hydraulic bleeding...
07-19-2005, 06:17 PM
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hydraulic bleeding... will do for a THIRD time this weekend, and want to make SURE I am right.
1) Pump clutch pedal about halfway 15 times.
2) Let clutch pedal all the way up
3) open bleeder valve
4) Push clutch pedal all the way down
5) Close bleeder valve
6) Go back to step 1
Do this unto just fluid shoots out right?
1) Pump clutch pedal about halfway 15 times.
2) Let clutch pedal all the way up
3) open bleeder valve
4) Push clutch pedal all the way down
5) Close bleeder valve
6) Go back to step 1
Do this unto just fluid shoots out right?
07-20-2005, 02:26 AM
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Thats wrong according to the Helms book i have
1) have someone push clutch pedal down
2) open bleeder valve (11mm socket) to purge air
3) close bleeder valve
4) let pedal back up or pull it back up slowly
5) repeat 4-7 times i think they recommended
ps: make sure u keep the reservoir filled with fluid, you don't want to introduce air into the system
1) have someone push clutch pedal down
2) open bleeder valve (11mm socket) to purge air
3) close bleeder valve
4) let pedal back up or pull it back up slowly
5) repeat 4-7 times i think they recommended
ps: make sure u keep the reservoir filled with fluid, you don't want to introduce air into the system
07-20-2005, 06:40 AM
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That's wrong according to the GM service manual too. Do it like Red Dragon said or reverse bleed with the Phoenix. MightyVac works too but you can't reverse bleed with it(I don't think).
07-20-2005, 03:57 PM
#6
its not like brakes.... because of the slave cyl, the volume of the space changes...
what you want to do is hold the pedal down the whole time, crack it open and then close it before fluid stops coming out.
this keeps air from coming back in.. and if you keep doing this, bubbles in the fluid (air) works its way out.
now right after you do this, the pedal will go up really slow.. let it go at its own pace.. and when you have a full pedal again, THEN bleed it again.
what you want to do is hold the pedal down the whole time, crack it open and then close it before fluid stops coming out.
this keeps air from coming back in.. and if you keep doing this, bubbles in the fluid (air) works its way out.
now right after you do this, the pedal will go up really slow.. let it go at its own pace.. and when you have a full pedal again, THEN bleed it again.
07-20-2005, 04:09 PM
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oh, I was pulling pedal up by hand. Seems like it holds to the floor. Although I didn't wait a long time for it to come back up. Geez, why do they make this stuff so complicated. LOL. But I just feel like something's wrong. Doesn't shift SMOOTH as other cars. Coudl be the used clutch, could be not bled right or could be pro 5.0. Also my reverse doesn't work right 
But that's another issue.
But that's another issue. Trending Topics
07-20-2005, 04:09 PM
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i did mine the way Red Dragon said. i've seen it work on my car and about 3 of my buddy's fbodies.
don't forget to keep checking the level of the DOT3 in the resevior.
don't forget to keep checking the level of the DOT3 in the resevior.
07-20-2005, 04:17 PM
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If it's hard to shift it could be either your clutch is not releasing properly or you could have a tranny problem. Your clutch is used? Is the flywheel resurfaced? How is your clutch pedal height and engagement point? What clutch are you using?
07-20-2005, 04:23 PM
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It's not really hard to shift. Just 4th gear grinds sometimes when going 3->4 or 6->4 Not terribly but does go into gear.
Transmission is used, this is an Auto to Manual conversion I did. Also yes flywheel is resurfaced. It is a Spec III Clutch, and I used the spacer behind the slave cylinder. clutch height is just a LITTLE lower than brake pedal. Clutch engages/disengages maybe 4 to 6" off the floor, but I always push to floor when shifting.
Transmission is used, this is an Auto to Manual conversion I did. Also yes flywheel is resurfaced. It is a Spec III Clutch, and I used the spacer behind the slave cylinder. clutch height is just a LITTLE lower than brake pedal. Clutch engages/disengages maybe 4 to 6" off the floor, but I always push to floor when shifting.
07-20-2005, 05:57 PM
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Fairly smooth, but doesn't want to go into reverse all of a sudden. I can get it into reverse by letting up on clutch, putting back in and pushing REALLY REALLY hard on reverse. With car off goes into reverse EASY. I'm stumped.
07-21-2005, 10:49 AM
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im not going to say witch way to bleed the system in these cars work cause iv done many of one and it seem some like one way than others. like my car i did every way mentioned above last time and the only one that whould let me get a peadle again was with the mity vac threw the resovore.
07-27-2005, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Red_Dragon
Thats wrong according to the Helms book i have
1) have someone push clutch pedal down
2) open bleeder valve (11mm socket) to purge air
3) close bleeder valve
4) let pedal back up or pull it back up slowly
5) repeat 4-7 times i think they recommended
ps: make sure u keep the reservoir filled with fluid, you don't want to introduce air into the system
1) have someone push clutch pedal down
2) open bleeder valve (11mm socket) to purge air
3) close bleeder valve
4) let pedal back up or pull it back up slowly
5) repeat 4-7 times i think they recommended
ps: make sure u keep the reservoir filled with fluid, you don't want to introduce air into the system
this may be a dumb question, but does the cap to the reservoir need to on or off? i'm looking to push all the old fluid out and get some new fluid in there. it's still the stock clutch, so should i stick with the Dot 3 or go with Dot 4?
07-28-2005, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by A-Bomb
this may be a dumb question, but does the cap to the reservoir need to on or off? i'm looking to push all the old fluid out and get some new fluid in there. it's still the stock clutch, so should i stick with the Dot 3 or go with Dot 4?
