Problems with my Spec Stg 3
#1
Problems with my Spec Stg 3
I know my clutch is going out (concidering the fact that i've had it on the car for about 8k already), but i wanted to know if it's normal for a my car to get a vibrating feeling when the clutch slips. It only does it if i'm getting on the throttle a lil heavy. What it does is the rpms will jump up, then when they are dropping back down and the clutch is starting to grab, it'll start chattering.
Also, what other types of clutches would you guys recommend as a best bang for buck?
Also, what other types of clutches would you guys recommend as a best bang for buck?
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One I don't think your clutch should be shot at 8K miles but it could be if your hydraulics are bad. It seems a lot of problems with the clutch are due to bad hydraulics, (slave or master cylinder or both). I personally have a Spec 3 and it holds like a ****. As far as recommendations I'd personally buy another Spec but its all up to you, just make sure when you replace it especially if you have a lot of miles on the stock hydraulics that you replace the slave/master cylinder, do it right the first time.
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Originally Posted by chaos
Even if i'm just babying the hell out of it?
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Im also about to but in a spec 3 next week, and was wondering how much it will cost to get a new master/slave/ throw out bearing, and anything else i should replace while im at it.
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I'm not exactly sure, i've heard bad things and good things about those adjustable master cylinders, and then lots of people going with the OEM master and slave and doing the drill mod. I wouldn't think over 200 bucks to replace the hydraulics.
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new slave- 150
ram adjustable master- 160
A new clutch is worthless if you still have old shitty hydros. If youre gonna gte a new nice clutch then be sure to go with some new hydros too. Thats just my personal view, you can run on old **** if you really want to.
ram adjustable master- 160
A new clutch is worthless if you still have old shitty hydros. If youre gonna gte a new nice clutch then be sure to go with some new hydros too. Thats just my personal view, you can run on old **** if you really want to.
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Originally Posted by brad8266
new slave- 150
ram adjustable master- 160
A new clutch is worthless if you still have old shitty hydros. If youre gonna gte a new nice clutch then be sure to go with some new hydros too. Thats just my personal view, you can run on old **** if you really want to.
ram adjustable master- 160
A new clutch is worthless if you still have old shitty hydros. If youre gonna gte a new nice clutch then be sure to go with some new hydros too. Thats just my personal view, you can run on old **** if you really want to.
I replace the slave every time I get a new clutch just in case. It's better than buying a new clutch and getting it installed after another 8k.
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What is the drill mod?
Originally Posted by Jon5212
I'm not exactly sure, i've heard bad things and good things about those adjustable master cylinders, and then lots of people going with the OEM master and slave and doing the drill mod. I wouldn't think over 200 bucks to replace the hydraulics.
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do a search.
basically there is a restiction built in by GM on the hydrolic line after the MC. it can affect the pedal function under hard driving conditions. VERY simple fix...assuming the MC is out already.
new slave and TO bearing are $135 i think from thunder
pilot bearing $15
ram adjustable MC $160
considering how hard it is to pull the trans, why NOT replace all of them...
i love my new ram MC....made the clutch feel totally different
basically there is a restiction built in by GM on the hydrolic line after the MC. it can affect the pedal function under hard driving conditions. VERY simple fix...assuming the MC is out already.
new slave and TO bearing are $135 i think from thunder
pilot bearing $15
ram adjustable MC $160
considering how hard it is to pull the trans, why NOT replace all of them...
i love my new ram MC....made the clutch feel totally different