Mcleod clutch, what do I need?
11-29-2005, 09:42 PM
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Mcleod clutch, what do I need? I have a stock master and slave cylinder? On a 02 T/A. Do they need to be upgraded for the Mcleod twin disc clutch?
11-29-2005, 10:01 PM
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I would definately say a McLeod master is needed for the twin disc.
It is not a diaphram spring pressure plate. It's a coil spring/lever style pressure plate for the twin's. They are suppost to require the special master.
I have the set up love it. Had to rebuild the master, but now it is like a switch on/off.
It is not a diaphram spring pressure plate. It's a coil spring/lever style pressure plate for the twin's. They are suppost to require the special master.
I have the set up love it. Had to rebuild the master, but now it is like a switch on/off.
11-30-2005, 08:10 AM
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Well Mcleod/CNC masters are known to be problematic in the out of box form. Rebuilding them seems to be the cure. (search here)
Now mine is like a switch it releases in such a short amount of pedal travel, it takes a little getting used to. I drive it on the street & lauch it 5K+ w/slicks at the track, the clutch has been good to me.
Now mine is like a switch it releases in such a short amount of pedal travel, it takes a little getting used to. I drive it on the street & lauch it 5K+ w/slicks at the track, the clutch has been good to me.
11-30-2005, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wrencher
Well Mcleod/CNC masters are known to be problematic in the out of box form. Rebuilding them seems to be the cure. (search here)
Now mine is like a switch it releases in such a short amount of pedal travel, it takes a little getting used to. I drive it on the street & lauch it 5K+ w/slicks at the track, the clutch has been good to me.
Now mine is like a switch it releases in such a short amount of pedal travel, it takes a little getting used to. I drive it on the street & lauch it 5K+ w/slicks at the track, the clutch has been good to me.
11-30-2005, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wrencher
Well Mcleod/CNC masters are known to be problematic in the out of box form. Rebuilding them seems to be the cure. (search here)
Now mine is like a switch it releases in such a short amount of pedal travel, it takes a little getting used to. I drive it on the street & lauch it 5K+ w/slicks at the track, the clutch has been good to me.
Now mine is like a switch it releases in such a short amount of pedal travel, it takes a little getting used to. I drive it on the street & lauch it 5K+ w/slicks at the track, the clutch has been good to me.
Where did you get your rebuild kit? I found it somewhere before, but now that I'm actually ready to do it, I cannot find the site. I think Red mentioned it was like $28. from him but cheaper from his vendors. So I called every vendor that sells ST's and no one has a rebuild kit.
Thanks,
Jeff
11-30-2005, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by FRDnemesis
Where did you get your rebuild kit? I found it somewhere before, but now that I'm actually ready to do it, I cannot find the site. I think Red mentioned it was like $28. from him but cheaper from his vendors. So I called every vendor that sells ST's and no one has a rebuild kit.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=266
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11-30-2005, 01:17 PM
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I have been running a Mcleod single disk for ever and have a mcleod adjustable master cylinder with over 75K miles on it and it works perfectly, never had a single problem with it. I've raced it on slicks with 6K+ clutch dumps and a ton of daily driver miles without any problems. You can replace the disk itself for 125 bucks from Mcleod if it ever wears down. I have a Mcleod Single Disk with their steel flywheel, and a mcleod adjustable master and an 02 slave cylinder.
Cheers.
Cheers.
12-01-2005, 08:38 AM
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With my LT1 car I was launching at 5k rpm on a 200 shot of nitrous, and the street twin was providing enough clamping force for 1.4 60fts and never wimpered.