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LS7 clutch, aluminum flywheel, B&M shifter

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Old 11-03-2006, 12:10 AM
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Default LS7 clutch, aluminum flywheel, B&M shifter

All installed today. I paid 371 dollars just for freaking labor!

I kept telling myself I am going to do it myself at school, but I never had time . and recently my clutch was very bad!

It got stuck in 4th a few times. I grinded when I downshifted on the freeway ( especially into 3rd) and my clutch pedal pressure was low as hell! It sometimes went to the floor, I had to pump it. So, I cut the crap and needed to get it done ASAP, and so I did.


The only problem is, I actually like the stock shifter better. this one is too stiff and when I powershift , it shocks the rear, so because of my shifter I know Im gonna break my rear real soon when I go to race.

And another thing, I have the H shift ****, and it is so close to the Ac switch and that panel when in 1st, 3rd or 5th. My finger actually gets stuck, so Now I gotta hold the shifter from the stick instead of teh handle. WTF?!

Also I dont feel my engine revving faster with the LS2 aluminum flywheel.
Old 11-03-2006, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
The only problem is, I actually like the stock shifter better. this one is too stiff and when I powershift , it shocks the rear, so because of my shifter I know Im gonna break my rear real soon when I go to race..
Sounds like your new clutch is doing its job if it is shocking the rear. That is just your clutch grabbing better. As for breaking your 10 bolt, well that happens...

Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
And another thing, I have the H shift ****, and it is so close to the Ac switch and that panel when in 1st, 3rd or 5th. My finger actually gets stuck, so Now I gotta hold the shifter from the stick instead of teh handle. WTF?!
Maybe they put the shifter on backwards
Old 11-03-2006, 11:37 PM
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I dont know man. My clutch is grabbing for sure. but I dunno if I like it that much or not. Id rather use up the friction material more during those shifts than shocking my rear.

and I took the a/c panel and the min/max air panel off so I can shift comfortably.

As for my shifter. I think when in gear it is making some noise. and at first felt like its moving ( symptoms of a broken tranny mount) but I put a poly one in months ago. So IDK.
Old 11-04-2006, 08:23 AM
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The B&M Ripper shifters can be moved front to rear a little bit (not much, but enough where you shouldn't be hitting anything). Mine didn't give me that problem after all, and I've used both my factory leather Hurst shifter ****, and a billet aluminum MBA **** with no clearance issues at all. In order to move it though, you'll be ripping out your center console and reinstalling the shifter with different washers...

I can assure you, the shifter isn't causing the shock to your rear...that's definitely the clutch. And trust me...the LS7 really isn't enough to make your 10-bolt cry. There's still a lot of give to that clutch.
Old 11-04-2006, 09:48 AM
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I just kept my stock hurst shifter & put a WS6store short stick on it. My hands never even come close to hitting anything.
Old 11-04-2006, 01:08 PM
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Well, I am glad the shifter can be moved a bit. I had the mechanic install it when they did the clutch job. so I dont know how they iinstalled it. I guess next week in class I may reinstall it differently.

and I hope when I have my tire pressure low and when I race the shock wont occur to the rear. I guess the clutch holds well! and the pedal pressure is delightfully light.
Old 11-05-2006, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
Well, I am glad the shifter can be moved a bit. I had the mechanic install it when they did the clutch job. so I dont know how they iinstalled it. I guess next week in class I may reinstall it differently.

and I hope when I have my tire pressure low and when I race the shock wont occur to the rear. I guess the clutch holds well! and the pedal pressure is delightfully light.
that sounds backwards...your racing, but you don't want to shcok the rear? you gotta pay to play.
Old 11-05-2006, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
that sounds backwards...your racing, but you don't want to shcok the rear? you gotta pay to play.
No it doesnt sound backwards
before on my LS6 clutch, I never shocked the rear during shifts.

now my clutch grabs harder, but something has to pay, and that would be my rear.
Old 11-05-2006, 09:34 AM
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Unless you are on sticky tires, glued and what not, you're shock to the rear amounts to little more than wheel spin.

Yes it's harder on the rear, but traction will give first to the engine/powertrain, followed by the clutch.

LS7 clutch + aluminum flywheel will put you a few lbs less than the stock clutch. The weight gain of the pressure plate is a lot. While the LS2 flywheel only weighs just a bit under 2lbs compared to the LS1 flywheel.
Old 11-05-2006, 07:24 PM
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I am worried that my E/Ts will drop because my powershifting wont be as effective with this new shifter and the way the clutch grabs..
Old 11-05-2006, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
No it doesnt sound backwards
before on my LS6 clutch, I never shocked the rear during shifts.

now my clutch grabs harder, but something has to pay, and that would be my rear.
you miss understood me. I'M SAYING YOU RACE, RACING BREAKS ****, HENCE YOU HAVE TO PAY TO PLAY. FAST CARS AREN'T CHEAP.
Old 11-06-2006, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
you miss understood me. I'M SAYING YOU RACE, RACING BREAKS ****, HENCE YOU HAVE TO PAY TO PLAY. FAST CARS AREN'T CHEAP.
unless they are 5.slows
Old 11-06-2006, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
I am worried that my E/Ts will drop because my powershifting wont be as effective with this new shifter and the way the clutch grabs..

then get a new shifter
Old 11-06-2006, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cahill93Z28
then get a new shifter

Ok OEM shifter was long throws but soft to go in gear. B&M is shorter, but harder to engage in gear. is there something that goes into gear as soft as OEM, but has shorter thows?
Old 11-06-2006, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
Ok OEM shifter was long throws but soft to go in gear. B&M is shorter, but harder to engage in gear. is there something that goes into gear as soft as OEM, but has shorter thows?
The reason its harder is becasue you don't have as much leverage as you dow ith the stock one because of the height.
Old 11-07-2006, 04:22 AM
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Just give it time and you'll get used to it.
Old 11-07-2006, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
The reason its harder is becasue you don't have as much leverage as you dow ith the stock one because of the height.
yeah I though of that. and also Coy is correct. I just need to give it time.
Old 11-08-2006, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
Ok OEM shifter was long throws but soft to go in gear. B&M is shorter, but harder to engage in gear. is there something that goes into gear as soft as OEM, but has shorter thows?
Stick a damn OEM Hurst shifter in there with a short stick on top. It made a huge difference in my car. I love the feel & it did decrease the amount of movement required to shift it.

The stock stick has a stupid rubber piece in it & it makes the entire assambly feel crappy. But, if you add a short stick it will reduce the height, you will notice it feels much better rowing the gears & it makes the shifts shorter by the stick not being way up in the air. With a longer shifter stick your arm has to travel farther than if its a short stick.

I personally will never spend the money on a overpriced aftermarket shifter. And I never miss a gear with mine the way it is now. But I did with the stock stick on it.
Old 11-08-2006, 08:46 AM
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I didn't know the ls2 flywheel was aluminum, I thought it was steel.
Old 11-08-2006, 09:12 AM
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The LS2 flywheel is steel.

It's the fidanza LS2 flywheel that can come in aluminum.

The increased weight will actually help in a powershift/speed shift situation because it holds more inertial energy in the flywheel.

This is a moot point in an aluminum LS2 flywheel/LS7 clutch combo because it weighs almost as much as stock.


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