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Clutch swap issue! Need Help!

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Old 10-24-2007, 10:22 PM
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Default Clutch swap issue! Need Help!

I am helping a friend do a clutch swap in my garage.
We are having an issue with getting the trans seated back against the bellhousing.
This is not my first clutch swap so I know the process, but it just wont go that last inch.
Is there something I am missing?
Any suggestions would be great!

BTW spec stage 3+ new hydros w/ shim and centerforce flywheel. all torque specs have been followed.

THANKS!!!
Old 10-24-2007, 10:25 PM
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I know you are gonna think this is a dumb suggestion but did you make sure all the bell housing bolts were out of the block? Had this happen before, when someone was helping me. hahaha. I know it sounds dumb, just a slight mis-communication.
Old 10-24-2007, 10:35 PM
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we are reinstalling the trans.
so the bell housing is bloted up, we have the input shaft in the clutch disc, but it just will not go that last inch.
We have dropped the trans just to recheck the aligment and it was fine.
we have been messing with it for over an hour with no extra progress.
Old 10-24-2007, 10:49 PM
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I just got mine back in tonight. It wouldn't go the last 1/4 inch for nothing, for some reason the dowels on the trans. weren't going in. What I did was get a couple bolts started, made sure everything was lined up, and tightened 'em on down... it seated to the bellhousing no problem at all. Hope this helps.
Old 10-25-2007, 05:55 AM
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I want to try that, but it is just out of reach for the bolts to start. Its just about an inch to go.
I think its having problems going back into the pilot bearing.

Would it hurt to go get a longer bolt, to try to start into the bellhousing, and have it pull the trans/bell housing together?

I just don't want to spend another hour on my back with nothing to show for it.
Thanks for the sugestions!
Old 10-25-2007, 06:20 AM
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Pick up 4 bolts that are about 1 inch longer, I can't remember what size those bolts are they are metric, I helped my cousin with his transmission and we used the longer bolts to get the trans seated all the way on the bellhousing and just fasten up all the other bolts.
edit: and put 2 bolts on either side of the transmission to pull it in.
Old 10-25-2007, 07:04 AM
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I am going to get the longer bolts and try that.
I can't find any other reason it wont go in that last little bit.
I will most likley drop the trans back down again, check the aligment 1 more time just to be sure.
Old 10-25-2007, 09:08 AM
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you should not have to use bolts pull the trans onto the bell. look at the input shaft is there a a burr or is it rolled up at the tip of the shaft. If all looks good there check and double check the clutch alignment I have had problems with using the plastic alignment tools supplied with the clutches. If you have an old input shaft use that to align your clutch. If your not aligned properly you will push the pilot bearing into the crank possibly damaging the crank (or pushing the plug through the crank) and the input shaft or your bearings in the trans or even wipe out the thrust bearing in the motor. I would not advise using longer bolts to pull the trans into bell something is bound up in there.
Old 10-25-2007, 09:26 AM
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^^^ I've seen the longer bolts thing several times on this site... as well as my cousin's SS and he has no problems whatsoever.
Old 10-25-2007, 09:35 AM
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I would NOT do the longer bolt thing. What you are having a problem with is alinging the pilot bushing and the input shaft. Its doing the same thing I had trouble with. Just look at the trans and the bell housing when they are separated and make sure the gap around is equal, try to put it in makeing sure that the gap is equal the whole time. If that doesnt work, take the trans out and re-align the clutch with your aligntment tool. Dont thrash it too much, you do not want to warp the clutch disc.

Jon
Old 10-25-2007, 09:57 AM
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We have checked the alignment twice, and it was fine both times.
I do not have an extra input shaft to check the aligment with.
I will check the input shaft for burrs or a rolled tip once I get home.
I reallly want to get this finished up tonight!

If the input shaft looks good and the aligment is still on is it ok to use the longer bolts?
Old 10-25-2007, 10:05 AM
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Where are you located? I've got an input shaft in the garage, in the Chicago area...
Old 10-25-2007, 10:08 AM
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Indianapolis area. I wish I could come get it.
Old 10-25-2007, 10:15 AM
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See if you can find one down there in Indy. Have you tried to re-align the clutch? Not just check it but put the tool in and re do it. Might help...
Old 10-25-2007, 11:45 AM
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Ok anyone in the indianapolis area have an input shaft I can borrow?? Buy you a beer if you do
Old 10-25-2007, 12:34 PM
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This may seem like a strange recommendation but try this...crack the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Bleed of the associated back-pressure and then try it again. I am willing to bet that you are hanging up on a slave that is fully extended. Just a thought...let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Old 10-25-2007, 12:35 PM
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Ok.. may as well ask the Stupid question again (not that you or anyone else on here is) ... never know what is overlook,... we all do stupid thing or over look them.. (I have, but I won't tell you which ones!)

How about the Alignement pins ?.. are they in line with both the block and trans when you are trying to install..? are they seated all the way in and straight? (a bit of grease on them may help) or take them out to test fit ?

how aobut the starter ?(outside chance, but may as well look)

Clutch disk is not on backwards (just asking). ?

Did you change the T/O bearing / slave ? the bearing area compresses by hand and is not lock in the extended position...

hope you find the problem soon. I know how it is when you can't.
Old 10-25-2007, 12:42 PM
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I have used the longer bolts method three times and the pilot is fine. Bolts I used were M10x55 with a pitch of 1.50.
Old 10-25-2007, 12:57 PM
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Using longer bolts to pull the trans on is not a good idea...here is why. Countless numbers of you have installed these transmission without the need for bolts and wrenching them into place. That being said...if the transmission won't go on...there is a reason...and that reason may just be that something is either out of alignment, not installed properly, or that the bearing is pressurized, etc... By forcing the assembly on with bolts you can actually bend the disc which will cause its own set of issues. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Old 10-25-2007, 01:03 PM
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Like Spec01 said, crack the bleeder.


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