Partial T56 Rebuild?
06-05-2006, 03:40 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Partial T56 Rebuild? My original transmission still works normally but I will soon be installing a new clutch and am wondering whether I would be foolish to not also replace synchronizers and shift forks while my driveline is apart. Is there something else that is relatively easy to do? Or is simply opening the transmission case sufficiently difficult that a partial rebuild of any sort does not make sense? I want to fully disassemble and upgrade my transmission eventually but I work very slowly and now is not a good time.
06-05-2006, 03:55 PM
#2
If you have all teh tools and parts and are mechanically inclined, then you can do it.
THere are instructions and pictures (I can dig up the links if you need them) available online for free.
THe only thing that makes the job take long, is if you need to replace the bearings. I bought my transmission used, so I replaced them.
Its a hell of a lot easier to do with a hydraulic press, but not necessary.
THere are instructions and pictures (I can dig up the links if you need them) available online for free.
THe only thing that makes the job take long, is if you need to replace the bearings. I bought my transmission used, so I replaced them.
Its a hell of a lot easier to do with a hydraulic press, but not necessary.
06-05-2006, 04:37 PM
#3
Did this in just under 3 hours, I most definitely need any tips and pointers you can give me it's been awhile since I did a 4 speed, but i've gone over and over the daigrams for this one and am up to the task but more info is always better. As for tools I have a c-clip remover, but have been known to improvise 
06-05-2006, 04:46 PM
#4
this is my partial rebuild kit and partial it is. its got all the bearings, 1-2 shift fork, 2 friction rings, a 3-4 synchro assembly with matching blocker rings in like new cond., a reverse synchro assembly with blocker rings in like new cond., 2 other blocker rings?? dont know where they go, 2 other brass blocker rings also dont know?.....yet.
A rear seal and 2 races, I'm in contact with RPm transmissions, they seem pretty cool, i'm buying their 3-4 steel fork, and they're gonna help me out with whatever else I may need, just wanting to be extra thorough if you guys have any good tips or advice, my thanks to you ahead of time.
I'm mulling over going with billet steel keys for all 1-6.
And just cannot afford to go with brass fork pads if I do ALL the keys, but will revisit this much easier to get to part later.
A rear seal and 2 races, I'm in contact with RPm transmissions, they seem pretty cool, i'm buying their 3-4 steel fork, and they're gonna help me out with whatever else I may need, just wanting to be extra thorough if you guys have any good tips or advice, my thanks to you ahead of time.
I'm mulling over going with billet steel keys for all 1-6.
And just cannot afford to go with brass fork pads if I do ALL the keys, but will revisit this much easier to get to part later.
06-05-2006, 05:53 PM
#5
Originally Posted by License2Ill
Did this in just under 3 hours, I most definitely need any tips and pointers you can give me it's been awhile since I did a 4 speed, but i've gone over and over the daigrams for this one and am up to the task but more info is always better. As for tools I have a c-clip remover, but have been known to improvise
06-05-2006, 05:55 PM
#6
Originally Posted by License2Ill
its got all the bearings, 1-2 shift fork, 2 friction rings, a 3-4 synchro assembly with matching blocker rings in like new cond., a reverse synchro assembly with blocker rings in like new cond., 2 other blocker rings?? dont know where they go, 2 other brass blocker rings also dont know?.....yet.
A rear seal and 2 races, I'm in contact with RPm transmissions, they seem pretty cool, i'm buying their 3-4 steel fork, and they're gonna help me out with whatever else I may need, just wanting to be extra thorough if you guys have any good tips or advice, my thanks to you ahead of time.
I'm mulling over going with billet steel keys for all 1-6.
And just cannot afford to go with brass fork pads if I do ALL the keys, but will revisit this much easier to get to part later.
A rear seal and 2 races, I'm in contact with RPm transmissions, they seem pretty cool, i'm buying their 3-4 steel fork, and they're gonna help me out with whatever else I may need, just wanting to be extra thorough if you guys have any good tips or advice, my thanks to you ahead of time.
I'm mulling over going with billet steel keys for all 1-6.
And just cannot afford to go with brass fork pads if I do ALL the keys, but will revisit this much easier to get to part later.
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06-05-2006, 08:19 PM
#8
Love that link!! your the man.
check out my high table. I can't brag about building it enough, it was perfect other than getting the tranny up that high to settle it up there by yourself, man if I say its heavy, it's cuz its heavy, must be like 400 lbs.
It's high enough to where you don't have to be looking down while working, can u say no to chronic neck pain?!
check out my high table. I can't brag about building it enough, it was perfect other than getting the tranny up that high to settle it up there by yourself, man if I say its heavy, it's cuz its heavy, must be like 400 lbs.
It's high enough to where you don't have to be looking down while working, can u say no to chronic neck pain?!
06-05-2006, 08:25 PM
#9
Well this is as far as macgyver can go without a good puller, had to quit cuz I dont have one, and if I try to pull stunts i'm gonna score something and that would be stupdity.
Already tho I found both fork pads on the reverse shift fork all gone and holding on to dear life with only I swear a few mm of plastic doing it's job, and I also found broken snap ring large thinly one like the ones that hold in the keys on the synchro's but I cannnot imagine how it is that it was just floating in the extension housing.
Looks like the brass shift fork pads are gonna be a must have, my partial rebuild/upgrade is panning out to get expensive REAL fast.
Already tho I found both fork pads on the reverse shift fork all gone and holding on to dear life with only I swear a few mm of plastic doing it's job, and I also found broken snap ring large thinly one like the ones that hold in the keys on the synchro's but I cannnot imagine how it is that it was just floating in the extension housing.
Looks like the brass shift fork pads are gonna be a must have, my partial rebuild/upgrade is panning out to get expensive REAL fast.
06-05-2006, 09:26 PM
#11
Originally Posted by License2Ill
Love that link!! your the man.
check out my high table. I can't brag about building it enough, it was perfect other than getting the tranny up that high to settle it up there by yourself, man if I say its heavy, it's cuz its heavy, must be like 400 lbs.
It's high enough to where you don't have to be looking down while working, can u say no to chronic neck pain?!
check out my high table. I can't brag about building it enough, it was perfect other than getting the tranny up that high to settle it up there by yourself, man if I say its heavy, it's cuz its heavy, must be like 400 lbs.
It's high enough to where you don't have to be looking down while working, can u say no to chronic neck pain?!
06-10-2006, 11:28 PM
#14
These 2 uncle fockers conspired against me.. ..to turn my fair budgetted rebuild into a clusterF.
Reverse synchro teeth were banged up, the actual gear teeth were in excellent shape with no signs of wear at all. Reverse had to be replaced and i got lucky as I happen to have a synchro assembly from a little stash of parts I been collecting for this day. Also got lucky again as I found the Reverse locally that had an excellent used one with absolutely no wear.
Now 5th on the other hand I have not found used, and not only do I need 5th but it's matching synchro. about 200-250 alone. g-dammit.
Along the way I considered going with Liberties face plating as I have had a problem with upshifting into 5th at high rpm for awhile, but bumped into someone who explained this was more of a clutch disengagement issue and it is not a common theme on T-56 so I'm back to trying to just replace it.
I am also going to go with all the carbon blocker rings, billet 3-4, maybe 5-6, and brass fork pads 1-6 and even reverse+a steel 3-4 fork. so this has gotten really expensive. As I did not intend to go with all these premium upgrades but they are hard to resist since I have her wide open like this. I'd rather do it now and be done with.
If you look closely on this pic on the fork for reverse, there is almost no pads, but the very bits of white, you can barely see it but its there, thats all that was left of the original pad. It seems the heat turns them brittle over the years and they just crumble apart. This explains all my clunking into Reverse.
Reverse synchro teeth were banged up, the actual gear teeth were in excellent shape with no signs of wear at all. Reverse had to be replaced and i got lucky as I happen to have a synchro assembly from a little stash of parts I been collecting for this day. Also got lucky again as I found the Reverse locally that had an excellent used one with absolutely no wear.
Now 5th on the other hand I have not found used, and not only do I need 5th but it's matching synchro. about 200-250 alone. g-dammit.
Along the way I considered going with Liberties face plating as I have had a problem with upshifting into 5th at high rpm for awhile, but bumped into someone who explained this was more of a clutch disengagement issue and it is not a common theme on T-56 so I'm back to trying to just replace it.
I am also going to go with all the carbon blocker rings, billet 3-4, maybe 5-6, and brass fork pads 1-6 and even reverse+a steel 3-4 fork. so this has gotten really expensive. As I did not intend to go with all these premium upgrades but they are hard to resist since I have her wide open like this. I'd rather do it now and be done with.
If you look closely on this pic on the fork for reverse, there is almost no pads, but the very bits of white, you can barely see it but its there, thats all that was left of the original pad. It seems the heat turns them brittle over the years and they just crumble apart. This explains all my clunking into Reverse.
