POP goes the T56
12-21-2006, 01:44 PM
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POP goes the T56 So i was leaving the store today. I pressed my foot down on the clutch and felt/herd a loud metal pop or clunk. Any ideas? After this the clutch felt really soft. Its really got me worried. The pedal doesent feel very firm. Im not to sure how much clutch is left any ideas. The car isint much fun to drive when i am worried about babying it.
help?
Walt
help?
Walt
12-21-2006, 04:34 PM
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Well i parked my car. ill check when i leave tonight. Also how hard is the slave to change? and where is it located
Edit: this would explain why my pedal has started to feel soft i guess right?
Edit 2: just went out side. Its dark i cant see it on the black drive way. However i cant see any fluid on the lower part of the bellhousing. IDK?
Edit: this would explain why my pedal has started to feel soft i guess right?
Edit 2: just went out side. Its dark i cant see it on the black drive way. However i cant see any fluid on the lower part of the bellhousing. IDK?
Last edited by skifast87; 12-21-2006 at 04:40 PM.
12-21-2006, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by skifast87
Well i parked my car. ill check when i leave tonight. Also how hard is the slave to change? and where is it located
Edit: this would explain why my pedal has started to feel soft i guess right?
Edit 2: just went out side. Its dark i cant see it on the black drive way. However i cant see any fluid on the lower part of the bellhousing. IDK?
Edit: this would explain why my pedal has started to feel soft i guess right?
Edit 2: just went out side. Its dark i cant see it on the black drive way. However i cant see any fluid on the lower part of the bellhousing. IDK?
The slave is inside the transmission bellhousing. (between the motor and the trans.) Follow the braided line into the BH. It's in there. You'll have to pull the trans back far enough for it to slip off the trans input shaft.
So basically you about have to take the trans out.
FROM TOP... Unbolt shifter and set aside
Unbolt Y-pipe
Remove driveshaft
Unbolt and remove Torque arm
Unbolt CAGS, and reverse sensor, and all other electronics on the trans.
unbolt tunnel brace
SUPPOORT TRANS and unbolt trans crossmember
unbolt trans from bellhousing
Slide trans back
2 10mm bolts hold the slave in. Remove bolts and there is a quick disconnect holding the line to the trans. Use two flatblade screwdrivers to press white coller in, push line in while doing it and once coller is pushed in pull back on line. It will come out, or keep trying till it does.
Once you bolt the new slave back in, bolt everything back up in reverse order
Once you get back in car, the first time you touch the clutch pedal it will fall like a rock, pick it back up and continue bleeding until pedal feels normal.
I used an 11mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet to bleed the slave. The bleeder valve is directly above the quick disconnect. Remove black boot from clutch fluid reservoir and fill with brake fluid (holds more this way, replace black boot when done) DO NOT GET brake fluid on your paint, it will eat it off!!!
Clutch down, open bleeder.... wait a sec....... close bleeder, clutch up.... Repeat as necessary.
12-21-2006, 04:59 PM
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I've had my transmission off twice now. Once for a new slave and then again for the new clutch. I've never had to take the stock Y pipe off but it does get in the way and would be best if you take it off.
Make sure you get all the crap disconnected from the tranny before you start pushing/pulling on it or you'll tear the wires from the plugs.
When you bleed it, I've gotten the best results when someone pumps it several times then holds it to the floor while you open the bleeder.
Don't drive it until you get the new slave. If your clutch isn't actuating properly, you could mess up the transmission's guts.
Make sure you get all the crap disconnected from the tranny before you start pushing/pulling on it or you'll tear the wires from the plugs.
When you bleed it, I've gotten the best results when someone pumps it several times then holds it to the floor while you open the bleeder.
Don't drive it until you get the new slave. If your clutch isn't actuating properly, you could mess up the transmission's guts.
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12-21-2006, 05:26 PM
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i would check the clutch return, loose bolts, loose master cylinder hardware first. i would check the basic stuff first. it will only take a few mins and a light. if it was the slave i would think that you would have some clutch dis-engagment problems. good luck
12-22-2006, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by GMTECH4
i would check the clutch return, loose bolts, loose master cylinder hardware first. i would check the basic stuff first. it will only take a few mins and a light. if it was the slave i would think that you would have some clutch dis-engagment problems. good luck
12-22-2006, 11:16 PM
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Yes...Now the only thing that makes the pedal return is hydrualic pressure.
Look under the dash and or remove the under dash panel and there will be a piece of the return spring drop out if it did not already.
The spring is right at $30ish from the dealer only and it will take you about a hour and half the first time to replace it as it is a very uncomfortable upside down on your back position to replace it.
Look under the dash and or remove the under dash panel and there will be a piece of the return spring drop out if it did not already.
The spring is right at $30ish from the dealer only and it will take you about a hour and half the first time to replace it as it is a very uncomfortable upside down on your back position to replace it.
12-23-2006, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Sneakyws6
Yes...Now the only thing that makes the pedal return is hydrualic pressure.
Look under the dash and or remove the under dash panel and there will be a piece of the return spring drop out if it did not already.
The spring is right at $30ish from the dealer only and it will take you about a hour and half the first time to replace it as it is a very uncomfortable upside down on your back position to replace it.
Look under the dash and or remove the under dash panel and there will be a piece of the return spring drop out if it did not already.
The spring is right at $30ish from the dealer only and it will take you about a hour and half the first time to replace it as it is a very uncomfortable upside down on your back position to replace it.
Is there a part number on this or will hte dealer know what we mean.
12-23-2006, 09:56 AM
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They will know what it is when you go to the dealer. There is also a plastic cup on the end of the clutch pedal where the spring rides. Do not loose the cup or break it. That little part is a biotch to find. I keeps the spring from making a creaking noise when riding in the clutch pedal fork.
I can do a return spring in about 20 to 30 minutes now after doing 5 of them.
I can do a return spring in about 20 to 30 minutes now after doing 5 of them.
