im at the end of my rope
10-19-2006, 09:02 PM
#1
im at the end of my rope iv bled my clutch system several times now and i still lose pedal pressure when trying to speed shift to 3rd.
A week ago i blew my slave out at the track and lost all fluid, resivoir went dry. So i gravity bled the master and did the mity-vac in the resivoir method and saw alot of bubbles come out. I disconnected the master from the slave and tried to push the clutch and it wouldnt move. so that tells me my master is still good. so on too the slave.
I first let gravity work open the bleeder and left for a while and fliud eventualy began to drip out. i then did the pump pedal, hold pedal down, open close valve method. did that about 20 times total.
i also tried pumping pedal opening valve then pushing pedal to floor and closing. this made alot of fluid shoot out but i never heard air.
so i just got back from beating on it and got no improvment. Should i try putting the mity-vac on the bleeder valve? is there any other bleeding method?
my clutch set up is stock PP stock flywheel and a custom brass disc. i really feel like selling the car right now lol
A week ago i blew my slave out at the track and lost all fluid, resivoir went dry. So i gravity bled the master and did the mity-vac in the resivoir method and saw alot of bubbles come out. I disconnected the master from the slave and tried to push the clutch and it wouldnt move. so that tells me my master is still good. so on too the slave.
I first let gravity work open the bleeder and left for a while and fliud eventualy began to drip out. i then did the pump pedal, hold pedal down, open close valve method. did that about 20 times total.
i also tried pumping pedal opening valve then pushing pedal to floor and closing. this made alot of fluid shoot out but i never heard air.
so i just got back from beating on it and got no improvment. Should i try putting the mity-vac on the bleeder valve? is there any other bleeding method?
my clutch set up is stock PP stock flywheel and a custom brass disc. i really feel like selling the car right now lol
10-19-2006, 09:16 PM
#2
I'm assuming you put a new slave cylinder in after it blew? If not, you need to change it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/256791-2nd-blown-slave-2-days.html
You should also figure out what caused your slave to blow. Have you removed the transmission recently?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/256791-2nd-blown-slave-2-days.html
You should also figure out what caused your slave to blow. Have you removed the transmission recently?
10-19-2006, 09:24 PM
#3
yes i replaced the slave... heres an timeline of my transmission events lol
week 1..new motor with new stock clutch still have original slave
week2. blow new stock clutch to bits replace with brass clutch and used slave(but still good)
week3. old slave fails...replace with original slave.
week4 original slave still wont work.
week 1..new motor with new stock clutch still have original slave
week2. blow new stock clutch to bits replace with brass clutch and used slave(but still good)
week3. old slave fails...replace with original slave.
week4 original slave still wont work.
10-20-2006, 07:36 AM
#5
Man Tyler, I'm not sure what the hell you got goin on.
Have you tried a Brand New slave yet?? It could possibly have hurt the original slave somehow when the clutch exploded. Just throwing you out a idea??
I don't see why it wouldn't work other than that unless somehow your master isn't actually pumping the fluid down into the slave.
Have you tried a Brand New slave yet?? It could possibly have hurt the original slave somehow when the clutch exploded. Just throwing you out a idea??
I don't see why it wouldn't work other than that unless somehow your master isn't actually pumping the fluid down into the slave.
10-20-2006, 12:13 PM
#6
Originally Posted by BIG_MIKE2005
I don't see why it wouldn't work other than that unless somehow your master isn't actually pumping the fluid down into the slave.
Has anyone ever tried to suck fluid in through the bleeder valve? such as putting the mityvac in the resivoir and a tube connecting the bleeder valve to a bottle of brake fluid?
i have a friend that wants to trade for an auto...i might try that next lol
Last edited by 1BAD02WS6; 10-20-2006 at 01:13 PM.
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10-20-2006, 06:36 PM
#10
Originally Posted by 1BAD02WS6
Has anyone ever tried to suck fluid in through the bleeder valve? such as putting the mityvac in the resivoir and a tube connecting the bleeder valve to a bottle of brake fluid?
i have a friend that wants to trade for an auto...i might try that next lol
i have a friend that wants to trade for an auto...i might try that next lol
Is it possible my PP is not up to the task???
10-20-2006, 06:50 PM
#11
I had problems with bleeding a slave on an F-350 once, here's what I did. I was able to use the cap from the old master and drilled a 1/2" hole into it. I threaded an airhose nipple into the top and filled the reservior to the top with fluid and left the rubber boot out. Turned the air compressor regulator down into the teens or low twenties, hooked up to the cap and cracked open the bleeder. Worked like a champ.
10-20-2006, 07:04 PM
#12
Originally Posted by P Mack
Yes, I did that and it worked when the traditional bleeding method wasn't working. You have to get a tube from the brake fluid bottle to the slave bleeder valve and get the bottle up as high as possible, then just pull vacuum at the reservoir and the fluid will be pulled up into the system and you see it in the mityvac tube and there should be no air left in the system. Take the hose off the bleeder, close it, then release vacuum
Originally Posted by P Mack
That's some funny **** right there.
i have a Ram power grip Pressure plate that im going to put on in the morning and i guess ill buy a new slave as well.
10-21-2006, 10:47 AM
#13
If a pressure bleeder didn't work this way might not work either. Come to think of it, I think I did release the vacuum before closing the bleeder. That way it just gravity bleeds itself a little till you get the bleeder closed.
I'm still curious why your slave failed. Was it cracked, was the input shaft rubbing the inside, or was it just a simple seal failure? The reason I ask is you said you lost all the fluid, which makes it sound like a crack like I had.
I'm still curious why your slave failed. Was it cracked, was the input shaft rubbing the inside, or was it just a simple seal failure? The reason I ask is you said you lost all the fluid, which makes it sound like a crack like I had.
10-22-2006, 01:39 AM
#14
i just looked at the slave and i dont see any cracks so maybe its a seal.
but i think i might have found my problem..i had my pressure plate resurfaced and i think i should put a shim behind the slave or the flywheel. but at this point im ready to set the car on fire. on the way home tonight (driving normaly, have not beat on the car in a long time) 3rd gear goes out...i cant put the car in 3rd with it on or off..auto here i come.
but i think i might have found my problem..i had my pressure plate resurfaced and i think i should put a shim behind the slave or the flywheel. but at this point im ready to set the car on fire. on the way home tonight (driving normaly, have not beat on the car in a long time) 3rd gear goes out...i cant put the car in 3rd with it on or off..auto here i come.
10-22-2006, 01:32 PM
#15
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You need to do the drill mod, without it the hydraulic fluid cannot return fast enough to get another good shift in. Also make sure the slave is shimmed properly. If the machine shop cut off more than .004-.005 you need another flywheel. Make sure you insulate the line near the headers. Valvoline makes a synthetic hydraulic fluid good to 500*.