SPEC stage 3? or stage 3+?
#1
SPEC stage 3? or stage 3+?
I've got 555 RWTQ, in my Z28 in my sig. I have the SPEC 3 and love it, but its time for a new clutch and was wondering if the stage 3 was really enough? Also, I have heard the 3+ was great to drive (better than just the stage 3), can anyone vouch for that?
SPEC's website quote's the stage 3 at 762, and the 3+ at 845. My clutch is about 2-3 years old, and I thought my stage 3 was much less than that when I got it?
Any info, or opinions weclomed.
NOTE* If the stage 3 would really work, its about $150 cheeper, and I would like to save money here if it will be needles for something I don't necissarily need.
*EDIT as of 9-14-08* This thread came about when I thought the clutch was done due to a buddy doing a burnout with slicks outside of the burnout box at the track, and the clutch "feeling odd". After letting it cool down, and taking it easy for the trip home and weeks after, I now understand that the clutch is actually still holding up (and pretty strong at that). I'm not saying it will continue to hold repeated slick runs, however it hooks on the street hard with DR's, and have been beating the snot out of it since the original post with no issues at all!
SPEC's website quote's the stage 3 at 762, and the 3+ at 845. My clutch is about 2-3 years old, and I thought my stage 3 was much less than that when I got it?
Any info, or opinions weclomed.
NOTE* If the stage 3 would really work, its about $150 cheeper, and I would like to save money here if it will be needles for something I don't necissarily need.
*EDIT as of 9-14-08* This thread came about when I thought the clutch was done due to a buddy doing a burnout with slicks outside of the burnout box at the track, and the clutch "feeling odd". After letting it cool down, and taking it easy for the trip home and weeks after, I now understand that the clutch is actually still holding up (and pretty strong at that). I'm not saying it will continue to hold repeated slick runs, however it hooks on the street hard with DR's, and have been beating the snot out of it since the original post with no issues at all!
Last edited by CALL911; 09-14-2008 at 02:36 PM.
#5
Well, their break in period is at least 500 in town miles with no WOT, so that may be a reason it is wearing pre-maturely.
Mine is a street car, but it also sees the track with its 614 RWHP and 555 RWTQ with slicks about a half dozen times a year. I want the clutch that will take that abuse and not wear out quickly for me, but I also don't want a clutch that is overkill for my car (mostly I don't want to spend the extra $ if I don't really need to, but if I need to for the proper clutch I will).
Mine is a street car, but it also sees the track with its 614 RWHP and 555 RWTQ with slicks about a half dozen times a year. I want the clutch that will take that abuse and not wear out quickly for me, but I also don't want a clutch that is overkill for my car (mostly I don't want to spend the extra $ if I don't really need to, but if I need to for the proper clutch I will).
#6
11 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
I say since you do take it to the track just spend the extra on the spec 3+ for peace of mind. I think in the long run you will be more happy with it. The difference is about 100$ or so from EPP I think.
Also, where in Indiana are you located? I want to know this so if I see a LT1 Z28 like yours I steer clear of it lol.
Also, where in Indiana are you located? I want to know this so if I see a LT1 Z28 like yours I steer clear of it lol.
#7
I'm in between EPP's location in Columbia City, and Ft. Wayne (about 45 minutes southeast of Plymouth).
Well I emailed SPEC last night, and talked to them today on the phone. When I spoke with their tech on the phone, he seemed more concerned with telling me that my driving habits, and something wrong with the clutch install, or something in my car like the flywheel could've caused it to go out this early. I really just wanted to know if the stage 3 was good enough for my car, or if I needed to go to a 3+. The email I recieved was much more to the point. Apparently SPEC as of 2007 re-did their clutches, and the stage 3 is now way overkill for my car, and should be much more durable than the one I had. The difference is actually about $150, so I'll probably just go with what I need instead of going WAY overkill and getting a stage 3+.
Getting a 3+ wouldn't really make the clutch last any longer than a stage 3 would unless the stage 3 I got was under-rated for my power level. This is the info I needed. I am posting this up so anyone else who may be in the same delima has some facts now.
Well I emailed SPEC last night, and talked to them today on the phone. When I spoke with their tech on the phone, he seemed more concerned with telling me that my driving habits, and something wrong with the clutch install, or something in my car like the flywheel could've caused it to go out this early. I really just wanted to know if the stage 3 was good enough for my car, or if I needed to go to a 3+. The email I recieved was much more to the point. Apparently SPEC as of 2007 re-did their clutches, and the stage 3 is now way overkill for my car, and should be much more durable than the one I had. The difference is actually about $150, so I'll probably just go with what I need instead of going WAY overkill and getting a stage 3+.
Getting a 3+ wouldn't really make the clutch last any longer than a stage 3 would unless the stage 3 I got was under-rated for my power level. This is the info I needed. I am posting this up so anyone else who may be in the same delima has some facts now.
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#12
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
I understand the money thing and what they can do, But in the same respect the bad one you may get may cost you twice as much in the end. I have heard better things on the Spec 3 + so thats where Id go if it had to be spec. I just have a bitter taste in my mouth when it comes to Spec in general.
#13
I understand the money thing and what they can do, But in the same respect the bad one you may get may cost you twice as much in the end. I have heard better things on the Spec 3 + so thats where Id go if it had to be spec. I just have a bitter taste in my mouth when it comes to Spec in general.
#14
TECH Fanatic
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Maybe you did not read my previous post, I explained why I chimed in with an opinion against the spec all together, than got back on your subject when I said I have heard better things from the 3+ as opposed to the 3. Im not here to hack up a thread that can be more useful if talked about clutches, not arguing.
#15
But you still are not understanding that I don't care about peoples opinions on SPEC clutches here, or idea's on different clutches to use for my car other than the 3 or 3+. If I did care, the thread would've been titled "what clutch should I get?", or "is buying a SPEC clutch a good idea?".
On the other topic, I have also heard people say the 3+ is better both power wise and driveability wise than the stage 3, however after talking to SPEC's tech's it seems as though their clutches have newly been updated, and hold more power for even longer, and the stage 3 will be overkill and then some for me. My mind is already made up on the stage 3.
On the other topic, I have also heard people say the 3+ is better both power wise and driveability wise than the stage 3, however after talking to SPEC's tech's it seems as though their clutches have newly been updated, and hold more power for even longer, and the stage 3 will be overkill and then some for me. My mind is already made up on the stage 3.
#17
"This latest version is well proven at 760 ft lbs and is leaps and bounds
beyond the 2005 version. The latest units (which began production in late
2006/early 2007) has a 360 degree cnc pivot pressure ring. Drivability is
still good, but they are simply much stronger and offer extended wear life."
Dave Norton
#18
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Yes he did. Here's the email I received on the new SPEC stage 3;
"This latest version is well proven at 760 ft lbs and is leaps and bounds
beyond the 2005 version. The latest units (which began production in late
2006/early 2007) has a 360 degree cnc pivot pressure ring. Drivability is
still good, but they are simply much stronger and offer extended wear life."
Dave Norton
"This latest version is well proven at 760 ft lbs and is leaps and bounds
beyond the 2005 version. The latest units (which began production in late
2006/early 2007) has a 360 degree cnc pivot pressure ring. Drivability is
still good, but they are simply much stronger and offer extended wear life."
Dave Norton
#19
Guys, I have been out of the office this week and, having checked the forums, I wanted to provide a little info. The stage 3 and stage 3+ will be fine for you. Stage 3+ will provide more capacity and drivability but seeing as how you never really had any issues with the stage 3 you are currently using it would be fine to go with another stage 3. Based on the info you provided, you won't overpower either of them. Keep in mind that a stage 3 will likely chatter more initialy...but even it will smooth out as break-in is acheived. Either way...you will be fine. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks and have a good weekend!
#20
Guys, I have been out of the office this week and, having checked the forums, I wanted to provide a little info. The stage 3 and stage 3+ will be fine for you. Stage 3+ will provide more capacity and drivability but seeing as how you never really had any issues with the stage 3 you are currently using it would be fine to go with another stage 3. Based on the info you provided, you won't overpower either of them. Keep in mind that a stage 3 will likely chatter more initialy...but even it will smooth out as break-in is acheived. Either way...you will be fine. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks and have a good weekend!