A T56 where it's never been before, a few Q's...
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A T56 where it's never been before, a few Q's...
Hello everyone, Eric here, and I've got a few simple questions about T56's. Here's what I'm doing, and it's never been done before: I'm putting an LT1 T56 in my 1956 Packard, behind the original engine. (a supercharged 374 putting out about 450 HP and 450+ Lb-Ft of torque) I'm building a custom bellhousing made from the rear half of the bell T56 and the front half of the Packard auto. (which is aluminum, luckily) I've been doing some reading on here about CAGS, reverse lockout solenoids, etc, and I have a few q's. I'm assuming that the reverse lockout keeps the trans out of reverse until it's powered, is this correct? If so, I apparently can do what others have done, and hook it up to the brakelite switch.
The numbers off my tag on the trans are as follows:
12550647 D2042
13-86-009 B 24830
Tag is green if it matters.
As for CAGS, do I just ignore it, remove it, or???? (I don't want it, personally)
Is the small switch, on the passenger's side of the trans the backup light switch?
AND, lastly, how hard is it to swap out the input shaft for an LS1 input shaft? I want to keep the throwout fork and the front endplate, and plan on using a pull type slave cylinder to pull the fork rearward, instead of pushing it as the LT1 originally did. I'd also like to have the longer shaft, to give me a little more room to work with. (and who doesn't want a longer shaft??)
The reason why I'm going this route is I already have the trans, and figure I'll work with what I have.
The numbers off my tag on the trans are as follows:
12550647 D2042
13-86-009 B 24830
Tag is green if it matters.
As for CAGS, do I just ignore it, remove it, or???? (I don't want it, personally)
Is the small switch, on the passenger's side of the trans the backup light switch?
AND, lastly, how hard is it to swap out the input shaft for an LS1 input shaft? I want to keep the throwout fork and the front endplate, and plan on using a pull type slave cylinder to pull the fork rearward, instead of pushing it as the LT1 originally did. I'd also like to have the longer shaft, to give me a little more room to work with. (and who doesn't want a longer shaft??)
The reason why I'm going this route is I already have the trans, and figure I'll work with what I have.
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You are correct with the reverse lockout solenoid operation.
You can just leave the CAGS disconnected, not usefull anyway.
Just locks out 2nd gear & forces a 4th gear engagment.
The switch on the passenger side is the reverse light switch.
It is not hard to remove the front plate & just get the input out. I think the bearings are the same, never reallly looked into if it could be done. But it is not hard to pop the front & get the input shaft out.
You can just leave the CAGS disconnected, not usefull anyway.
Just locks out 2nd gear & forces a 4th gear engagment.
The switch on the passenger side is the reverse light switch.
It is not hard to remove the front plate & just get the input out. I think the bearings are the same, never reallly looked into if it could be done. But it is not hard to pop the front & get the input shaft out.
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Thanks for the info. As for the front cover, are there any surprises I'm in store for? Bearings falling out, springs flying, etc? Will I need a new gasket for it? I'm used to working on 50+ year old transmissions here, this will be the newest trans I've ever been into.
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No suprises. it will just slide apart, the race/with shims might come out but thats it.
You will need to check the endplay all over again though.
Do you have the manual for the T-56?
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/products/T-56.asp
You can use a form a gacket RTV to seal it back up. I recommend a quality RTV.
You will need to check the endplay all over again though.
Do you have the manual for the T-56?
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/products/T-56.asp
You can use a form a gacket RTV to seal it back up. I recommend a quality RTV.
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The swap of an LS1 shaft into that LT1 trans and retain the front adater plate will require rework of the plate. The LS1 gear face is wider and you will have to machine the bearing pocket deeper into the housing. This will weaken the casing somewhat but the only way to get the results you desire.That LT1unit is factory rated at 400lb-ft but if you don't try to do wheel stands with the car you should get good service. Of course ,the LS1 input shaft is also longer but since you will be fabricating a bell anyway, you can accomodate the change in that component.
BTW when you fabricate that bell, count on a finish machine cut of 10 thou on both faces to true them up after welding. Die casings move everywhere when welded.
That is a fairly old unit.. April 20. 1994. You may want to upgrade the blockers & 3/4 shift fork while you have it appart.
BTW when you fabricate that bell, count on a finish machine cut of 10 thou on both faces to true them up after welding. Die casings move everywhere when welded.
That is a fairly old unit.. April 20. 1994. You may want to upgrade the blockers & 3/4 shift fork while you have it appart.
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Thanks again everyone. It looks like adding an LS1 input shaft is going to be harder than making an extended pilot bearing, so I'll leave the trans be.
Thanks for the link wrencher, and yes, I've already got the manual for it.
As for the 400 Lb-Ft rating, I was afraid of that, but I never planned on doing wheel stands with the car, as it weighs 4800 lbs, and is about 20 ft long! My plan is to make a nice highway cruiser that will keep up with modern traffic and return decent milage to boot. I don't plan on hard shifting it, just nice cruising.
Thanks for the link wrencher, and yes, I've already got the manual for it.
As for the 400 Lb-Ft rating, I was afraid of that, but I never planned on doing wheel stands with the car, as it weighs 4800 lbs, and is about 20 ft long! My plan is to make a nice highway cruiser that will keep up with modern traffic and return decent milage to boot. I don't plan on hard shifting it, just nice cruising.
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A .001" cut isn't as bad as I was afraid of. Now, all I need to do is find is an LS1 input shaft. Anyone know of a regular throwout bearing that is short and fits the LT1 input tube?
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Originally Posted by calhoon
I thought the point of this post was to use the LT1stuff ...why not the LT1 T-O bearing?
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Well, I guess I can't compete with a weasel! But, I think that this conversion will turn quite a few heads, although the wife says I already get that enough.
BTW, this isn't the first conversion of a T56 to a Packard engine, the first one was done by a Packard friend of mine who put a Viper trans in his '56 Studebaker Golden Hawk, which originally had a 352 Packard V8 and a T85 3 speed. This WILL be the first one done in a Packard car, however. Good info on the T/O bearing, I'll try and see if I can dig one up and see how close it is.
BTW, this isn't the first conversion of a T56 to a Packard engine, the first one was done by a Packard friend of mine who put a Viper trans in his '56 Studebaker Golden Hawk, which originally had a 352 Packard V8 and a T85 3 speed. This WILL be the first one done in a Packard car, however. Good info on the T/O bearing, I'll try and see if I can dig one up and see how close it is.