Installing a bleeder line by yourself & without removing the transmission!!!
08-29-2008, 01:04 PM
#1
Installing a bleeder line by yourself & without removing the transmission!!! Big thanks to Chris (I1ULUZ) who was a big help via email and on the phone. The first 3 pictures along with the instruction are from him. He has had this setup on his car and on Jason’s (JDM74) for quite a while now. A local fittings shop helped modify the bleeder and fabricate the line. I paid just under $60 for the work and materials. Except for turning the 4 screws for the metal cover for the access hole in the tunnel I installed everything and bled the clutch BY MYSELF.
Attachment 1
This is the bleed fitting out of the car, on the right side you have to have them braze up that small hole on the side and lop off the very end so it is open all the way through and will always be open. Braze an AN-4 male fitting on to the other end, the end that sticks out of the bell housing.
Attachment 2
This picture shows how you go from out of the bleeder into the line, you will need a 90* and a 45* AN-4 fittings.
Attachment 3
Have him make you an AN-4 line that is 48 inches long. On the other end you will need a male/male coupler and a cap. Unless they can put a male end on the hose then you just need a cap. You do NOT want a male cap that screws into the female fitting on the hose.
Attachment 1
This is the bleed fitting out of the car, on the right side you have to have them braze up that small hole on the side and lop off the very end so it is open all the way through and will always be open. Braze an AN-4 male fitting on to the other end, the end that sticks out of the bell housing.
Attachment 2
This picture shows how you go from out of the bleeder into the line, you will need a 90* and a 45* AN-4 fittings.
Attachment 3
Have him make you an AN-4 line that is 48 inches long. On the other end you will need a male/male coupler and a cap. Unless they can put a male end on the hose then you just need a cap. You do NOT want a male cap that screws into the female fitting on the hose.
08-29-2008, 01:09 PM
#2
Attachment 1
You access the bleeder by cutting the tunnel. I used a screw driver as a punch from underneath the car to mark the area that needed to be cut out. I used a Dremel and some patience cutting the area. When removing the bleeder the fluid may flow so be carful none gets in the car!!! None did when I pulled mine out more than likely because I pulled the MC to do the drill mod. Use an 11mm deep well to pull the bleeder and be careful not to drop it in the bell housing! Lefty loosey.
Attacment 2
Here is the new bleeder line connected to the modified bleeder. The hose on the braided line was placed near the heat shield area under the car.
Attachment 3
Here it is installed. Put the bleeder in separate. There is a hole clear through the bleeder now so I used a 10” section of coat hanger to guide it back to the SC and get the threads started. Again you don’t want to drop it in the bell housing while reinstalling it. Place the fittings on the line (the 45* followed by the 90*) and make them snug. You may have to place the fittings so that they clear the tunnel and the transmission to get the line up along the firewall. I then connected the AN 90* to the AN male fitting that was brazed on to the bleeder. I was able to get an open end wrench (9/16” I think) on it to tighten. Do not over tighten! AN fittings do not require any type of thread sealer and work very well by getting them snug.
You access the bleeder by cutting the tunnel. I used a screw driver as a punch from underneath the car to mark the area that needed to be cut out. I used a Dremel and some patience cutting the area. When removing the bleeder the fluid may flow so be carful none gets in the car!!! None did when I pulled mine out more than likely because I pulled the MC to do the drill mod. Use an 11mm deep well to pull the bleeder and be careful not to drop it in the bell housing! Lefty loosey.
Attacment 2
Here is the new bleeder line connected to the modified bleeder. The hose on the braided line was placed near the heat shield area under the car.
Attachment 3
Here it is installed. Put the bleeder in separate. There is a hole clear through the bleeder now so I used a 10” section of coat hanger to guide it back to the SC and get the threads started. Again you don’t want to drop it in the bell housing while reinstalling it. Place the fittings on the line (the 45* followed by the 90*) and make them snug. You may have to place the fittings so that they clear the tunnel and the transmission to get the line up along the firewall. I then connected the AN 90* to the AN male fitting that was brazed on to the bleeder. I was able to get an open end wrench (9/16” I think) on it to tighten. Do not over tighten! AN fittings do not require any type of thread sealer and work very well by getting them snug.
Last edited by ssgunny; 08-29-2008 at 01:14 PM.
08-29-2008, 01:12 PM
#3
Attachment 1
Not a very good picture but here is one from below. Notice how the fittings follow the lines of the transmission.
Attachmnet 2
This the access hole closed up. I used a piece of galvanized steel that is used to cover electrical boxes. I drilled the screw holes in the tunnel and then taped the piece of steel from the under side to mark the hole locations. I removed it and drill it out. I painted everything and then used some black silicone around the perimeter of the steel piece to keep weather out. The only physical help I had the whole project was to have someone put the screws in while I held the piece of steel from underneath.
Attachment 3
Here is the line in the engine bay. Since my system had very little fluid I started off with uncapping the end and sticking it an empty water bottle that had a little brake fluid in it. Keep the reservoir full between pumps till fluid starts to fill the bottle. You can do this as long as you like to clean out the system. Once you are done move the end of the line to the reservoir and pump till the there are no bubbles. Remove and cap the end of the line while the pedal is to the floor and you are done. The pedal should be stiff and functional.
Not a very good picture but here is one from below. Notice how the fittings follow the lines of the transmission.
Attachmnet 2
This the access hole closed up. I used a piece of galvanized steel that is used to cover electrical boxes. I drilled the screw holes in the tunnel and then taped the piece of steel from the under side to mark the hole locations. I removed it and drill it out. I painted everything and then used some black silicone around the perimeter of the steel piece to keep weather out. The only physical help I had the whole project was to have someone put the screws in while I held the piece of steel from underneath.
Attachment 3
Here is the line in the engine bay. Since my system had very little fluid I started off with uncapping the end and sticking it an empty water bottle that had a little brake fluid in it. Keep the reservoir full between pumps till fluid starts to fill the bottle. You can do this as long as you like to clean out the system. Once you are done move the end of the line to the reservoir and pump till the there are no bubbles. Remove and cap the end of the line while the pedal is to the floor and you are done. The pedal should be stiff and functional.
08-29-2008, 01:24 PM
#4
With all that said take your time with the process. My car is a garage queen so I was able to leave it till I could get back to it. Although I was able to do this myself it will go easier with someone elses assistance.
I have never bled a clutch before in my life let alone remove the MC so it is not an impossible task. Especailly since I was able to do it all without any physical help (except for the plate screws). I followed the instruction on install university for the drill mod and then the guidance Chris gave to do his mod. If you try it I hope it turns out as well for you as it did for me.
I have never bled a clutch before in my life let alone remove the MC so it is not an impossible task. Especailly since I was able to do it all without any physical help (except for the plate screws). I followed the instruction on install university for the drill mod and then the guidance Chris gave to do his mod. If you try it I hope it turns out as well for you as it did for me.
01-15-2009, 09:45 PM
#5
I can't believe this hasn't been talked about yet. I just came across it looking for some better bleeding methods. How is this working for you? Any problems with leaks? Nice writeup and it seems like a really good idea for those of us that want a remote bleeder but don't have a need to pull the tranny again.
01-17-2009, 12:02 PM
#6
Back up. Anybody see a problem with making one of these? I have an old OEM bleeder and thinking about welding on a male -4 AN steel fitting to the end of it and modify the bleeder like ssgunny did so it's always open. And then buy a pre-made remote bleeder like Tick sells and remove the special fitting from the hose that attaches to the slave and screw the hose directly onto the male fitting welded onto the my bleeder. I really don't want to pull the tranny right now and looking for a better way to do a one person clutch bleed without using a mighty vac anymore. Anybody know if the hose end fittings on Tick's remote bleeder are -4 AN? Thoughts?
01-17-2009, 01:47 PM
#7
Why did you mount the end of the bleeder into the engine bay? I have seen it done before but I plan on mounting mine under the car. Do you actually bleed it from there, it seems like it would make a mess.
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01-17-2009, 01:58 PM
#8
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Since u cut a hole in the trans tunnel you can already bleed the clutch by YOURSELF right there. Its not that hard to get an extension and socket then open and close the bleeder valve. Nice write up though I just wouldn't see this necessary if you already cut a hole in ur trans tunnel and have easy access to the bleeder already.
01-17-2009, 04:05 PM
#9
I can't believe this hasn't been talked about yet. I just came across it looking for some better bleeding methods. How is this working for you? Any problems with leaks? Nice writeup and it seems like a really good idea for those of us that want a remote bleeder but don't have a need to pull the tranny again.
I think that I said 2 others have done this (they did it while the tranny was out) so didn't have to cut the tunnel. They have had it on their cars for several years now.
The AN fittings are great and no leaks on any of our cars. When they are snug they are fine so do not overtighten them.
Back up. Anybody see a problem with making one of these? I have an old OEM bleeder and thinking about welding on a male -4 AN steel fitting to the end of it and modify the bleeder like ssgunny did so it's always open. And then buy a pre-made remote bleeder like Tick sells and remove the special fitting from the hose that attaches to the slave and screw the hose directly onto the male fitting welded onto the my bleeder. I really don't want to pull the tranny right now and looking for a better way to do a one person clutch bleed without using a mighty vac anymore. Anybody know if the hose end fittings on Tick's remote bleeder are -4 AN? Thoughts?
Last edited by ssgunny; 01-17-2009 at 09:25 PM.
01-17-2009, 04:19 PM
#10
It was pointed out to me also:
Plus the air will go to the highest point in the system which is the bleeder line vice the slave.
Last edited by ssgunny; 01-17-2009 at 09:22 PM.
01-17-2009, 04:25 PM
#11
Since u cut a hole in the trans tunnel you can already bleed the clutch by YOURSELF right there. Its not that hard to get an extension and socket then open and close the bleeder valve. Nice write up though I just wouldn't see this necessary if you already cut a hole in ur trans tunnel and have easy access to the bleeder already.
Last edited by ssgunny; 01-17-2009 at 04:36 PM.
01-17-2009, 05:28 PM
#12
I'm not sure why this hasn't been attempted by more people either or at least discussed. The big issue I hear with some of the ready made remote bleeders is finding a source for the odd fitting on the slave to seal properly. Well, hell, there is already the correct seal on the end of the stock bleeder, why not make use of it. You're right, I do like the idea of the 45* and 90* fittings to keep the bends at a minimum, but not crazy about all the joints that it adds and the potential for possible leaks. Hopefully you are correct on the sealing abilities of the AN fittings. I for one really appreciate you taking the time to do this and for posting it for the rest of us to see. I'm going to try it in some form or another and will let you know how it comes out. Thanks for the ideas on how to do this without pulling the tranny....again. 
Wow, someone replied. I thought I would have gotten more of a response but that is what I get for thinking.
I think that I said 2 others have done this (they did it while the tranny was out) so didn't have to cut the tunnel. They have had it on their cars for several years now.
The AN fittings are great and no leaks on any of our cars. When they are snug they are fine so do not overtighten them.
I am not sure about the Tick line but if it does work out you more than likely will need the 90* and 45* AN fittings also so the line won't have to make a serious bend of the bleeder and possibly rub against the tunnel.
I think that I said 2 others have done this (they did it while the tranny was out) so didn't have to cut the tunnel. They have had it on their cars for several years now.
The AN fittings are great and no leaks on any of our cars. When they are snug they are fine so do not overtighten them.
I am not sure about the Tick line but if it does work out you more than likely will need the 90* and 45* AN fittings also so the line won't have to make a serious bend of the bleeder and possibly rub against the tunnel.
01-17-2009, 08:32 PM
#13
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True more fittings there are in the system more chance of a leak, but if the fittings are tighten correctly they should not leak. Most of the time when one is leaking it has been over tighten and it's made of aluminum. The fittings that he used are industrial fittings so they are made of steel and much more forgiving than aluminum. Considering AN fittings have been around 60+ years I would think they work well enough for cars.
01-17-2009, 11:31 PM
#14
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this has been talked about before actually... someone, cant remember the member, used to make something identical to this and sold it to members... here it is, not sure if hes still doing it though.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...w-sponsor.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...w-sponsor.html
01-18-2009, 01:43 PM
#16
I'm not sure why this hasn't been attempted by more people either or at least discussed. The big issue I hear with some of the ready made remote bleeders is finding a source for the odd fitting on the slave to seal properly. Well, hell, there is already the correct seal on the end of the stock bleeder, why not make use of it. You're right, I do like the idea of the 45* and 90* fittings to keep the bends at a minimum, but not crazy about all the joints that it adds and the potential for possible leaks. Hopefully you are correct on the sealing abilities of the AN fittings. I for one really appreciate you taking the time to do this and for posting it for the rest of us to see. I'm going to try it in some form or another and will let you know how it comes out. Thanks for the ideas on how to do this without pulling the tranny....again.
I was checking this area regularly when I did post this thread but not so much lately. I only saw that it had some posts on it when I did a search on a thread I started about the AIR system solenoid. Good luck on your mod and PM me with any questions if you post and don't hear from me.
01-22-2009, 02:19 PM
#17
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I like this idea. I'm going to be putting in a new 3-disc, 7.25" QuarterMaster clutch in May (after the race season is over). I believe I'll take the time to do this. I've got a QM slave/TO bearing, so it already has AN fittings.
Good write up, and thanks!
Any ideas what the connection at the master cylinder is? I know that my new slave doesn't have that nifty quick-disconnect thing. I need to make a new line. Thanks!!
Good write up, and thanks!
Any ideas what the connection at the master cylinder is? I know that my new slave doesn't have that nifty quick-disconnect thing. I need to make a new line. Thanks!!
01-22-2009, 03:24 PM
#18
Very neat!
Anybody needing a Remote Bleeder, we offer our Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDBleeder Line for $49.99, it'll make the process a one man job. Check it out below:
http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...ulics/#bleeder
Anybody needing a Remote Bleeder, we offer our Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDBleeder Line for $49.99, it'll make the process a one man job. Check it out below:
http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...ulics/#bleeder
01-22-2009, 11:20 PM
#20
I have been searching to find out where I can order the long braided lines..Thanks to
>>http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...ulics/#bleeder.
I will order that one..
>>http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...ulics/#bleeder.
I will order that one..