bad6as

iTrader: (17)

well my shop got my trans out to day, and he was telling me that my pilot bearing was trashed. (i dident see it i should have asked thoe)
would that also cause the shaft to rub the salve and cause it to leak?

he also said it could have a effect on teh crankshaft....that true?

98 with 84k on it, i got it with 75k so im not sure on the history

brakeandclutch

With the Pilot Torn up the cause could be Trans Mount, Motor Mount, Broken or Twisted Bellhousing. The Main cause is a Misalignment in the driveline. The effect on the Crank is if it was caught early than don't worry as long a a new one seats correctly you will be ok. If not than you will be looking at replacing the crank.

Thanks,

BrakeandClutch

Parts & Service Since 1938

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

yeah the shifter moves a bunch when i rev it.
i could still drive it, untill a lil bit ago, when the slave sprung a leak

NoGamesLS1

iTrader: (16)

Mine was disinigrated. The needle bearings were gone. The only thing left was dust. My shifter was jumpin around. It ended up ruining my input shaft and syncos.

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

I think the same thing has happened with his from the pictures I can see. Unfortunantly I can not tell exactly since the pictures are hard to see from where the pilot bearing was.

Thanks,
Joe

quiksilver9531

Yea I had the same thing happen to my pilot bearing, completely trashed, no needle bearings left, it roughed the input shaft up a little bit, but luckily the damage was minimal and we were able to just to clean up the shaft and put it all back together.

matt89

mine was toast too, the guy at the gm dealer was told to replace it with a brass sleeve of some sort?!! They said the bearing always runs out of grease and the input shaft takes it.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Can someone post the part number for the brass sleeve/bushing. I've heard people say that you should replace the bearing with a solid bushing as it holds up better, but with the search function messed up as it is, it's tough to find anything right now.

Thanks.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

i dident feel any thing wired at all when i was still driving it.
i drove around with it poping out of 4th for a couple on months.
and i went to drive it one morning and clutch stayed at the floor and i could never get it back up, and fluid was pouring out the bell housing.

so out of 100% whats the chances that a new crank is needed.

im 19 and after 8months of 40+ hours each week (and thats still paying 400 in bills each month) i got just enough.

and im out of $$ and this is keeping me from going and getting another job.

im scared

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

you shouldn't need a crank. if anything, they will pop in a fitting

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

what do you by pop in a fitting?
i have a new piolt bearing all ready for then to install

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

some kind of "save a crank" sleeve. we have them in the diesel world so i'm SURE they have them in the smaller auto world

brakeandclutch

I always try to talk our customers into the solid bushing part # Chicago Rawhide PB656. I have seen plenty of failures on the needle bearing type part # Chicago Rawhide PB657. From what I can tell the solid bushing type can handle the flexing of the input shaft & other components better than the needle bearing type. Just my 2 Cents....

Thanks,

BrakeandClutch

*Quality Parts & Service Since 1938

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

could you pm me a price for the solid one.

and how come no one has said that the solids are better untill now..........

brakeandclutch

Most of the people on this board are only using the Needle type because that is what came from the factory or what comes in the kits they buy. We see far more of the needle type in terms of failure for that application. Even the newer Chevy Trucks we sell clutches for are now using the Needle type and they just don't hold up to the old solid type. Back in the old days you just put a little anti-seize on the end of the shaft, stuck er in & away you went & the old solid type was fine. But remember that the Solid type is not a fix all. If there is a misalignment it will still fail, it just will take longer to do so than the needle type.

Thanks,
BrakeandClutch

*Quality Parts & Service Since 1938

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

I agree go with the Bronze Bushing. When I get your tranny I can include one when I send it back. Just let me know. I always install the bronze ones as well since the GM stock one tends to brake apart. Let me know if you want one.

Thanks,
Joe

schpenxel

bronze one was fun to get off on my C5... took a dremel tool to cut both sides to make it fall apart to get it out

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

yeah Joe, if you would include a bronze one I would appreciate it

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

im thinking the stock one failed because there is 84k on it and my trans mount was prety bad.
i would rev it in N and it would mone about 2 inches