pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

Ok put new clutch in, bled it a ton, it was kinda ok to start, got a little better, then went out completely. Now the pedal feels so loose and does nothing. Yes I bled it a lot.
I took tranny out. Found fluid in the bellhousing and it dripped out. I took the fittings out of the slave, cleaned the o-ring up sprayed it all out and put it back together, now is there a way I can test this without putting it all back together?
thanks.

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

You can't test the slave out of the trans. If you hook it up to the master and depress the clutch you'll only over extend the slave and ruin it.

Are you sure the fluid in the bellhousing wasn't fluid that dripped inside while you were bleeding it? When you cleaned out the slave were you careful not to contaminate the fluid? any other liquid or air in the fluid will screw up the clutch feel. Check your master for air by disconnecting the line from the slave and trying to push the clutch pedal down. If you can depress the pedal there's air in the master or a bad seal.

KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

Thats how I was told to bench bleed the slave? I've done it numerous times with no problems so far.

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

Couldn't tell you, I've never bench bled the slave, only the master. I can say from experience that there isn't a whole lot holding the slave together, and putting full hydaulic pressure into it with no resistance from the pressure plate would pop the piston off of it.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

I have everything out on the bench. pumping it does nothing. If I unhook the slave and try and pump it there is resistance there. Should i be able to compress the slave with my fingers super easy?

Jimmard

iTrader: (12)

How easily is it to do this? When I was putting the trans back in, it wasnt going in and it was being stubborn. My dad told me to get in the car and push the clutch pedal and maybe that would loosen the pressure plate so that the trans would slide in, made sense to me. Now about 5-6k miles later, I'm having all sorts of problems with low pedal engagement to the point where the clutch is no longer disengaging. Hoping its as easy as replacing the slave. Let me know.

Jimmard

iTrader: (12)

I'm curious to hear an answer to this as well.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

If you overextended the slave, the pedal probably would have gone to the floor as all the clutch fluid leaked out onto the floor. Did you have the transmission bolts partway in at the time? It was a bad idea, but I would think an overextended slave would have failed completely.

sunsetta

iTrader: (3)

When you say you took it apart, sprayed it all out, I hope you did NOT use a cleaner like BrakeKleen or anything harsh like this, that would damage the rubber parts like o-rings and seals. This is a common mistake people make without even thinking about it. I did it once cleaning up disc brake calipers, and ruined all the seals. Learned the hard way. Will never forget.

Jimmard

iTrader: (12)

There was probably 1/2" between the trans and bellhousing. Just couldnt get it to slide in so we tried that. Dunno if it could have just partially ruined the slave, as the pedal pressure never was great and now it has completely gone to trash.

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

The piston on the slave is literally held on by 2 plastic tabs. I've seen the pistons pop off just by compressing them unevenly by hand, so it wouldn't take a lot of hydraulic pressure with no resistance against the piston to pop it off. The slave is a simple device and doesn't really require any testing. If it isn't leaking fluid then it's fine.

You should be able to compress the slave by hand, but I would be really careful with it. You really don't want or need it full of fluid and totally bled because it will be a PITA to get the trans back in with an un-compressable slave. As a matter of fact, most people crack the bleeder on the slave when reinstalling the trans.

If you're able to push the piston on the master down at all with the line disconnected from the slave you've either got bad seals in the master or air in it. You want it out of the car, reservoir full and attached. Pump the piston and put the master in various positions to help the air out. When you no longer see bubbles coming up in the reservoir and you can't depress the piston you're done. Put the master back in with the reservoir still connected and full. GM will tell you that the master is self bleeding and will work air out on it's own. That might be true for a small amount of air, but it's bull if you've had a significant leak. They've actually revised the bleeding procedure to use the mity-vac method.