clutch help wont disengage
10-10-2006, 01:11 AM
#1
clutch help wont disengage Ok this week i replaced my engine and while it was out i decided it was a good time to replace my stock clutch and after a long story i ended up puting another stock disc back in. I had the flywheel resurfaced, got a new stock disc and the custom brake and clutch store i went to "reset" my stock pressure plate.
So about 2 weeks ago i started my car for the first time with a new forged motor....first time i gave it a little WOT i spun a bearing (600 miles) so i pulled it and put another stock bottom end in the car with the same new stock clutch. the first time i hammer it i go to slam 2nd and i get a wall, and the clutch sticks to the floor.
i pull over and with the car on i can not put the car into a gear. but with the car off it goes right in. i turn the car on with it already in 1st gear and the car lurches forward. So this tells me the clutch is still engaged.
So i get the car home and i replace the slave. there was still fluid in the resivoir (this had me worried) i have now used 3 different ways to bleed the slave with no luck.
the way we were doing it..
1. Have friend pump clutch 3-4 times and then have the clutch pushed to the floor.
2. I open bleeder valve for about 3-5 seconds and then close it.
3. My friend brings clutch pedal up to original postion.
4. Repeat about 12 times
another way
1) have friend pump clutch 4-5 times
2) tell friend to take foot off of clutch(dont push in pedal)
3) now you open the bleeder(it will not pour out)
4) have friend push clutch to floor and hold it there(this is when the fluid will pour out, so watch out)
5) you close bleeder
6) friend pumps clutch back up 4-5 times
then this http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm
now i just got done trying the 2nd manual way and i noticed that more fluid would come shooting out than the 1st. But the clutch still stuck to the floor. the 3rd way with the mity vac in the resivoir didnt work a bit.
Also the mityvac being put on the bleeder screw didnt work as the vac wouldnt hold pressure.
Is it possible that i just didnt do the 2nd version long enough???? i might have done 10 to 12 attemps??
also when i first floored it (from a stop on DRs at the cough*track*cough) the clutch slipped bad. is it possible for a stock clutch to weld itself to the flywheel??
sorry for the long post but im stumped and this is my daily.
Tyler
So about 2 weeks ago i started my car for the first time with a new forged motor....first time i gave it a little WOT i spun a bearing (600 miles) so i pulled it and put another stock bottom end in the car with the same new stock clutch. the first time i hammer it i go to slam 2nd and i get a wall, and the clutch sticks to the floor.
i pull over and with the car on i can not put the car into a gear. but with the car off it goes right in. i turn the car on with it already in 1st gear and the car lurches forward. So this tells me the clutch is still engaged.
So i get the car home and i replace the slave. there was still fluid in the resivoir (this had me worried) i have now used 3 different ways to bleed the slave with no luck.
the way we were doing it..
1. Have friend pump clutch 3-4 times and then have the clutch pushed to the floor.
2. I open bleeder valve for about 3-5 seconds and then close it.
3. My friend brings clutch pedal up to original postion.
4. Repeat about 12 times
another way
1) have friend pump clutch 4-5 times
2) tell friend to take foot off of clutch(dont push in pedal)
3) now you open the bleeder(it will not pour out)
4) have friend push clutch to floor and hold it there(this is when the fluid will pour out, so watch out)
5) you close bleeder
6) friend pumps clutch back up 4-5 times
then this http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm
now i just got done trying the 2nd manual way and i noticed that more fluid would come shooting out than the 1st. But the clutch still stuck to the floor. the 3rd way with the mity vac in the resivoir didnt work a bit.
Also the mityvac being put on the bleeder screw didnt work as the vac wouldnt hold pressure.
Is it possible that i just didnt do the 2nd version long enough???? i might have done 10 to 12 attemps??
also when i first floored it (from a stop on DRs at the cough*track*cough) the clutch slipped bad. is it possible for a stock clutch to weld itself to the flywheel??
sorry for the long post but im stumped and this is my daily.
Tyler
10-10-2006, 01:16 AM
#2
i also disconected the Quick release and tried to push the clutch and it wouldnt move, so i know the master is not leaking. i then pushed the inside in to let fluid come out and alot did but no bubbles came up in the resivior?? im guessing that means the master is bled well.
10-10-2006, 12:54 PM
#4
The stock clutch can weld itself to the flywheel just like any other clutch. I just had this problem two weeks ago on a Spec. I was caused from oil getting on my disc from my rear main leaking. It caused the disc to heat up more than usual.
10-10-2006, 03:17 PM
#5
I had a similar problem with a pressure plate that had a few miles on it during my last clutch swap. Put a new disc in, reset the wear compensation mechanism on the plate according to the GM service procedure out of the manual and the PP refused to release when it was placed back in the car. I ended up putting a Centerforce PP and disc in to fix the problem.
As for bleeding the system... you're on the right path with the master cylinder. I usually find it's best to take it off the car and bench bleed it if the system has been run dry or had a leak. You're looking for a pedal that you can't depress with the quick disconnect off the slave. If you get to this point, don't mess with the quick disconnect, you'll only introduce air into the system. The problem with the master is that's it's possible to get air into it that is impossible or a major nightmare to get out without bench bleeding. Once you get a solid pedal you should be able to use the usual method of pedal down, bleeder open, bleed closed, pedal up to bleed out the slave.
As for bleeding the system... you're on the right path with the master cylinder. I usually find it's best to take it off the car and bench bleed it if the system has been run dry or had a leak. You're looking for a pedal that you can't depress with the quick disconnect off the slave. If you get to this point, don't mess with the quick disconnect, you'll only introduce air into the system. The problem with the master is that's it's possible to get air into it that is impossible or a major nightmare to get out without bench bleeding. Once you get a solid pedal you should be able to use the usual method of pedal down, bleeder open, bleed closed, pedal up to bleed out the slave.
