A4 to M6 swap peeps get in here!!!
01-14-2006, 03:08 PM
#1
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A4 to M6 swap peeps get in here!!! Ok heres the deal. I swaped my A4 out for the M6 and everything went quite smooth except for the wiring to get the Reverse and cags solenoids and cruise control to work.
This write up is for those that did not use a M6 wiring harness and PCM but opted to use the A4 PCM with the A4 harness.
So after searching every where and only finding temp switches to make these things work I tore into it and have the complete way to have everything work the way it should through the PCM the way it was intended.
I followed a write up HERE and did all the wiring except for when it came to the cags.
The wiring I did was first to find the brake switch that has the 2 connectors attached to it and the one with the 4 wires on it has a purple and pink on the first 2. Take the pink, which is hot from the fuse panel and cut it and splice a wire to the hot side and send it down under the car and splice the 'A' side of the cags and reverse solenoid to it. Then take the switch side of the pink wire and send it to a good ground which I used under the dash, it was a nut that holds the cross member for the steering column. By grounding the pink wire from the switch will make the cruise control see a ground instead of 12 volts. To complete the circuit for the cruise you have to remove the plug off C1 of the PCM. You will notice that pin 32 is blank, and next to it 33 has a purple wire in it. There is a blue cover over the pin clips that has to be removed, at the ends of this cover you just use a small tip to push the clips in and pull up on the cover and it will come off. Pull the pin backwards out and push it through the rubber membrane of 32. The pin is held in by a clip, pull the pin side ways towards this clip and then pull the clip away from the pin carefully and the pin will pull out.
While you are at the PCM, go to C2 now and do the same to get to pin 42 and move it to 44, that wire will be tan/black. There will be a red cover over the pins on C2. This one will take care of the reverse lock out solenoid. With a tooth pick put a dab of RTV on it and add this to the top where the wires were and seal it so water dont get in.
Put all the plugs together and tighten all the plugs up on the PCM.
Now go under the car again and find the plug that went into the A4 trans and find two wires in the loom. Find and cut the tan/black wire and the white wire. Splice a wire to the tan/black and extend it to the reverse solenoid 'B" side of the plug. Take the white wire and splice a wire to it and extend it to the cags "B" side of the plug.
At this point the Cruise will work due to a closed ground loop through the purple wire. The hot from the pink will be at the pcm waiting to be grounded and operate the reverse solenoid and cags when needed.
If anyone has questions, fell free to eamil me.
farmer2@cbcast.com
Maybe one of the mods could take this and make it a sticky with the A4 to M6 swap things.
Feel free to add this to your write ups to complete the A4 to M6 swaps.
Dave Bormet
This write up is for those that did not use a M6 wiring harness and PCM but opted to use the A4 PCM with the A4 harness.
So after searching every where and only finding temp switches to make these things work I tore into it and have the complete way to have everything work the way it should through the PCM the way it was intended.
I followed a write up HERE and did all the wiring except for when it came to the cags.
The wiring I did was first to find the brake switch that has the 2 connectors attached to it and the one with the 4 wires on it has a purple and pink on the first 2. Take the pink, which is hot from the fuse panel and cut it and splice a wire to the hot side and send it down under the car and splice the 'A' side of the cags and reverse solenoid to it. Then take the switch side of the pink wire and send it to a good ground which I used under the dash, it was a nut that holds the cross member for the steering column. By grounding the pink wire from the switch will make the cruise control see a ground instead of 12 volts. To complete the circuit for the cruise you have to remove the plug off C1 of the PCM. You will notice that pin 32 is blank, and next to it 33 has a purple wire in it. There is a blue cover over the pin clips that has to be removed, at the ends of this cover you just use a small tip to push the clips in and pull up on the cover and it will come off. Pull the pin backwards out and push it through the rubber membrane of 32. The pin is held in by a clip, pull the pin side ways towards this clip and then pull the clip away from the pin carefully and the pin will pull out.
While you are at the PCM, go to C2 now and do the same to get to pin 42 and move it to 44, that wire will be tan/black. There will be a red cover over the pins on C2. This one will take care of the reverse lock out solenoid. With a tooth pick put a dab of RTV on it and add this to the top where the wires were and seal it so water dont get in.
Put all the plugs together and tighten all the plugs up on the PCM.
Now go under the car again and find the plug that went into the A4 trans and find two wires in the loom. Find and cut the tan/black wire and the white wire. Splice a wire to the tan/black and extend it to the reverse solenoid 'B" side of the plug. Take the white wire and splice a wire to it and extend it to the cags "B" side of the plug.
At this point the Cruise will work due to a closed ground loop through the purple wire. The hot from the pink will be at the pcm waiting to be grounded and operate the reverse solenoid and cags when needed.
If anyone has questions, fell free to eamil me.
farmer2@cbcast.com
Maybe one of the mods could take this and make it a sticky with the A4 to M6 swap things.
Feel free to add this to your write ups to complete the A4 to M6 swaps.
Dave Bormet
Last edited by Farmer2; 01-14-2006 at 03:20 PM.
12-26-2022, 08:51 PM
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Getting engine to crank Ok heres the deal. I swaped my A4 out for the M6 and everything went quite smooth except for the wiring to get the Reverse and cags solenoids and cruise control to work.
This write up is for those that did not use a M6 wiring harness and PCM but opted to use the A4 PCM with the A4 harness.
So after searching every where and only finding temp switches to make these things work I tore into it and have the complete way to have everything work the way it should through the PCM the way it was intended.
I followed a write up HERE and did all the wiring except for when it came to the cags.
The wiring I did was first to find the brake switch that has the 2 connectors attached to it and the one with the 4 wires on it has a purple and pink on the first 2. Take the pink, which is hot from the fuse panel and cut it and splice a wire to the hot side and send it down under the car and splice the 'A' side of the cags and reverse solenoid to it. Then take the switch side of the pink wire and send it to a good ground which I used under the dash, it was a nut that holds the cross member for the steering column. By grounding the pink wire from the switch will make the cruise control see a ground instead of 12 volts. To complete the circuit for the cruise you have to remove the plug off C1 of the PCM. You will notice that pin 32 is blank, and next to it 33 has a purple wire in it. There is a blue cover over the pin clips that has to be removed, at the ends of this cover you just use a small tip to push the clips in and pull up on the cover and it will come off. Pull the pin backwards out and push it through the rubber membrane of 32. The pin is held in by a clip, pull the pin side ways towards this clip and then pull the clip away from the pin carefully and the pin will pull out.
While you are at the PCM, go to C2 now and do the same to get to pin 42 and move it to 44, that wire will be tan/black. There will be a red cover over the pins on C2. This one will take care of the reverse lock out solenoid. With a tooth pick put a dab of RTV on it and add this to the top where the wires were and seal it so water dont get in.
Put all the plugs together and tighten all the plugs up on the PCM.
Now go under the car again and find the plug that went into the A4 trans and find two wires in the loom. Find and cut the tan/black wire and the white wire. Splice a wire to the tan/black and extend it to the reverse solenoid 'B" side of the plug. Take the white wire and splice a wire to it and extend it to the cags "B" side of the plug.
At this point the Cruise will work due to a closed ground loop through the purple wire. The hot from the pink will be at the pcm waiting to be grounded and operate the reverse solenoid and cags when needed.
If anyone has questions, fell free to eamil me.
farmer2@cbcast.com
Maybe one of the mods could take this and make it a sticky with the A4 to M6 swap things.
Feel free to add this to your write ups to complete the A4 to M6 swaps.
Dave Bormet
This write up is for those that did not use a M6 wiring harness and PCM but opted to use the A4 PCM with the A4 harness.
So after searching every where and only finding temp switches to make these things work I tore into it and have the complete way to have everything work the way it should through the PCM the way it was intended.
I followed a write up HERE and did all the wiring except for when it came to the cags.
The wiring I did was first to find the brake switch that has the 2 connectors attached to it and the one with the 4 wires on it has a purple and pink on the first 2. Take the pink, which is hot from the fuse panel and cut it and splice a wire to the hot side and send it down under the car and splice the 'A' side of the cags and reverse solenoid to it. Then take the switch side of the pink wire and send it to a good ground which I used under the dash, it was a nut that holds the cross member for the steering column. By grounding the pink wire from the switch will make the cruise control see a ground instead of 12 volts. To complete the circuit for the cruise you have to remove the plug off C1 of the PCM. You will notice that pin 32 is blank, and next to it 33 has a purple wire in it. There is a blue cover over the pin clips that has to be removed, at the ends of this cover you just use a small tip to push the clips in and pull up on the cover and it will come off. Pull the pin backwards out and push it through the rubber membrane of 32. The pin is held in by a clip, pull the pin side ways towards this clip and then pull the clip away from the pin carefully and the pin will pull out.
While you are at the PCM, go to C2 now and do the same to get to pin 42 and move it to 44, that wire will be tan/black. There will be a red cover over the pins on C2. This one will take care of the reverse lock out solenoid. With a tooth pick put a dab of RTV on it and add this to the top where the wires were and seal it so water dont get in.
Put all the plugs together and tighten all the plugs up on the PCM.
Now go under the car again and find the plug that went into the A4 trans and find two wires in the loom. Find and cut the tan/black wire and the white wire. Splice a wire to the tan/black and extend it to the reverse solenoid 'B" side of the plug. Take the white wire and splice a wire to it and extend it to the cags "B" side of the plug.
At this point the Cruise will work due to a closed ground loop through the purple wire. The hot from the pink will be at the pcm waiting to be grounded and operate the reverse solenoid and cags when needed.
If anyone has questions, fell free to eamil me.
farmer2@cbcast.com
Maybe one of the mods could take this and make it a sticky with the A4 to M6 swap things.
Feel free to add this to your write ups to complete the A4 to M6 swaps.
Dave Bormet
I am swapping an LQ9 from a 2003 escalade esv into my foxbody. The LQ9 had an automatic transmission. I have most of this wired to run. The fuel pump primes normally, but I don't get any crank. I'm only using the engine harness from the donor escalade along with the fuse box and PCM.
What wiring do I need to do to trick the PCM to think the tranny is in park so it will crank and run? From your post it sounds like you are making connections on the body harness because I assume your car already had it in the car. I know it's an old post but any help would be great.
Also note i don't care about any "safety" things like clutch pedal needing to be pressed to start. It can just crank by simply turning the key.
Last edited by nmsoller; 12-26-2022 at 09:10 PM. Reason: Updating
01-04-2023, 08:52 PM
#6
I have a question. Maybe it's answered somewhere else but I can't find it. I tried emailing you but it didn't work.
I am swapping an LQ9 from a 2003 escalade esv into my foxbody. The LQ9 had an automatic transmission. I have most of this wired to run. The fuel pump primes normally, but I don't get any crank. I'm only using the engine harness from the donor escalade along with the fuse box and PCM.
What wiring do I need to do to trick the PCM to think the tranny is in park so it will crank and run? From your post it sounds like you are making connections on the body harness because I assume your car already had it in the car. I know it's an old post but any help would be great.
Also note i don't care about any "safety" things like clutch pedal needing to be pressed to start. It can just crank by simply turning the key.
I am swapping an LQ9 from a 2003 escalade esv into my foxbody. The LQ9 had an automatic transmission. I have most of this wired to run. The fuel pump primes normally, but I don't get any crank. I'm only using the engine harness from the donor escalade along with the fuse box and PCM.
What wiring do I need to do to trick the PCM to think the tranny is in park so it will crank and run? From your post it sounds like you are making connections on the body harness because I assume your car already had it in the car. I know it's an old post but any help would be great.
Also note i don't care about any "safety" things like clutch pedal needing to be pressed to start. It can just crank by simply turning the key.
On another note, anyone doing the A4->M6 Swap, throw the C.A.G.S. in the trash where it belongs.
