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t-56 Removal Questions/Help

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Old 06-23-2006, 11:43 PM
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Question t-56 Removal Questions/Help

I am going to remove my m6 tranny for the first time. The clutch is slipping or what i think the pressure plate. I am new to this and would love advice and helpful hints to taking this out and even how to look over the clutch.

I have heard some stuff about removing tranny then bell housing.
Or is it easier to remove it all at once.
Any clearance issues?
How does the tranny/clutch connection come apart...the shaft just pull out?
any pics and other posts would really help
Thanks!
Old 06-24-2006, 12:33 AM
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make sure that you have definitely metric sockets, a 15mm, 13mm, and maybe a 10mm and extensions for your rachets. First remove your shifter from the tranny, then drain the tranny fluid. If you want remove the y-pipe just to get it out of the way, it is a PITA if your exhaust studs break while removing the y-pipe so dont be surprised if it happens. The drive shaft will just pull right out once it is unbolted from the rear and remove the torque arm. support the tranny w/ a floor jack or preferrable a tranny jack. make sure all electrical connections are disconnected. remove the tranny support/crossbrace lower the tranny just a little bit to give your self some room for the two bolts on top of the tranny, oh yeah remove the tranny from the bellhousing then the bellhousing (B/H) from the motor. it is so much easire that way. now you may have to use a rubber mallet and some type of prybar to remove the bellhousing to help slide it off of its guide pins. Once you have the tranny un bolted from the B/H you have to un bolt the slave cyclinder from the inside face of the tranny, these 2 bolts are very easy to break loose and the line and slave cyclinder you can just let hang. then just remove the tranny. The B/H is easy to remove. and at this point the only things left are the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel. All of these you just unbolt and remove. I advise replacing your pinion bearing in the back of the engine block, the throwout bearing on the slave cycl, and resurfacing your flywheel. Also support your engine so that it doesnt hang there by the motor mounts alone. Also if your pinino seal on your rear is leaking this is a good time to replace it.
I hope this helps, its all i can remember off hand.
Old 06-24-2006, 05:07 AM
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Good instructions.
Old 06-24-2006, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by IownedU
Good instructions.
add +1
Old 06-26-2006, 10:10 AM
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Thanks!

I will start on that later this week.
Old 06-26-2006, 10:16 AM
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A lot of very long extensions and swivel sockets are key.
Old 06-26-2006, 11:02 AM
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X2 on the swivel sockets, they make things go much smoother and quicker.

Just be careful too, like said, make sure to use a jack. Had a couple friends get proud (get stupid) and get the tranny on the dowls, they moved the jack and started to thread one of the bolts, but the tranny wasnt seated right and it slipped, landing square on my friends chest. Luckily it was nothing more than some really painful scratches and bruises.

Moral of the story, be careful when you drop your tranny.
Old 06-26-2006, 04:35 PM
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good luck, let me know what kinda of problems you encounter.
Old 06-26-2006, 11:19 PM
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Thumbs up

Sounds like really good advice.
I have a buddy that printed off a instruciton sheet for removal of the tranny from the shop he works at. I noticed a quick disconnect tool for the line going into the slave i think? So will a universal quick disconnect set work for this? Yea i have a knuckle for my sockets and will have a few extensions.
I will have a tranny jack to help out as well.
THis should be do able in 3-4 hrs with a helper shouldnt it. Then i am assuming i will at least have to buy a new pressure plate hopefully not more. If thats the case would u get a diff press. plate or buy a diff one.. Right now i have a spec III clutch and plate. I htink i may have damaged this from going from 3rd gear at the top of it to 2nd. Yea i didnt think it would do that but it musta been my bad.

thanks again
Old 06-26-2006, 11:48 PM
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I used a universal fuel line quick disconnect tool to remove the slave connector. Much easier than fighting with 2 small screw drivers like some suggest. I have everything apart and ready to install the new stuff and was wondering is it easier/better to bolt the bell housing to the engine first and then the tranny or go ahead and install both as a unit?
Old 06-27-2006, 01:24 AM
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I just did it a few weeks ago and I got all the instructions off www.InstallUniversity.com Those are some awesome instructions with pictures.
-Ivan




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