can just gravity bleed it without using the mityvac. That's what i did when i swapped to the mcleod and it worked fine. After you do the drill mod, put the line back in the master cylinder and hang it up by the reservoir so the quick disconnect is hanging down, fill it up with brake fluid, then press in on the middle of the quick disconnect fitting until the fluid comes out steady with no air bubbles.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

That's exactly what I mean. Bleed the hydraulics from the hole at the bottom of the reservoir while the assembly is in the car. I doubt you can perform the drill mod while everything is on the car though...

Just stick with the GM master cylinder with the drill mod. If you have a pre '01 f-body, then just buy the updated hydraulics, do the drill mod and call it a day.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for that! Mityvac sure make that job alot simpler.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for that! Mityvac sure make that job alot simpler.

BOONE

iTrader: (4)

You are going to want to put the vac on it after driving it, several times and occasionally after that, to check it or if it feels spongy at all. You will see more bubbles later believe me.