Why is it Hard to shift on Hard Acceleration?
02-22-2008, 06:49 AM
#1
Why is it Hard to shift on Hard Acceleration? Just as title says. Under normal driving conditions shifts fine, but 5500 to 6000 rpms diffrent story. I did drill mod, new slave cylinder, new cluth about 12,000 miles on it. New tranny fluid dextron. I cannot figure it out? any advice would help thanks. Car has 71,300 miles on it
02-22-2008, 09:20 AM
#3
Give the clutch test a shot to see if it's disengaging properly.
- Dead stop on a flat, level surface with nothing in front of you
- Clutch pedal to the floor
- Shifter in first gear with clutch pedal still to the floor
- Rev up your car to about 6000 and see if it starts moving forward at all
If it starts moving at all, then your clutch is not disengaging properly. I'm going through the same issue right now, only Spec and the tranny shop I've been speaking with have no idea what it could possibly be because I've already replaced everything they told me to and even installed an adjustable master. I'm probably going to end up pulling it out and buying a new clutch, most likely a Textralia or something like that if I can't figure it out soon. Don't want to miss out on any racing this year.
- Dead stop on a flat, level surface with nothing in front of you
- Clutch pedal to the floor
- Shifter in first gear with clutch pedal still to the floor
- Rev up your car to about 6000 and see if it starts moving forward at all
If it starts moving at all, then your clutch is not disengaging properly. I'm going through the same issue right now, only Spec and the tranny shop I've been speaking with have no idea what it could possibly be because I've already replaced everything they told me to and even installed an adjustable master. I'm probably going to end up pulling it out and buying a new clutch, most likely a Textralia or something like that if I can't figure it out soon. Don't want to miss out on any racing this year.
02-22-2008, 10:14 AM
#4
Give the clutch test a shot to see if it's disengaging properly.
- Dead stop on a flat, level surface with nothing in front of you
- Clutch pedal to the floor
- Shifter in first gear with clutch pedal still to the floor
- Rev up your car to about 6000 and see if it starts moving forward at all
If it starts moving at all, then your clutch is not disengaging properly. I'm going through the same issue right now, only Spec and the tranny shop I've been speaking with have no idea what it could possibly be because I've already replaced everything they told me to and even installed an adjustable master. I'm probably going to end up pulling it out and buying a new clutch, most likely a Textralia or something like that if I can't figure it out soon. Don't want to miss out on any racing this year.
- Dead stop on a flat, level surface with nothing in front of you
- Clutch pedal to the floor
- Shifter in first gear with clutch pedal still to the floor
- Rev up your car to about 6000 and see if it starts moving forward at all
If it starts moving at all, then your clutch is not disengaging properly. I'm going through the same issue right now, only Spec and the tranny shop I've been speaking with have no idea what it could possibly be because I've already replaced everything they told me to and even installed an adjustable master. I'm probably going to end up pulling it out and buying a new clutch, most likely a Textralia or something like that if I can't figure it out soon. Don't want to miss out on any racing this year.
02-23-2008, 09:10 AM
#7
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Just as title says. Under normal driving conditions shifts fine, but 5500 to 6000 rpms diffrent story. I did drill mod, new slave cylinder, new cluth about 12,000 miles on it. New tranny fluid dextron. I cannot figure it out? any advice would help thanks. Car has 71,300 miles on it
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02-24-2008, 06:14 PM
#8
Give the clutch test a shot to see if it's disengaging properly.
- Dead stop on a flat, level surface with nothing in front of you
- Clutch pedal to the floor
- Shifter in first gear with clutch pedal still to the floor
- Rev up your car to about 6000 and see if it starts moving forward at all
If it starts moving at all, then your clutch is not disengaging properly. I'm going through the same issue right now, only Spec and the tranny shop I've been speaking with have no idea what it could possibly be because I've already replaced everything they told me to and even installed an adjustable master. I'm probably going to end up pulling it out and buying a new clutch, most likely a Textralia or something like that if I can't figure it out soon. Don't want to miss out on any racing this year.
- Dead stop on a flat, level surface with nothing in front of you
- Clutch pedal to the floor
- Shifter in first gear with clutch pedal still to the floor
- Rev up your car to about 6000 and see if it starts moving forward at all
If it starts moving at all, then your clutch is not disengaging properly. I'm going through the same issue right now, only Spec and the tranny shop I've been speaking with have no idea what it could possibly be because I've already replaced everything they told me to and even installed an adjustable master. I'm probably going to end up pulling it out and buying a new clutch, most likely a Textralia or something like that if I can't figure it out soon. Don't want to miss out on any racing this year.
02-25-2008, 02:54 PM
#13
Flush your clutch fluid since it has gotten hot and it might be breaking down. Since your car has long tubes, make sure that the steel braided line is behind the heat shield for as long as possible there should be one that follows the floor board as it turns into the firewall. Since you have longtubes I would recomend that you also wrap the steel braided line to protect it from the extra heat generated by the headers. If that doesn't work try a 01+ master cylinder or shim the throw out bearing/slave assembly. That should fix your clutch problem as far as disengaging goes.
As far as hard shifts obviously your clutch problem is causing this and IS hurting your transmission I recommend that you dont beat on it until the clutch is working properly or your syncros and shiftforks are going to be toast! Also go down to the GM dealership and buy some GM syncromesh that stuff is awesome and will make a transmission with worn sycros shift like it is new. With 71k miles it is very possible that the syncros and shift forks are worn especially if it has been driven hard. You might look into having it freshened up now while it is still cheap. If you dont have the money the syncromesh will give you a little more life and a lot less iritation from missed shifts, but plan on having it worked on.
As far as hard shifts obviously your clutch problem is causing this and IS hurting your transmission I recommend that you dont beat on it until the clutch is working properly or your syncros and shiftforks are going to be toast! Also go down to the GM dealership and buy some GM syncromesh that stuff is awesome and will make a transmission with worn sycros shift like it is new. With 71k miles it is very possible that the syncros and shift forks are worn especially if it has been driven hard. You might look into having it freshened up now while it is still cheap. If you dont have the money the syncromesh will give you a little more life and a lot less iritation from missed shifts, but plan on having it worked on.
Last edited by Preston99WS6; 02-25-2008 at 03:00 PM.
02-25-2008, 02:58 PM
#14
Our spec was like that. Installing an adjustible master fixed all of our problems..... For a little while.
We have a Spec 2+ and it slipped on hard launches.....Looking at getting it replaced now. Unfortunately at this point it is hard for me to recomend Spec at this time...
We have a Spec 2+ and it slipped on hard launches.....Looking at getting it replaced now. Unfortunately at this point it is hard for me to recomend Spec at this time...
02-26-2008, 10:34 AM
#19
The shim is included in all of our kits (it is shipped inside the plastic bag with the warranty and break-in information). It is used to raise the engagement/release point and should be installed on all F-body cars. If you haven't installed it then this is likely your problem.
Without the shim the engagement/release point will be low as a result of improper bearing spacing. The shim is bolted in behind the slave-cylinder and it effectively lengthens the bearing's throw. If you need these they are available for purchase through any of our dealers (though the part will likely drop-ship from us). Let me know if you all have any further questions. Thanks!
Without the shim the engagement/release point will be low as a result of improper bearing spacing. The shim is bolted in behind the slave-cylinder and it effectively lengthens the bearing's throw. If you need these they are available for purchase through any of our dealers (though the part will likely drop-ship from us). Let me know if you all have any further questions. Thanks!