Got LS1?

I've spent god only knows how many hours on my clutch swap...pulling the tranny....putting it back...breaking the slave inlet line.....getting a new master (RAM Adjustable) and slave....doing the drill mod....etc, etc....

Now this damn clutch is still kickin' my ***. I've been relegated to having my wife help me, at least she knows what down and up mean for pumping the clutch, but it seems to be going nowhere.

Did about 20-25 cycles of the following and still no change in clutch pressure.
- Clutch resevoir filled and refilled as neccessary

- push clutch in

- Open bleed on slave

- close bleed

- pull clutch out

Fluid is coming out when I open the bleed, and sounded like a little air came out in the first few cycles.

Is there light at the end of the tunnel, or is one of my "new" components bad? Should I have pre-filled the master?

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

maby try the mighty vac method

Got LS1?

I don't want to remove the master if I can help it, but will do if neccessary.

How about this for thought.

I didn't bench bleed...so there's this big air bubble in my master..am I'm assuming this right?

How about a line attached to the the mighty vac that i can feed down the clutch resevoir line into the master and try and suck that bubble up.....could it possibly work?

MrEddie

I had my socket fall off the bleeder and the whole thing went dry when bleeding last year, and I was able to restore pedal feel without removing the master. I did the pump the pedal/crack bleeder for several times until the pedal would return on its own (my clutch pedal return spring broke a long time ago, so the hydraulics are doing the job). I then hooked up the mity vac and went through that process over several days (this wasn't my daily driver). I wouldn't pump that mity vac too much over 22psi as this seemed to suck in air past the seals. You'll notice huge bubbles coming up and then thinning out. Oh, don't use the catch can - just hook it up directly. It'll take a while but it will work.

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

Without bench bleeding the master you have air in there. I've never let the master go dry so i'm not for certain whether bleeding the system will get you anywhere. The only for certain fix that I know is to pull the master and bench bleed it.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

any one have a link to the steps of bench bleeding?

also when i had my friend holding down the to bearing and while i pushed down the master the to bearing made a crack sound, that normal?
any one have a link for it?

87Fake

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
go to the Mccleod install.
They describe bench bleeding as basically what you did, just with the line disconnected from the slave.
I don't see how this process differs with the master out of the car as opposed to it in the car, your just using your hand instead of the pedal to cycle the master?
I gravity bled mine a few times when I flushed the system and went to dot 4, seemed to help. Of course i have clutch issues too, so hopefully others will chime in.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

do i need to bench bleed it with the slave connected?

87Fake

I suppose it would be optimal to have the entire system intact, however what a pain it would be to remove it all connected, if its even possible. You'd have to pull the trans to get the slave out.
I'd try what you already did, just bleed it from the quick-connect fitting at the trans, then after that bleed it from the slave. Then maybe gravity bleed it. Seems like that would exhaust all avenues of bleeding.

DaddySS

Mighty vac method works well, it's easy, and it's quick. Do yourself a favor, pick one up and then you'll be able to do the follow up bleeding in a snap.

ldickson

iTrader: (9)

I used the the mitty vac with the master on the car.You dont have to remove it.It took about 10 trys but it got the air out. Try that first.

richieg

iTrader: (1)

I finished a clutch install a couple of weeks ago. Same setup as you, new ram master & slave, & did the drill mod. Put everything together dry, no bench bleeding. Using a mitivac $30 from oriely's, put the hose in the hole at the bottom of the resovoir, create a vaccum, fill the resovoir with fluid, quickly pull the hose out, the fluid will get sucked down. Repeat until the resovoir wuits going dry. Throw the mitivac on one more time, suspend the mitivac contanier up high, make alot of vaccum, wait 5 minutes as the little bubbles come up, release the vaccum, done.

Got LS1?

Looks like I'm going to get me a miytvac...thanks for the info folks.

SIC LSX

iTrader: (10)

i will be doing ls7 clutch,02 master,drill mod,slave,pilot bearing all at once. any helpful hints for me?

richieg

iTrader: (1)

Spend the money & get the right tool to pull the pilot bearing. even if you think it is too much money, get it. Other than that, the write ups around here are terrific! They cover everything you would ever want to know.

quiksilver9531

yes i recommend that too, my friend had a puller for that, took 5 seconds to get it out.

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

i did it with this method.
http://www.ls1camaro.net/sections.ph...ticle&artid=71

It actually didnt work like they said it would, but if you open up the bleeder, and then do it, it works great. Just have someone up top to let the fluid pass through, and someone at the bottom to open and close the bleeder. If your around north texas, you can even use mine.